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Hello gentlemen,

I dislike being the newbie and I know how to search the forum :). So driver side window goes all the way down...then it won’t go back up. I was able to use my hand to kill the window back up and now it’s stuck down again...and both my rear windows won’t go down. The lights in the car do not dim when I am pressing the switches....any thoughts?

Kindly,
Stephen
 

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Hi Stephen
Seen this?
Mike
 

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Hi Mike,

Thank you very much my friend. I hope you and your family are healthy and safe.

Kindly,
Stephen
 

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You're welcome Stephen , for your rear windows check the position of the switch in the centre of the centre console ok, its to a child safety switch for the back windows ok
Cheers
Mike
 

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Curious to the grease you used. I was thinking about using red wheel bearing grease when I do mine but if something is better I’ll be using that.
 

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I think I used white lithium grease when I did mine a few years back. Red bearing grease would probably be fine too.
 

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Both my front windows went down happily but wouldn’t go up. I changed over the window switch in each and they work fine now. You could change just the micro switch but you’d have to confirm which type of microswitch it is. My 88 Spur has the micro switches with the little divot in them vs the flat ones a lot of shops sell. Worth spending the extra $20 and get the whole switch imo, as I bought both only to find out the microswitch was the wrong sort. If you buy the switch, it’ll come with the right microswitch built in.

(Assuming your problem is the same as mine was)
 

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I replaced all the micro switches for all switches and cleaned up what I could see and put grease on the chain. Still very slow going up so I know it’s needing to have the grease changed out in all the gears. I’ll do it when I start to refinish the wood sills. Gotta figure out why it suddenly started leaking fuel at or near the tank connection. Lost all my gas after I was smelling gas I figured it was one of my older cars. Looked underneath the rolls and there was a massive puddle. Drove it to the back forty to let it drain out since it was coming out quickly.
 

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Sometimes the problem with windows going upward is the result of old glass channels. They tend to bind and sometimes the window frame itself is not true. meaning the glass binds on the way up.
So why doesn't it bind when going down?.. Gravity and weight of the glass.
Another issue can be the "brake disc" that holds the window when it reaches a fully closed position. They prevent the window from dropping. They can drag and cause resistance and in reality not needed.
If you unfasten the glass from the "elevator" and move it manually up and down, you can check for binding.

I have worked on these issues, especially the electrical ones, and was stumped with a recent "slo up" condition when I unfastened the glass and sure enough, it was binding within the glass channel.
 

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Sometimes the problem with windows going upward is the result of old glass channels. They tend to bind and sometimes the window frame itself is not true. meaning the glass binds on the way up.
So why doesn't it bind when going down?.. Gravity and weight of the glass.
Another issue can be the "brake disc" that holds the window when it reaches a fully closed position. They prevent the window from dropping. They can drag and cause resistance and in reality not needed.
If you unfasten the glass from the "elevator" and move it manually up and down, you can check for binding.

I have worked on these issues, especially the electrical ones, and was stumped with a recent "slo up" condition when I unfastened the glass and sure enough, it was binding within the glass channel.
I did play with the front window up and down when the plastic wheel broke for the chain. So I will check that also as I go thru each one when I redo those wood sills.
 

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This might be worth a read also. It used to be up on the Australian RR site here, but looks like it may have moved. I've attached the PDF I downloaded a few months back before I fixed my SZ windows in case you can't get the link working.
 

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I did see on Roycenut that the actual window wiring becomes a great big resistor with age. He ran new heavy wires to the doors with relays in the doors to trigger their opening. Bit complicated for me but I have had my motors out and lubricated the bikes chains,guides etc, and it works quite well.I did once have the rubber cog wheel break and fixed it with a pin,helps to have the engine running high,Bit like my Azure roof.
The Conti has modern scissor style mechanism like BMW
 

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window wiring becomes a great big resistor with age.
It is shocking just how flimsy the wire that RR used for window motors was for a very long time. I've not seen what's in this particular model year, but a what's in the SYs I've dealt with is just "hair thin" and grossly inadequate to the task. I had a 1989 Deville where the wiring even to the window switches was of a much thicker gauge than what is run to the motors in these cars.

There was a period in the 1970s where Rolls-Royce Motorcars was on the brink of bankruptcy, and corners were being cut. Unfortunately, Crewe tended to keep things they designed in use for many, many years afterward to not only "maintain tradition" but avoid additional expense as well.

Richard Treacy's window lift improvements are only applicable up through the 1989 model year through chassis number 27998.

Silver Spur Window Lifts by Don Elliott is well-worth downloading and reading for anyone considering working on SZ era windows.
 

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I agree Brian, I thought they were just signal wires when I first saw them, no wonder the windows are slow!
The saying "spoiling the ship for a bucket of tar" comes to mind
Mike
 
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