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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, since changing the battery i have total power failure. Already found out to start looking from the Ammeter shunt. But as been told it is located above the pedals (RHD), the fusebox, i still cant locate it. Could anyone tell me where the Ammeter shunt is located please?

All info about this very welcome thanx :)

Hemmo
The Netherlands
 

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Hemmo
Get a wiring diagram and start checking for power from the battery into the circuits. The ammeter shunt is a low resistance built into the ammeter to permit the vast majority of current to bypass the measuring part of the ammeter.
Leho
 

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Have you turned the battery isolator switch back on?
if so....
Is there a voltage across the battery terminals?
if so ....
Is there a voltage at the starter motor solenoid? n(you need to get under the car for this one)
If not.... start looking at ammeters etc (although I'd be surprised if it was an ammeter fault).

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Power failure

Thanx for reply RR-friends. I can do nothing with a wire diagramm, bc this doesn't tell me where the battery power cable enters the front of the car.

There's a voltage on the battery sure, but for the rest EVERYTHING DEAD.
Please tell me where i can find the battery isolator switch. Thanx so far.

Hemmo
 

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If you take a multimeter and touch one lead to the positive battery clamp at the positive terminal and the other to a bare metal spot or screw on the chassis in the trunk, what reading do you get?

What happens when you do the same thing from the positive battery clamp at the positive terminal to the negative terminal clamp?

What happens when you do the same from the positive clamp to where the wing nut at the end of the negative terminal wire bolts into the chassis?

I find it very, very unlikely that the main positive power cable has gone completely dead. This sounds like there's no ground to chassis.

The main positive cable from the battery, if I recall correctly, is routed just below the bottom sills beneath the bottom of the two doors on the side the battery is located in the trunk (and I think this is always the right side). How things "fan out" when it enters the cabin depends on whether you have an RHD or LHD configuration (again, if memory serves).

A battery isolation switch, if present, is very hard to miss. This, again, can have several configurations. Posting a photograph of the battery box and environs, preferably with the side carpeting that surrounds it removed, would be helpful if it's not a simple "something's not connected so that you have ground" fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Main power failure SS1

There is power between + and - sure tested and put in a brand new Bosch battery 70 ah. However testing between + battery and bare chassis (were the - cable is connected) there's no power. Also there is not such as a main power switch in the boot trunk.

The battery is located at the left side. The main power + cable disappears into the chassis down at left bottom plate just behind the rear shockdemper.

For more testing i will need to jack the car tomorrow. Could anyone tell me at which side the starter-engine is located so i can start jacking at this side of the car?

Thanx so far....

Hemmo
 

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Re: Main power failure SS1

Hemmo said:
There is power between + and - sure tested and put in a brand new Bosch battery 70 ah. However testing between + battery and bare chassis (were the - cable is connected) there's no power. Also there is not such as a main power switch in the boot trunk.

The battery is located at the left side. The main power + cable disappears into the chassis down at left bottom plate just behind the rear shockdemper.

For more testing i will need to jack the car tomorrow. Could anyone tell me at which side the starter-engine is located so i can start jacking at this side of the car?

Thanx so far....

Hemmo
If you are testing with a multimeter between + battery and chassis and getting nothing then something is wrong, and not with the cabling. If a multimeter is touching battery + with one lead and bare metal chassis with the other lead you've created a circuit that simply must read 12V (or something very near it). Definitely recheck your battery as a starting point. If you can't get the 12V through your test meter from the + clamp to chassis then look for another ground point to try within the trunk. There are several ground points for wire collections very near to the battery.

The fact that you are not getting a good 12V when you go between + and where the negative cable connects to the chassis makes me wonder if something is preventing the negative cable from grounding. I'd disconnect it at both the battery and chassis, clean both ends up thoroughly along with the area where it connects to the chassis, and try again.

You are correct that the battery is on the left. I don't know why I even typed "right" last night, but I did.

The reason I suggest using the cable connect clamp as the + testing point once it's hooked to the battery is that you must be sure you have actual solid contact. I've seen cases where you'd think the clamp simply has to be making contact but, somehow, it isn't.

It is close to impossible (I never say never) that you have an issue with the actual main positive power cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Isolator switch

I found the battery isolator switch. After the last mail i tested at the battery negative pole this led to the switch :?
It is located above the battery somewhat near to the back and looks like a small black "butterfly". I don't know the English word (NL name: vleugelmoer). Push and then turn it 90'.

Obviously everything came back to life :)

Thanx for the help!

Hemmo
 
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