Got a little side tracked with life over the last week (including fixing my daughter's Camaro). Got a couple of days off and planning on getting back to it tomorrow. Your idea of checking the 27 socket is definitely the first think I'll be tackling. From there the ERS will be the next thing to check. The Cranking Interlock Relay is defo working and clicking happily in there, but no power is flowing from this (through the ERS) to energize the Starter Inhibitor Relay. I'm kind of thinking that if the ERS was fine then the SI Relay would still click because it would be energized. Will report back soon!What's happening? Fixed it yet?👍😊
I took the relay out, connected it the battery (it clicked) and checked resistance between 87 and 30 (which was 0). Hopefully that means it's okay. I swapped it out with another one as a secondary test, but ended up with the same result.So if a relay is clicking, then the relay is faulty on it's secondary circuit (contacts are shot internally), and/or the the source on the secondary circuit has no voltage.
Have you actually checked the relay for continuity when it's switched of and on ?
Just because a relay clicks doesn't mean to say that it isn't faulty.
Because the "key" turn on relay, which you shortened directly. The engine will not start without ignition powered up, what do other "key" circuit, but what is ommitable by shortening some other relays too. It is why people are using alarms and immobilizers.1. Anyone know why the car would crank even without the key in? Shouldn't the circuit be open until the key is turned to start?
Ignore me folks. I unscrewed the ERS from its mount, flipped it around and a little leverage with a screwdriver did the job. Maybe some complete amateur like me will find this useful one day if they ever read this.Looks like we're down to the two final suspects - gearchange actuator (and associated microswitches) or the Engine Running Sensor. I got a bit sidetracked after finding the Procedure in TSD4737 for testing the ERS. Turns out my interpretation of the starting circuit was slightly incorrect once I read this section, meaning the ERS could be a front runner here since the fuel pump isn't buzzing. I've got the fuse panel off and can get to the loom to disconnect it, but can't the darn thing disconnected despite a few hours of squirming around back there (yes, I have opened the fish hook locks on each side...) . Does anyone know if there is some RR special technique involved here (e.g. are the orange or yellow tabs some kind of lock?).
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Sorry for the amateur hour questions here folks.
Still hunting for Loom 27 Mike, but I'll find it eventually!