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Discussion Starter #1
Busy day. Dropped the front subframe a few days ago and today steam cleaned the lower block on the subframe and then rolled it back into the shop, hoisted the engine off the subframe and outside again for final cleaning.
This week will be subframe painting, dropping off another load to my plater, sump removal (to clean) and starting the detailing of the engine bay.
Every possible bolt, washer, nut and bracket has and will be sent out for plating.
 

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Hi Robert


Thanks for putting up the pics. I save them as they can be really useful as reference material.


The subframe and ancillary parts are in really good condition. As you say, just need painting to bring everything to look like new.


Geoff
 

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With such a complex braking and suspension, why didn't RR go with rack and pinion _ still the same old clunky power steering box and lots of linkages ?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jeff, they did go with a rack and pinion in 1977 or 1978.
 

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What paint did you use on the subframe?
And how did you mill your exhaust manifolds?
I had mine dome on a cylinder head milling machine, which was only able to take off 0,02mm at each pass. It took 50 passes to have one side done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
subframe paint was 2 coats POR15 semi-gloss black.
My machinist will do the exhaust manifolds.
Kelly @BTW will do his magic on the accumulators and pressure valves.
Everything else is done here.

The oil oil was like gravy...yuk! Good thing I'm dropping the sump tomorrow. The intake manifold will be repainted also.

I really wish I didn't have to re-install all the smog stuff!

Powdercoating: Front springs, perches, top plates and rocker covers. I media blast here with #80 Garnet and soda.

All hardware and brackets have been clear cad plated. Bumper shock mountings and cruise control bellows end plates with gold tint cad plating.

By removing the motor and subframe, one has total reach into all crevices of the engine bay.
 

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Thanks for putting these pics up Wraithman. I'm following your restoration with interest. Great job, as always.


Geoff
 

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The '76 is more of a challenge than my '80 due to all the hoses, busy intake manifold, emission stuff, etc. Half the engine bay is done and hopefully mate the engine to the subframe in a week. I want to get everything back onto the engine before dropping the body down. It's so much easier when everything is reachable.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The bay is black satin, not shiny or flat. All bare metal areas were prepped and spotted with Rust-O-Leum oil based red primer and let dry for 2 days. All metal lines were polished and clear coated. Electrical connectors -cleaned and dielectric greased.
Just installed the sump and it came out real nice. Tomorrow is the water pump, front engine brackets, etc.
It's so much easier when parts are clean and shiny!
 

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valve stem seals

Ok, more pics. Updating the valve stem seals this weekend. Dropping the sump, pulled the water pump and will mill the exhaust manifolds.
Hi Wraithman
When you did the valve stem seals did you find an alternative to the ridiculously priced stem seals offered from most RR spares companies, andlooks like work completed with head on?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, I used Enginetech S-2980 positive seals Twenty seals , shipped for under $20. You can also eliminate the extra spring that is used to keep the old style compressed.

All plugs were removed to ease crank rotation. I use a long plastic straw to determine TDC by watching the travel of the straw, then used a compression tester that has a quick connect coupler and fed 100psi to keep the valves up when the spring is compressed. A small wand magnet is very handy when releasing the valve stem collets
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Another update: The engine bay is finished, the motor is almost complete and the rear suspension has been completely removed...yes completely. All hardware, bolts, brackets have been cleaned, media blasted and re-plated. All Phillips and hex sheet metal screws have been replaced with stainless stell. All metal lines have been polished. Lower trailing arms were removed and sandblasted, and then polished. Rust proof primer was applied and then top coated with KBS urethane paint.
Final drive is disassembled and cleaned. All brake pistons are now stainless steel.

I will spend the next 2 weeks with re-assembly on the rear and update withpics.
 

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Remarkable progress Wraithman. Most people would take years and yet you are barely 2 months in. All done in the coldest months of the year as well. Great achievement and great job. Looking forward to a pic of the engine bay.



Geoff
 
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