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The brake pumps need lubrication from the brake fluid. You can either use RR363 (easy, but expensive) or make your own (DOT 3 + castor oil). Google it and you'll find lots of opinions one way or the other....
 

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Some of it will rub off and the long term cure is to completely break down the tank to have it electroless-nickel plated, but thats an undertaking. You can fill with DOT 3 for testing and moving things along, but the system needs a lubricant in the brake fluid. The RR363 is no longer available and there is an accepted substitue commercially. Many in the SY community use DOT4 plus 10% pharma castor oil.
Here's a plated tank.
White Light Black Gas Auto part
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A little late now but I manufacture new reservoir filters from stainless steel and bronze which are guaranteed to never collapse.

Table Serveware Rectangle Wood Cylinder


Keep wiping the inside until completely clean. Use DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid to flush the system until you have clear fluid at each bleeder then fill with RR363 and do a final bleed so the system is filled with the RR363.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Mr. Wraithman:
After I took reservoir..apart as I said it was very covered on bottom with sediment. The 3 1" bolts with screens had collapsed to about 3/4 of an inch so maybe the inner springs were old.
Anyway I ordered 3 new ones ($68.00 a piece ouch). I also ordered the top screen with 2 new gaskets the one piece is no longer available. Last question is the reservoir as I cleaned it
is wiping loose some old silver colored light residue left I suppose from the harsh nature of
brake fluid. The reservoir is now only wiping some silver color on paper towels. Will this be ok after I install new filters? Do I refill with DOT 3 as top shows? Thanks
Robert.
A little late now but I manufacture new reservoir filters from stainless steel and bronze which are guaranteed to never collapse.

View attachment 30846

Keep wiping the inside until completely clean. Use DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid to flush the system until you have clear fluid at each bleeder then fill with RR363 and do a final bleed so the system is filled with the RR363.
How do I order these and at what cost, I may still need after all flushing. Thanks Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Mr. Wraithman:
After I took reservoir..apart as I said it was very covered on bottom with sediment. The 3 1" bolts with screens had collapsed to about 3/4 of an inch so maybe the inner springs were old.
Anyway I ordered 3 new ones ($68.00 a piece ouch). I also ordered the top screen with 2 new gaskets the one piece is no longer available. Last question is the reservoir as I cleaned it
is wiping loose some old silver colored light residue left I suppose from the harsh nature of
brake fluid. The reservoir is now only wiping some silver color on paper towels. Will this be ok after I install new filters? Do I refill with DOT 3 as top shows? Thanks
Robert.
Mr Wraithman as for my 1973 Silver Shadow I cleaned the brake reservoir and replaced
all three filters and added rr363 (1 liter about 1/2 full) and with engine running I am getting
bubbles from all 4 return locations. What now? Thanks for all info. Robert
Is this GOOD?
 

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Hi Robert, I took on a '73 Shadow in January this year which had been stood for 34 years. The reservoir was in a terrible state - full of sludge and the baffles has completely dissolved, but it just needed cleaning out. I haven't bothered replacing the baffles yet. The callipers were all seized and that was expected that they would need overhauling. I replaced the brake pumps and the accumulators along with the valve bodies without even testing them, but that was all that needed replacement immediately. Many of the metal brake pipes had rotted from the inside, so the first few trips out resulted in limping home with a leak. There are some awkward ones, especially the pipes going to the rear height rams. I'm still using DOT 4 as I expect a leak any minute, but have been leak free for a month or more. Maybe I'll swap to the expensive stuff one day.....The brakes works brilliantly now. In fact the whole car is great except for the headlights don't work and the AC pump is noisy.
 

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Robert, do you mean that you have bubbles coming up from the return ports in the base of the reservoir? If so keep running the engine until you have no more bubbles there then bleed the rest of the system until you have clean, clear fluid with no bubbles at each bleed screw .on each caliper. Note that each rear caliper has two bleed screws. If there is any air left in the system you will notice a delayed reaction upon applying the brake pedal.. You should also bleed the rear height control, do a search on this forum for articles on this as it has been covered in detail many times before.
 

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In the USA, I suggest joining the RROC and ordering "In The Shadow's Corner" by the late Cal West. It is a book dedicated to SShadow and their maintenance, with an emphasis on the hydraulic system.
 
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