Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, a few months into ownership and i am over the moon of course. My 1973 Silver Shadow was purchased with a few 'issues', wipers/windows to name a few, but like i said in a previous post I used to work on these so am not really phased..

I decided to tackle the window issue i was having. Initially, the left front window didn't work at all. After initial checks on fuses/relay (reset etc), i removed the left front door panel and checked the switches and wiring. All appeared to be in order, so i re-fitted the door panel and removed the right front one to check the master switch. It was obvious that someone had been in there before as the water membrane was actually missing!

Checked all the switches and all appeared OK, but the left front window mysteriously began to work? I concluded that as i had been messing around in the door i must have disturbed a connection somewhere, so removed the master switch pack to check. What i found in there beggared belief really. Someone had clearly been looking at this issue before, and there was a piece of bare copper core wire (looked like standard household 1mm earth) linking the power supply from the front right switch to the front left switch, and it had just been 'poked' into the standard lucar connectors!

Fire hazard removed (!) I checked the system again, but it was all working and OK at that point, so, scratching my head as to why someone had bodged this up in this way, I reluctantly replaced the switch/panel and all was well...at least for a week, when the front right window now decided it would pack up.....

So, removed drivers door panel and switch pack again, and checked power to the offending switch. what should have been battery voltage was in fact about 6 volts. A quick check of the wiring diagram revealed that the door harnesses went to a block connector behind the kick panel adjacent to the throttle pedal, so, whipped that panel off and traced the wiring to a block connector which when pulled apart revealed some green damp gunge in the connector itself, Bingo! There are 4 block connectors there so i duly pulled all of them apart and cleaned out connectors, re-connected using a small amount of white Vaseline, then checked the switch in the door which had a healthy battery voltage now. All working so alls well that ends well.

That was 3 weeks ago, and all was indeed well, until Monday.......

Took the car to a local show, it was fairly warm, so i decided to drop all the windows when parked. Bloody passengers side front window not working again!!

Not working today so i decided to have another look...

Pulled the door panel on the left front and removed the switch to check voltage etc, when noticed all of a sudden it started working again?

Tried it from the drivers side, and again passengers side, even took it for a quick run, all ok???

So, screwed the switch back in, tested again, all good.

Replaced door panel and tested again, all good.

Then, re-fitted the chrome escutcheon and tested, and noticed that the escutcheon was very, very close to the switch button, infact it was touching it. I operated the switch a few times, then after about 4 up and downs i noticed the escutcheon was holding the switch in the 'up' position! That would of course account for why the passengers front window would not operate intermittently from the drivers master switch, as when it stuck, it was impossible to send it down from the drivers side!

So, problem solved, i will sleep happier tonight.

Friday, i plan to change the hydraulic fluid and bleed the system through to try to cure the rear suspension 'squeak'. Ive set aside a day, wish me luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for this. Well, todays efforts were indeed not in vain. I removed the lid of the reservoir and the baffles. There was a fair amount of detritus in the bottom, considering i cleaned it out only a month ago, so i syringed all the fluid out and then started the engine for about 10 seconds to clear the return lines from the pumps, when i could hear the pumps sucking i was happy all the old fluid was out. I removed the sight glasses and cleaned out and polished the glass, then re-fitted. The level sensor floats are missing from mine as i mentioned in a previous post, and upon inspection i noticed that someone had removed the wires from the reed switches, so i re-connected them and ran a small horse shoe magnet up and down the switches while a friend watched the low fluid light. Both actually work so i now need to find some new floats!

Some oaf had actually pushed a screwdriver through the large filter element on the top, so i had ordered some SS 304 wire mesh (250 grade) from Amazon, and using the old one as a template made a new filter.

Filled the reservoir with fresh RR363 and bled the rear low pressure circuit first, then the rear high pressure circuit, then the rear suspension. Now the squawking rear suspension, along with the fact the fluid was filthy and i think incorrect (possibly DOT4) was the main reason for the flush through, and i wasn't overly surprised when i got loads of air from the right hand suspension bleed nipple, but i could get absolutely nothing out of the left hand one, so i suspect, as mentioned here, that the restrictor valve is possibly blocked, or an issue with the level sensor, but thats another problem for another day.

