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At the suggestion of a member (thanks woody) we have a new category devoted just to 'solutions'.

If you've had a problem with your Rolls-Royce or Bentley and already solved it, share your solution with us here. If you have pictures showing the steps you took be sure to include them.
 

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I had a harsh grating/grinding noise from under the floor RH side when accelerating briskly and turning left, like when pulling out on to a main road from a standing start. When I eased off the accelerator, the noise ceased. It was traced to bad engine mountings, the rubber had disbonded from the steel plates.
Engine mounts renewed, problem solved.
Car had 64,000 miles recorded. 35 years old.
 

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I had a harsh grating/grinding noise from under the floor RH side when accelerating briskly and turning left, like when pulling out on to a main road from a standing start. When I eased off the accelerator, the noise ceased. It was traced to bad engine mountings, the rubber had disbonded from the steel plates.
Engine mounts renewed, problem solved.
Car had 64,000 miles recorded. 35 years old.
The follow-up question is: Do you know what was actually making the noise? My first guess is that the engine tilted enough to allow fan blades to encounter, however "gently", the radiator. Make sure you check out the state of the engine-facing side of the radiator, particularly the bottom, and report back.

Given how, as the old saying goes, "If there ain't oil under 'em there ain't oil in 'em," applies to the SY series cars, and a lot of SZ series cars, the engine mounts are slowly but surely destroyed by long contact with petroleum products. They should be checked on a regular basis particularly if one has chronic valve cover leaks.
 

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I had checked the radiator for any possible impact damage from the fan, all was ok,
I am fairly sure that the noise came from the front propshaft universal joint as there was almost 3 sixteenths of an inch
of movement vertically and laterally in the forward u/j at the time that the separated engine mounts were found.
To be on the safe side both propshaft u/j's were replaced at the same time as the eng mounts.
 

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Had an intermittent starting problem, starter motor would just click or turn too slowly when I turned the ignition key, on most occasions the starter worked fine but could not be relied on. Cleaned the connections between the starter motor and solenoid and suddenly the problem was resolved but only temporarily as the original fault manifested itself again after a few weeks. Cleaned all the earth strap connections from the engine to the body and the battery earth to the boot/trunk and it solved the problem for another while but again only temporarily. I was about to remove the starter motor but when I proceeded to disconnect the battery I noticed that the isolator switch in the boot/trunk seemed a little stiff and the earth lead from the battery to the switch was slightly warm while the lead from the switch to the body was not showing any signs of heat. I replaced the isolator switch and everything seems fine now, the starter appears to be spinning faster than ever. I was lucky to accidentally diagnose this fault which saved the hassle of removing the starter motor. Apparently the isolator switches do wear out and the symptoms are very similar to a faulty starter motor or faulty starter solenoid. Hopefully this information will save some other owner the hassle of unnecessarily removing the starter motor, Regards, Larry
 

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Great Larry,
MAke sure the 2 battery bolts for + and - are tight and clean.
Oxydatiion and power are ennemey, and starter requires power.

Jean
 
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