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1966 Silver Shadow no start

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2.2K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  Jeff R 1  
A
#1 ·
Good morning all, a new problem has shown itself on this beast. We have started it just fine, taken it around the block to get it up to temperature to be able to check the trans fluid properly, parked it, came out 5 or 10 minutes later to move it and nothing, no cranking, just a click when putting key into run position. I have power, battery seems good. If I let it sit for 2 or 3 hours to cool down it starts right up again. Could the starter or some relay be acting up only when the car is hot?

On a side note, are the door panels aluminum on this car? I was taking a magnet around the car to check for bondo and the magnet won't stick to the outer door panels.

Thanks again
 
#9 ·
I have had this very same issue with my 77SSII. Went through all kinds of hell trying to figure this out. In my case.. It turned out the the transmission actuator was causing the problem. In addition your starter solenoid and or starter relay could be going out.
 
#4 ·
Let me paraphrase your question. The motor turns over, but does not fire. Have a spare coil and rotor. Substitute one at a time. Start with the rotor since it is the easiest.
 
D
#8 ·
This could be the starter motor, starter solenoid, starter relay or a wiring problem. When this intermittent clicking of the starter motor occurred a few years ago on my car I eventually tracked the cause down to a previous owner who had wired the starter solenoid directly to the switchbox, bypassing the starter relay. It never ceases to amaze me how some owners will bodge these cars for the sake of a few bucks. I was lucky, when I fitted a new starter relay I found the terminal in the switchbox had not been damaged. I then carried out the best solution and replaced the 44 year old starter motor i.e. replaced the whole lot for less than 300 bucks and have had hassle free starting ever since.
 
#10 ·
Being that the switch box showed no damage from the current flow (assuming you opened it up to check), RR probably made it heavy enough to take the amperage.
I've opened a number of failed Bosch relays and have seen burned and corroded contacts _ they're not made that well.
Maybe the RR ones are made better, or there is a Bosch specification that will handle the load.
From what I've seen here on the forum, they're just the run-of-the-mill relays that are in my 99 Mazda truck.
 
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