[OVD385P]

What is the VIN of your Shadow? Very early cars may not have had degrees marked on the crankshaft damper in which case you will need to use the 2° BTDC mark on the flywheel and set it statically. I have a vague recollection of having to do that on a very early RHD Shadow several years ago.

Hi Jim, Vin number is SRH22816

 

[Jim Walters]

That's quite a late car then, 1975 - 76, and should definitely have degrees marked on the crankshaft damper. The one I was thinking didn't have them on the damper was SRH5551 so around 1968. Have you gone slowly around the complete circumference of the damper? Using a 7/8ths inch wrench on the power steering pump pulley and pushing in on the belts while you pull on the wrench will allow you to turn the engine over slowly so you can inspect every inch.

 

[Wraithman]

The straw method would be a basic way to tell if the piston is at TDC. If the rotor is pointing to #1 you can be in the "zone" and the car should start and from there you can rotate the distributor until you have the proper timing. From what was posted, the dizzy was not removed and only moved a bit.
Likely the pulley was approached from the bottom.

 

[Wraithman]

I have LRE-23114 in the shop and it has markings.

 

[OVD385P]

When it went wrong I was able to move distributor until car started. So I know I'm somewhere near
However at present if I move it so car starts eagerly from cold it then runs rough when warm. Adjust it so it runs better when warm then next day it will not start from cold. So close, but not right. Will find t.d.c using straw in A1 when I go back to car on Thursday. Would be good to find out how many millimetres apart t.d.c mark and 5 degrees mark are.
Do the later cars still have marks on the flywheel as well?
Will be changing plugs and ht leads as well just in case rough running is caused by her missing on one cylinder. However she was running great until distributor moved.

 

[Jeff R 1]

Could be just a coincidence, but you may want to check the advanced weights, the disruption of the distributor coming loose, may have disturbed some dirt and surface on them.
If they have become sticky that would cause poor starting and running, and when you move the whole distributor it temporarily correct the problem when it's moved, depending on when you need to start it or have it running smooth.

 

[Wraithman]

Based on what I see with the belts, I 'm going to assume the wires have not been replaced in a long time....if at all.It's possible the leads may be arcing and may be visible to check with very dark surroundings. Draining off voltage from compromised leads will certainly effect running conditions. Do not rule this out.
There is no point in replacing a few components. I would also replace the cap and rotor with proper replacements.

 

[OVD385P]

Could be just a coincidence, but you may want to check the advanced weights, the disruption of the distributor coming loose, may have disturbed some dirt and surface on them.
If they have become sticky that would cause poor starting and running, and when you move the whole distributor it temporarily correct the problem when it's moved, depending on when you need to start it or have it running smooth.

I did check the weights were moving freely and no excessive play. Hard to tell if springs are weak as can not check correctly until running a bit better. The distributor was allegedly refurbished and converted to electronic ignition just before I purchased the car 3 years ago and to be fair to the old girl this is the first time she's let me down.

 

[Jeff R 1]

What electronic unit was installed, I'm not a big fan of those aftermarket things, Pertronix or Lumenition ?
I'm not saying that is causing problems now, I'm just curious.

From what it looks like, very little maintenance was performed on the car, it's amazing that it ran as well as it did.
All things considering, it's doing quite well.
That's a pet peeve of mine, eg SU fuel pumps, they literally work for 50 years and when they fail, people complain how shitty they are.
I'm not saying you're like that, but British cars get a bad rap from owners that don't look after their cars.

When was the last time the oil in the damper tubes was checked ?
Fuel filters ?
The other thing here too that happens, is once you start servicing the carburetors, brittle vacuum lines and dirty electrical connections get disturbed and everything goes to hell.
It's sort of a catch-22, if you do nothing, it may run for many years, or it may be on the verge of failing and if you service it, you may open up a can of worms.

If you get into the carbs, take lot's of photos of where things go, there are numerous posts here of people asking where vacuum lines went and "where do I plug this in" ?

 

[OVD385P]

Based on what I see with the belts, I 'm going to assume the wires have not been replaced in a long time....if at all.It'ssible the leads may be arcing and may be visible to check with very dark surroundings. Draining off voltage from compromised leads will certainly effect running conditions. Do not rule this out.

New set of leads, spark plugs and all drive belts should be arriving today or tomorrow. Plugs are only 6 month old but changing them anyway so as to rule them out. Leads were changed 3 years ago at same time as electronic ignition conversion and look good and no obvious arcing when viewed in the dark but again want to rule them out of the equation.
Hopefully once I have done this and established t.d.c I will be able to set her back up.

What electronic unit was installed, I'm not a big fan of those aftermarket things, Pertronix or Lumenition ?
I'm not saying that is causing problems now, I'm just curious.

From what it looks like, very little maintenance was performed on the car, it's amazing that it ran as well as it did.
All things considering, it's doing quite well.
That's a pet peeve of mine, eg SU fuel pumps, they literally work for 50 years and when they fail, people complain how shitty they are.
I'm not saying you're like that, but British cars get a bad rap from owners that don't look after their cars.

