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Hi Brian

I guess this may be a little late by now, but just in case - I would remove the nut and pull the wire away (pic1) and then connect the lead lamp to it - other end to ground. Then turn ignition on to see if the bulb lights.

To remove the bakelite end cap, just carefully undo the other nut, making sure the thread doesn't turn with the nut and pull off the end cap (pics 2 +3).
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Geoff,

Thanks. It looks like I was not getting power to the pump, and have to figure out why.

Omar offered that I could safely run +12V directly to the pump and when I did it instantly gave me the characteristic ticking. The car is out of the garage now, but there's another problem, and I will post a new topic about that as it deserves its own for later searchers.
 

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Geoff,

Thanks. It looks like I was not getting power to the pump, and have to figure out why.

Omar offered that I could safely run +12V directly to the pump and when I did it instantly gave me the characteristic ticking. The car is out of the garage now, but there's another problem, and I will post a new topic about that as it deserves its own for later searchers.
There are 3 oil pressure sensors on the oil filter housing. One of them disables the fuel pump until sufficient oil pressure has been achieved by turning over the engine. If you simply pull the wire connection from the sensor the fuel pump should work when the ignition is switched on, you should hear the pump ticking until the carb float chamber fills and then shut off due to back pressure.
 

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All your electrical components can be tested by an external voltage source including the fuel pump. When electrical items are rebuilt and bench-tested, they use a voltage source such as a battery or power supply.
 

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There are 3 oil pressure sensors on the oil filter housing. One of them disables the fuel pump until sufficient oil pressure has been achieved by turning over the engine. If you simply pull the wire connection from the sensor the fuel pump should work when the ignition is switched on, you should hear the pump ticking until the carb float chamber fills and then shut

I am fairly sure Brian`s car is the same as my own Shadow 11, fuel pumps run with the ignition switched to the run position so the oil pressure switch is not the problem on this occasion.

Jake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I am fairly sure Brian`s car is the same as my own Shadow 11, fuel pumps run with the ignition switched to the run position so the oil pressure switch is not the problem on this occasion.
Yup. And I did get the car running using a direct feed to the pump.

Unfortunately, the left side carb fuel filter O-ring had "shrunk" enough during her extended rest that I had a fuel fountain!

I now have to source the correct O-Ring in nitrile or another petrol-resistant elastomer in the correct size. I was able to source an AS568-210, but it appears that the cross-section on that size is just a wee bit too fat. As I cannot get it to pop back in to the carb even with a tiny bit of motor oil as lube to help matters along. I've done this before, so I know that the amount of force is greater than it should be. So next will be trying an AS568-116 which has virtually the same ID but a slightly smaller CS.

Here are photos, and the one with the lid and O-ring has got the "too fat" one on it.

29596


29597
 
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