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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today my fathers starter motor seems to have packed up, it clicks and turns the engine only a few degrees drawing massive current. I first tried a booster pack to no avail and then put a new battery on but still no good. The leads get extremely warm.

Conclusion the starter has failed. How easy is it to remove, should I get it repaired or buy a new one. Advice please because it's stuck midway in a garage entrance.

Car is an 1982 Spur.
 

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All looks easy, will I have to remove the exhaust on this car??
I believe you will if you wish to retain your sanity in terms of getting the Lucas starter out but I would suggest that you search here and on the Australian Forums (for which I'd recommend using a search engine along with the search operator, site:au.rrforums.net/forum/messages) on the terms "gear reduction starter" or "gear-reduction starter" or "Nippondenso" as any might get you a result with regard to the SZ cars. I know that this job is a bit more complicated on the turbocharged cars.

Britishstarters.com sells a unit for most of the SZ cars that's the same as for the SY cars. However, if you happen to be lucky enough to have an SZ car with a two-ear mounting plate (instead of the typical three) you may be able to get a free starter out of them. They've been looking for someone to give them a two-ear starter so they can machine the correct plate for those and I believe the "reward" mentioned on their webpage is a free starter if you're the one who supplies the first two-ear example (that is, if memory serves, it's been a while).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I believe the exhaust can stay on the car.
But first, you may want to check all of your wiring to make sure all of the connections are tight. No need to replace the starter for a loose wire.
Will do.

I think with the massive current draw when the starter is activated indicates an internal short, most probable is brushes worn out. If I can remove without the exhaust coming off it can't be that bad a job??

The starter can be reconditioned locally and hopefully last another thirty five years???

I'll let youknow ow I get on.
 

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Hi,

Make sure the spring washer on the large poles on the starter motor have not rusted away.

Was it cranking slowly before,?


the exhaust will need to come off if you still have the original Lucas starter on there.

I would go for the new type starter. They are much more efficient and can still start the car with a half dead battery.

No need to remove the downpipe once one is fitted.

Good luck with her.



It will be a 3 bolt one.
 

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starter motor ease of access

when I replaced my 1981 Spirit starter motor some 5 years ago, I removed the Right front wheel and the RH exhaust down pipe for easy access. The starter motor is heavy, so take care. The replacement was a geared type and much lighter, but I was not able to fit the heat sheild to the new motor, but that has not given any problems in the 5 years since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update to help others, the exhaust must come off on UK (right hand drive cars) because the steering shaft limits removal. It's very easy to do, just 14 nuts/bolts for total removal. The lucas starter is far superior to any modern equivalent, this one has lasted 36 years. I doubt the geared reduction type will last that long.

Took the starter to our local auto electric repairers, they tested and confirmed wingdings shorted out. They said getting parts was not a problem and didn't even ask what car it was from. To me it looks similar to the type used on Ford trucks/lorries (D series) from that era.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Auto electricians called today, starter needs coils, armature, clutch and brake. Plus brushes and bearings. Cost £280 GBP. It will be ready next week. A new starter is available at £400 but there is no stock.
 

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I have to second the call by Paul Yorke (EverythingRollsRoyce) to go with a new gear reduction starter. This is what Crewe itself specified as a replacement years ago and began using as OEM during the SZ era.

I wouldn't toss a fully functioning original Lucas unit (and, in fact, did not toss my original Lucas unit from SRH33576 - it's in storage) but when they fail, and the cost to overhaul is what you've mentioned, it just makes more sense to get a new gear reduction starter, particularly if the car is to be used as a daily or frequent driver.

These will crank with the battery significantly drained while the Lucas units won't crank if the battery is not very near to "the top of its game." That can make the difference between driving home and having to call a tow truck.

A brand new unit from BritishStarters.com, with shipping outside the USA by priority mail, is approximately $350/£280.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Where are you Gary?

Reduction gear one About £300 + vat & shipping.

Lucas recon one £195 + vat & shipping. Exchange though.

Cheers, Paul.
Bristol GB,
Brand new New Lucas one is £400 but there is no stock, hence the full reconditioning of our original. An exchange unit is only as good as it's been reconditioned. We are having new coils, armature, plus brake and clutch.

A recon will only have parts changed as required. I'm more than happy with that, it's a huge starter and will last.
 

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Thought I would tack onto this existing, although dated, thread. The starter motor on my 1989 now only makes a horrid grinding noise when I turn the ignition. Research tells me its pinion on flywheel and that I had better stop trying to start it. Jacked the car up, removed the wheel and exhaust downpipe but am confuse as to which bolts to remove. See photos. The most accessible Allan key bolt (first photo) seems to be neither 3/8" nor 5/16" nor metric. For the second attachment point, there is also a 1/2" bolt , but I am suspecting it is the other Allan key bolt hidden in the distance (third photo). There is also a third Allan key bolt on the bulkhead side.

This looks like a non Lucas starter. I am not sure if its original or not. The bolts are very tight to release (wondering if something is binding).

Any suggestions? Am I correct in leaving the 1/2" bolt alone? What should the Allan key size be? I read someone said 3/8th

Regard

Paul
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