When was the last time the oil in the damper tubes was checked ?
Fuel filters ?
The other thing here too that happens, is once you start servicing the carburetors, brittle vacuum lines and dirty electrical connections get disturbed and everything goes to hell.
It's sort of a catch-22, if you do nothing, it may run for many years, or it may be on the verge of failing and if you service it, you may open up a can of worms.

If you get into the carbs, take lot's of photos of where things go, there are numerous posts here of people asking where vacuum lines went and "where do I plug this in" ?

Not sure what unit it is as fitted before my ownership. And yes the car had been neglected by previous owner however I am steadily working through the car. Spent £4000 on all new brakes, recon accumulators, overhauled brake pumps with new push rods. While manifold was off carburettors were overhauled and set up by a local garage. I also resealed the leveling valves as one was weeping. I have fitted a £1400 stainless steel exhaust. Plugs oil and filters have been done every year of my ownership around February, before start of wedding season. regardless of mileage.. every penny made on Weddings has gone back into this car and my 2 Daimler DS420 Limousines.
You are judging the condition of my car and level of maintenance performed on one image showing worn belts which were already planned into this years maintenance😒
I started with the brake system first as I considered this to be the most crucial part to be right and the most expensive.

 

[guyslp]

You are judging the condition of my car and level of maintenance performed on one image showing worn belts which were already planned into this years maintenance😒

This happens far too often in my opinion. Most of these cars, even if "slightly neglected" need quite a few things done to them some of which are way more critical than others.

I've still come nowhere near to tackling every blessed thing I ever wanted to tackle on my cars, but my first priority is to make certain that they are roadworthy. The rest can (and usually does) wait.

We're not all collectors. Some of us are just enthusiasts who want "driver grade" cars. I'll never win a concours because I never want to do the amount of work necessary to do so (and I also have a very strong aversion to "Trailer Queens." Cars were meant to be driven, which means they'll show signs of that having been the case.)

 

[OVD385P]

I absolutely love my classic cars and have always owned at least one ever since I was 18. There are not many cars that I have not owned at some point. The wedding cars were always a way to fund my obsession with pre 80's cars and has never been about making money. My Rolls is my weekend drive and I love nothing more than going to Tesco for my weekly shop in the old girl and it gets just as much attention if not more than my other favourite toy.

 

[Jeff R 1]

You're putting words in my mouth, I am not judging you, I based what I said from other posters in the entire forum.

Don't take this the wrong way, anyone who can't find where they're timing marks are or figure out how to create there own, sounds like he may need help in what I said in post #29.
I'm a perfectionist, I would use the "stop cylinder" method, not a straw.

 

[Wraithman]

Once your belts, wires, cap, etc are installed., I would consider going back to points. They won't fail you.

 

[guyslp]

I would consider going back to points.

His car never had them. The Lucas Opus ignition model was introduced on the SWB Shadow at chassis number 22118. (It was 22673 for the LWB - later to become the Silver Wraith II).

Repairing and Modifying the Lucas Opus Ignition 35DE8 Module

If you don't have the OEM Lucas unit I would leave well enough alone. If you do, I'd file the above article as eventually, it will fail. The electronic modules (if installed correctly) last decades.

 

[Wraithman]

It's a waste of time trying to repair the OPUS module. The power transistor that does all the switching is very hard to find. You will find crap from China. I have tried to repair them and it's not worth the risk, so. the Pertronix is a much better substitute and takes no time to install. The points can be installed in his distributor, but the Pertronix is a much better solution especially the later versions that are self protecting.

 

[guyslp]

Pertronix is a much better solution especially the later versions that are self protecting.

Agreed. I'll admit that you can generally do a "roadside repair" on points that will get you home, but I don't prefer them. I'll also admit that most electronic ignitions work until they don't, with no warning of "don't" coming, but since they most often work trouble free for periods on the order of decades, I'll still take 'em!

 

[Wraithman]

When the Opus went on my '81 Wraith at a local intersection, which was on a grade, I was able to roll it to the shoulder and after awhile it re-started. I can say after installing it, the idle was smooth and the acceleration was better.

 

[guyslp]

When the Opus went on my '81 Wraith at a local intersection, which was on a grade, I was able to roll it to the shoulder and after awhile it re-started. I can say after installing it, the idle was smooth and the acceleration was better.

The story of my FTP with my Silver Shadow II was recounted here: A Christmas FTP!! . . .

All sorts of theories but the problem was a failing Lucas Opus ignition system .

 

[OVD385P]

Well finally fitted all new plugs and leads. 2 plugs were suspect. Running a little better but still not right. Found t.d.c with use of a piston stop and was able to make out very faint marks on pulley for t.d.c and 5 degrees. When rpm is increased there is hardly any movement when viewed with strobe light. Going to take distributor off tomorrow and overhaul. Do not think weights are doing there job.