Your car is magnificent. I purchased my 1980 Silver Wraith II in August 2010 at the age of 71. I knew nothing about cars, especially Rolls-Royce. I have fallen in love with the cars and fellowship of other owners, especially those that do, or try to, repair their own vehicles. I have put over 60,000 miles on my SW II since I owned it, By attending seminars and tours I have come to know many in the RR community in the US and across the world. I now am able to do most repairs that come up, but help from Forums such as this one are invaluable to me.
I really admire your dedication to the restoration process, but know that that level of professionalism is outside of my abilities.
Thanks, everyone. I will post a few pointers to help you with servicing Shadows. I'm about halfway through. Next is stripping and paintwork. The Everflex is being cleaned and prepped and a sample sent to the SEM labs for a digital match so I can respray the roof. They make great products and are very reliable and often used to respray vinyl cushions on boats. They also have a great product to freshen up the rubber bumper strips and ends.
I would also recommend buying a Pozidrive screwdriver (#2) from Amazon to tackle those screws that appear to be Phillips....but they really are not the same. Google Pozidrive for an explanation. I would also recommend buying a BA 1/4" socket set and wrenches. All the fasteners below 1/4" will be BA sized.
Last, the best penetrating fluid I found is Kana Kroil. It will seep into one-millionth of an inch. All avail on Amazon.
To be continued...
Hi, any coating has a thickness so I don't think it would be a good idea. The one place you need a coating is in the caliper bores to prevent corrosion. The bores are probably the one single area responsible for the brake fluid contamination due to the fact the raw iron is in contact with brake fluid, and the internal surface area of the piston bore of all the calipers is huge.
I have access to a specialty metal coating firm that does proprietary stuff for the gov't and alot of the coatings are vapor deposits which work well in the piston bores.
The carbs were horrible. I actually sanded with 600, 1000 and 2000 grit paper. I then used my heavy duty Baldor buffer setup to cut and polish. I use Mothers mag polish for a quick touch up and no clear is needed.
Latest....I started this project 3 months ago. Rear subframe was stripped, primed, painted and installed. Final drive was washed in a heated engine block washer to remove all internal crud. Installed rebuilt brake pumps, pressure regulators and accumulators on the finished motor. They were rebuilt and tested by Kelly @ British Tool Works.
Final drive and cross member will be mounted tomorrow and hopefully the motor will be dropped into the restored front subframe and together the body will be dropped onto it this weekend.
Definitely on the height solenoid. All of the hydraulic components have close tolerances, seals, and small orifices that over time and lack of brake fluid flushes will clog.
Any re-build of these components should be researched with the workshop manuals and the Forum. The nice thing about these cars is components can be re-built to factory performance and sometimes better.
The distribution valves will weep around the shaft and be evidenced by a wet bottom of the rat trap case. There is no seal around the shaft, it's a super close tolerance. No harm in opening up each component for inspection. The restriction valves get very restrictive contaminated and another easy fix. Check "rollsroycenut" on Youtube for his videos especially on Shadow hydraulics.
I've recently inherited a 1972 Silver Shadow.
The battery is dead.
The ignition key cannot be removed - I'm guessing there is some kind of interlock with the gear selection.
I cannot get into the boot.
Would it be possible to connect a battery charger via the cigarette lighter socket?
Does anyone know where I can find one of these (right side) - are there any other cars that had them?
I need to add one to the passenger side as well (currently only the driver side is fitted).
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I have a couple questions regarding the late SY carb setup and also the choke on basically all V8s.
The early V8 with the HS and HD carbs seem simple enough to set up. Close both butterflies, reconnect linkage and use the volume screw on each carb to match airflow. HIF7 equipped cars have no...
I am trying to get a Shadow going after a long sleep. It starts and runs but won't change gears. I can manually move the transmission lever after disconnecting the rod from the actuator - so it seems that the actuator has issues.
I have been following the manual (Chapter T, section 7). My VIN is...
Could anyone with an early car provide me with picture of the lock cover plate mine is missing I can apoxamate the outer shape from the shadow on the carpet but need to know if it's flat and it's thickness.
Many thanks Chris