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Wraithman this is fantastic. What is the VIN of your Silver Wraith II? I own LRL40770C and it is currently in Ballwin Missouri a suburb of St. Louis.

jim
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Hi, Thank you! My 1980 SWII is LRL-41587C Ordered in Dec 1980 and delivered in June 1981 to Beverly Hills, CA
Literally one of the last cars made. I performed a total 2 yr resto on this one also.
 

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Your car is magnificent. I purchased my 1980 Silver Wraith II in August 2010 at the age of 71. I knew nothing about cars, especially Rolls-Royce. I have fallen in love with the cars and fellowship of other owners, especially those that do, or try to, repair their own vehicles. I have put over 60,000 miles on my SW II since I owned it, By attending seminars and tours I have come to know many in the RR community in the US and across the world. I now am able to do most repairs that come up, but help from Forums such as this one are invaluable to me.

I really admire your dedication to the restoration process, but know that that level of professionalism is outside of my abilities.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Thanks, everyone. I will post a few pointers to help you with servicing Shadows. I'm about halfway through. Next is stripping and paintwork. The Everflex is being cleaned and prepped and a sample sent to the SEM labs for a digital match so I can respray the roof. They make great products and are very reliable and often used to respray vinyl cushions on boats. They also have a great product to freshen up the rubber bumper strips and ends.
I would also recommend buying a Pozidrive screwdriver (#2) from Amazon to tackle those screws that appear to be Phillips....but they really are not the same. Google Pozidrive for an explanation. I would also recommend buying a BA 1/4" socket set and wrenches. All the fasteners below 1/4" will be BA sized.
Last, the best penetrating fluid I found is Kana Kroil. It will seep into one-millionth of an inch. All avail on Amazon.
To be continued...
 

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Hi Wraithman

You said earlier that all lines were clear coated. How extensively do you use clear coat? Could it be used in the engine bay on items like the carburetor piston chambers (if polished).

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Hi, any coating has a thickness so I don't think it would be a good idea. The one place you need a coating is in the caliper bores to prevent corrosion. The bores are probably the one single area responsible for the brake fluid contamination due to the fact the raw iron is in contact with brake fluid, and the internal surface area of the piston bore of all the calipers is huge.
I have access to a specialty metal coating firm that does proprietary stuff for the gov't and alot of the coatings are vapor deposits which work well in the piston bores.
 

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Hi Wraithman

I meant on the outside. For instance I noticed your carburetors are highly polished - did you clear coat them?

Thanks for putting all this information up. It's enjoyable to read and very educational. The one thing that amazes me is the speed at which you are carrying out such high quality work.

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter #49
The carbs were horrible. I actually sanded with 600, 1000 and 2000 grit paper. I then used my heavy duty Baldor buffer setup to cut and polish. I use Mothers mag polish for a quick touch up and no clear is needed.
 

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Latest....I started this project 3 months ago. Rear subframe was stripped, primed, painted and installed. Final drive was washed in a heated engine block washer to remove all internal crud. Installed rebuilt brake pumps, pressure regulators and accumulators on the finished motor. They were rebuilt and tested by Kelly @ British Tool Works.

Final drive and cross member will be mounted tomorrow and hopefully the motor will be dropped into the restored front subframe and together the body will be dropped onto it this weekend.
Hi Wraithman,

My brother and I are rebuilding the hydraulics of our drophead (drx9174). Do you think it is necessary to open and clean the two distribution valves and the heighr solenoid ? Many thanks
All the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Definitely on the height solenoid. All of the hydraulic components have close tolerances, seals, and small orifices that over time and lack of brake fluid flushes will clog.
Any re-build of these components should be researched with the workshop manuals and the Forum. The nice thing about these cars is components can be re-built to factory performance and sometimes better.

The distribution valves will weep around the shaft and be evidenced by a wet bottom of the rat trap case. There is no seal around the shaft, it's a super close tolerance. No harm in opening up each component for inspection. The restriction valves get very restrictive contaminated and another easy fix. Check "rollsroycenut" on Youtube for his videos especially on Shadow hydraulics.
 
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