[mikebentleyturbo2]

Did you read the link about boost pressures and why you only get 200mbar?

 

[The_Nuge]

Thanks!
I still have to read through it all on something with a bigger screen than a smartphone, but that's probably the info I'm looking for!
From the quick glance, it looks to me like my car might have a transient boost kit fitted?!
Cheers
Es

 

[The_Nuge]

Did you read the link about boost pressures and why you only get 200mbar?

Hi Mike,
If you mean Richard Treacy's article on the ECU driver not having enough juice to activate the solenoid properly, then yes!
I measured the voltage on mine and found it to be over 11V, so I'm assuming that the driver is OK.

Es

 

[The_Nuge]

The plastic valve is the same part as used on the early Saab 900 "APC" Turbo.

Part # 7517477
The entire boost regulation system was produced by the same company that supplied Saab

My valve leaks under pressure between the tan/yellow top cap and the brown body.

Plastic valve dIagnostic tips can be found on Saab forums

I plan on replacing mine with an all-metal aftermarket part in September.

Hi!
Where would youu get an all-metal solenoid?

Cheers

Es

 

[mikebentleyturbo2]

Thanks!
I still have to read through it all on something with a bigger screen than a smartphone, but that's probably the info I'm looking for!
From the quick glance, it looks to me like my car might have a transient boost kit fitted?!
Cheers
Es

Read the thread on there bringing it back , the part about knock sensors reducing boost. Probably your problem, it was on mine ok

 

[The_Nuge]

Thanks Mike!
That was on my to-do list!

BTW, I talked to one of my engine calibration colleagues, and he told me that standard knock sensors have a 0-5V output. If you want to check for knocking, you can feed the output from the sensor to your radio (using aux or a cassette adapter) and listen to the signal. Apparently it's quite easy to hear if the engine is knocking!

Cheers

Es

 

[mikebentleyturbo2]

I used an oscilloscope on the ECU, I had nothing from b bank sensor, it fell apart when I took it off!
Don't bother with the silly priced genuine part search substitute on Ebay ok

 

[The_Nuge]

Thanks Mike!
Do you have a part number that I could search for?

Cheers
Es

 

[mikebentleyturbo2]

Ue70135 ,but test yours first ok
My boost ECU is behind the l/h side/ flasher , yours may be different ,may just go to engine ecu but same sensors I think, whats your chassis number ,I'll check ok
Mike

 

[JR2]

Where would you get an all-metal solenoid?

Do you want to replace the plastic solenoid boost solenoid with a metal one or inquiring where to purchase a replacement all-metal transient boost solenoid?

 

[JR2]

Metal replacement for Saab plastic = AEM Boost Control Solenoid 30-2400 with is re-branded MAC 3 port Boost solenoid valve.
I have a MAC valve sitting my shelf that I had intended for another project. Might try 034906283J.

 

[The_Nuge]

Thanks JR!
I found a post on the Australian forum where the show how to dismantle and clean the solenoid, so I'll try that first. If it doesn't help, I'll get a metal one!

Mike, I've ordered new knock sensors - Valeo ones, used in Dacia Logans and hence cheap 😀

Cheers

Es

 

[detomaso]

Thanks JR!
I found a post on the Australian forum where the show how to dismantle and clean the solenoid, so I'll try that first. If it doesn't help, I'll get a metal one!

Mike, I've ordered new knock sensors - Valeo ones, used in Dacia Logans and hence cheap 😀

Cheers

Es

Hello Nuge - reading this thread with interest, I wondered if you could link me to the thread you mention here about cleaning your solenoid? I also have a 1991 that I am trying to 'get up to scratch'.

 

[The_Nuge]

Hi!

I found this posting on the Australian forum:Australian RR Forums: Boost Control – Turbocharged Cars – Bring It Back Up to Scratch
I haven't gotten around to doing it yet, but have it planned for in a couple of weeks!

Es

 

[detomaso]

Hey guys

I picked up my new gauge yesterday! I am planning on sticking it somewhere in the dash. It is a mechanical gauge so I just need to run the hose through the firewall (under the accelerator pedal?)

I am lucky to have the metal solenoid on my '91. Am I right in thinking I need to put the T connector hose on the hose coming out at the bottom rather than the one going off to the right?

Thanks!

 

[The_Nuge]

Excellent!
If you find a good place to route tube through the interior, please let me know.
I was planning on putting my gauge in the glove box, as I just plan on using it for the occasional check.

Cheers

Es

 

[The_Nuge]

Hi Detomaso,

I can't remember 100% which hose is the right one, but I think it's the one straight at the front. Follow the hose and line towards the turbo, you need the line that comes from roughly the center of the turbine (the silver part of the turbo).

P.S. do you also own a DeTomaso?

Cheers

Es

 

[mikebentleyturbo2]

Hi Paul
Disconnecting the waste gate also disconnects the knock control.
200mbar is the fallback boost when there's a fault ,600 mbar is when the dump valve is forced open by no control,500 mbar is about normal for 89 turbo r ok.
Mike
PS I don't know how much is "safe"

 

[detomaso]

Hi Detomaso,

I can't remember 100% which hose is the right one, but I think it's the one straight at the front. Follow the hose and line towards the turbo, you need the line that comes from roughly the center of the turbine (the silver part of the turbo).

P.S. do you also own a DeTomaso?

Cheers

Es

In my dreams! I really admire Mr DeTomaso himself - you just don't get car CEOs like this anymore.

On topic, I have been busy but am looking to fit my new boost gauge today. It looks very fiddly getting the vacuum line through the hole in the firewall where the pedal is but I'll give it a go.

 

[Jean7]

Fantastic picture, those genious have made the Automotive Story and Legend.