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I am trying to get a Shadow going after a long sleep. It starts and runs but won't change gears. I can manually move the transmission lever after disconnecting the rod from the actuator - so it seems that the actuator has issues.
I have been following the manual (Chapter T, section 7). My VIN is 22833, so the procedure starts on p196. What I have so far noticed is that pin 'F' is hot when the ignition is on, when it is supposed to be negative. It is neutral when the ignition is off, like it's supposed to be. Other pins seem to get hot when I go through the gears, like they should according to the manual.

Does anyone know where upstream I could look for a solution to this - the hot 'F' pin? I will note that the harness looks to be in excellent condition - no visible corrosion.

I have noticed also that there is no 'audible click' when grounding pin 'P' (p197), as is supposed to come from the 'anti-theft relay.' I don't know how the anti-theft relay is supposed to fit into things but perhaps related? But the car does start and run, so it isn't some sort of ignition lock-out.

I will be grateful for any guidance.
 

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Hi there. I would try to disconnect the linkage and see if the actuator works independently from the trans. Just unclip the actuator rod. There is a circuit breaker on the fuse panel as well. When a car is not used and the electrical system is not energized all kinds of things happen. Does your loom unplug at the actuator? If so a de-oxit spray could help. In the later years (mine is a 1980 Wraith II) the loom is wired directly into the actuator, however on the end of the loom (inside the car) there are 2 large interconnects.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All the fuses are ok, including the thermal cut-out (red push button). There are various relays behind the dash that I can start checking - I just wish I new which to start with.

The actuator loom does disconnect from the actuator on my car - this is where I was testing the various pins. The connections look perfect but the power to the pins seem to be wrong, according to the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A problem-solved follow-up, on the off-chance anyone encounters similar problems

I had two issues simultaneously (what are the odds?): 1) the ignition switch wasn't grounding the 'f'-pin wire when on (post 11 should connect to post 12). That was fixable with disassembly and cleaning of the connection. 2) two bare wires (mouse?) in the loom near the engine-bay toe-board connection was allowing current to flow into the f-pin wire. Wrapped those wires and problem solved. Shifts fine.
 

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Congratulations!! And thanks for the follow up. So many times when the problem is fixed we never hear what happened.
I have read your saga, and I have even worse and hope you can help. (my ignition switch module burned up, together with the wires. ). So car runs and drives(hot wired), but no trans. actuator. Where do you get the manual and page that you referred to in section 7? I likewise have no ground to F pin. However, when plug is attached to actuator, and lever is in any gear except P, there is power to all other gear wires at the same time. Thank you. Been struggling for days.
 

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1976corniche, do you have TSD 2476 and/or TSD 4200?
Both are available on the Australian and heritage Bentley sites.

open Post war technical library, then 004, then select the choice that corresponds with your chassis number.

Technical library choices are at the bottom of this page.

Jim
 

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I am trying to get a Shadow going after a long sleep. It starts and runs but won't change gears. I can manually move the transmission lever after disconnecting the rod from the actuator - so it seems that the actuator has issues.
I have been following the manual (Chapter T, section 7). My VIN is 22833, so the procedure starts on p196. What I have so far noticed is that pin 'F' is hot when the ignition is on, when it is supposed to be negative. It is neutral when the ignition is off, like it's supposed to be. Other pins seem to get hot when I go through the gears, like they should according to the manual.

Does anyone know where upstream I could look for a solution to this - the hot 'F' pin? I will note that the harness looks to be in excellent condition - no visible corrosion.

I have noticed also that there is no 'audible click' when grounding pin 'P' (p197), as is supposed to come from the 'anti-theft relay.' I don't know how the anti-theft relay is supposed to fit into things but perhaps related? But the car does start and run, so it isn't some sort of ignition lock-out.

I will be grateful for any guidance.
I am glad you got your car going. I am having the same problem. Can I ask you where you found the manual that shows the F pin on page 196 and 197. I really need to pinpoint the rest of the wires. I have power to all R N I and L when I pull lever into any one of them. I see the manuals from Australia, been looking at them for days, but I don't see the items you speak of. Thank you. Lee.
 

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1976corniche, Lee, I gave you the links above to access the manuals. Did you look there?
 

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Yes, Thank you very much. I am so glad you sent me that information. I was able to see a great deal there. However, it does not have the pin numbers on the connector at the actuator. (ie pin F which was said to be supplied with ground upon ignition.). I may be looking in the wrong place, but I can't figure out why postively activating any of the wires that go to any of the gears, actuates all of the wires, that go to all of the gears; except for park. The actuator is always locked in park, it. has never moved for me. Actuator was working fine before the ignition box fire, so I know it has to be electrical. I just cant figure out what pin goes to what wires. If I completely disconnect the actuator connector, then the above confounding disappears. I am about to install a transmission tunnel hot rod shifter if I can't figure it out. I just don't know what else to do.
 

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If the water of corrosion went in the actuator under the car , microswith or any contacts, issue could be there...
You may have to open it, check seals and all contacts and switches
 

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Al I have not been able to find a key for the connectors. However, the wire colors are mostly included on the wiring diagrams. I troubleshoot by following the wire color and size through connectors. The key to diagrams below is from TSD 2476 Workshop Manuals book 5 right after the table of contents.
Jim

28103
 

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Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to guide me along. After weeks now of chasing Lucas, the ultimate Prince of Darkness; I finally took the actuator off the car and opened it. It was perfectly fine. It has 17 wires going to it. Two solenoids, 4 microswitches, and a turning wheel with a dozen contact points. Ridiculously complicated for pushing a simple lever. Nonetheless, it does have two wires that go to a motor that turns, so I traced back from there. It worked perfectly on the bench. In the car, nothing. It turns out the F pin previously mentioned above, must be grounded. Of course, there is no way to find out where this pin leads to(it is not in the manual), or what color wire is attached to it, or what loom or connector it is contained in. After isolating the pin and sending power through it, I eventually found it. The color is Black, with slate stripe. However, even after grounding that wire, it still would not shift in the car. Turns out you have to supply constant power to Pin P as well, but you must remove the power before it will go into any other gear than park, after you start the car. Absolute foolishness to push a simple lever. Anyway, I did all these things. It drives. Now I cant wait to sell it for whatever I can get. Anybody that needs a breathalyzer in their car can use this instead. If you cant remember which wires to touch together, in order, and then remove the correct one, you will never go anywhere.
 
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