So, i hear you ask, did the bleed through cure the squawking? YES!!!!!

Tested the car afterwards, and there rear end was as quiet as church mouse, plus, the brake pedal when depressed feels much smoother, it felt kind of 'clickey' before when pressed quickly, but it literally feels/drives a whole lot better!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,503 Posts
Did you remove the 2 hex-topped filters at the bottom of the tank? This is a must, since any tear will allow debris to be pulled thru the system by the pumps. You need a 1" socket
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,503 Posts
Here is a link to a multi-part series from Ronny Shaver. He explains the rebuild of the restrictor valves in this series. As you may know they are only part of the height system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi, yes i did. the low pressure one is ripped so ive put some material from an old pair of tights over the pipe, held on with a tie clip. I am going to repair the filters and have some stainless mesh but solder won't take to it, giving that one some thought...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like Ronnie Shavers videos, very easy to understand. Although he did state that they have been using DOT4 instead of RR363 for years without any issues, but i am using 363.

The restrictor valves in my car supply both levelling units and as fast up is working i suspect a blockage in the left levelling valve, the right one has clearly been off before (looks clean) but the left hasn't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,503 Posts
Why not do it the correct way once and for all with new filters? The soft material will likely degrade and get sucked into the brakes pumps...then you're in big trouble.Brake fluid does get warm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
HI Wraithman, thanks for your concerns, but I can’t get new filters at the moment over here! Spoke to flying spares and Intro cars and there is no stock, but they are apparently having some made, just got to wait, one of the downsides of owning a 50 year old rare(ish) car I guess!?

Yes I agree with you re not putting anything suspect over the HP intakes in the tank, but like I said the ‘makeshift filter’ is on the LP outlet, which is only going to the master cylinder and has no suction on it, so I’m happy that it won’t cause an issue!

thanks,

Steve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, an update on the 'windows saga'.

I was at the point where everything worked, so was relatively happy, I say relatively.....

I haven't opened the garage for about a week, and as today was a 'play' day decided id go have a fiddle with the car. Unlocked and sat in as normal. Started the car, and tried to open the windows. All windows operated except the drivers one, flicked the switch-thumped the panel-opened and closed the door, nothing.

The fault originally started as the front passengers window not working, but now it seems the problem is both fronts, can be either right or left? I reversed the car out, checked the thermal re-set on the unit under the dash (l/h/s), and it was OK. the drivers side kick panel is still off (as i wasn't entirely convinced that i'd found the problem) so i held the drivers side switch in the down position whilst wiggling the connectors under there, nothing.

Tried the other windows again and noticed that the passengers side window isn't working now as well!

So, it appears that the problem is;

Intermittent
Related to the front windows.

Any thoughts???

Thanks, Steve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Now i studied the wiring diagram today, and apparently on my car the motors rely on a switched earth to make them work, so that could be a good shout. I guess im looking for the front windows sharing a common ground...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,179 Posts
I think the common ground is near the bottom of the A-pillar behind the triangular carpet section to the right of the accelerator pedal but I'm not certain. I have a similar window issue but I haven't had time lately to complete a diagnosis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK, an update.

I looked at the block connectors at the r/h a post and the earth tag. All seemed OK but...

On closer inspection the male terminals in both blocks that go to the drivers door looked an odd colour. Did a continuity check and depending on where i put the probe i had continuity then didn't? The male spades looked to me to be very oxidised (brown/grey in colour), so I removed each terminal (individually, painstakingly slow work!), and removed the oxidisation film with wire wool, then checked continuity again, much, much better! I appear to have four working windows now, i'll keep you posted but feel much more confident now the problem is fixed!
Hand Finger Thumb Automotive tire Nail
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top