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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

A brief bit of background... A few months ago, I fitted a Stant thermostat in place of the original Rolls Royce on my 1984 Spirit.

I transferred over the jiggle pin by drilling a hole in the new thermostat and carefully prising open and closed the little lugs on the end of the jiggle pin.

Initially, the thermostat worked perfectly, but after a while, the engine began to take a long time to warm up, so I took it all apart again and found that the jiggle pin had got caught in the thermostat and was stopping it from closing:





Notice the rough and ready reshaping of the gasket!

I duly removed the jiggle pin, thinking that the small amount of coolant flow through the hole wouldn't be significant. However, I still found the engine took quite a while to warm up and was a bit under the optimal temperature. In addition, the thermostat housing and radiator got hot pretty quickly, so I wasn't happy with that as a solution. I removed the thermostat and tested it in water - it opened and closed exactly correctly, so my attention turned again to the jiggle pin.

I looked at the original RR thermostat and noticed that there is a guard around the hole for the jiggle pin, the intention of which must be to stop the jiggle pin from getting trapped in the plate of the thermostat:



I began to wonder - could I replicate it?

After a couple of experiments, I came up with the idea of fitting a copper guard around the jiggle pin on my Stant thermostat. I took a piece of scrap copper pipe, opened it up and fashioned something that looked like this:



I then soldered it to the thermostat:



I had to really crank up the heat on my soldering iron, and I filed the thermostat and copper shield to help the solder stick. Once soldered, I checked it was secure, tested the thermostat again and fitted it to the car!

I've only been out for a short drive, but I can report that the thermostat housing, radiator and top hose do not get warm immediately (as they did before) and the car seems to warm up quicker and reach a more optimum operating temperature.

Hopefully a success!

If anyone would like me to modify their Stant thermostat in this way, please contact me. For a small fee, I will do the same for yours. I would need the original RR thermostat, or at least the jiggle pin, and the Stant thermostat.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to say... last time when working with the thermostat, I managed to strip one of the threaded holes in the inlet manifold.

Finding helicoil to be hel-ishly expensive(!) I went for this instead:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/9820338816

Seemed to work well enough and pretty easy to use!

Andrew
 
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