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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

My tinkerings with my Silver Shadow have been ongoing on a back burner for some time, but with the help of a retired Rolls Royce mechanic, however he is very anti-modification, even insisted we remove the electronic ignition I had fitted (and was not working very well admittedly) from the car before he would work on it with me.

My Shadow being a 1971, with the key between the steering wheel and the door, has no oil pressure and water temperature gauges.

Anyway, as a Porsche technician for 30 years, it is in my blood to keep an eye on oil pressure and in the water-cooled models the temperature gauges, with the Silver Shadow I have neither, just a couple of lights to prey will warn me, if they work! Which to be honest, makes me itch and worry the whole time I am driving.

I have been researching retrofitting these to my car, and there seems to be a solution for water temperature, putting the sensor/sender in the intake manifold, removing a triangular plate and drilling and tapping it for a sensor. What is everyones opinion of this? Is it better to get an earlier pre 68 Shadow intake manifold/thermostat housing with the sensor bore already there?

For the oil pressure sensor/sender, I understand the Rolls Royce way was a sender near the oil filter, is this in a sandwich plate, or the in the block? Is my 1971 likely to have a blanking plug screwed in here?

The next problem is obviously where to put gauges in the dashboard. I really do not want to butcher the original dashboard, but I wonder what other people have done.

It might be that you all trust the Rolls Royce engineering and do not feel these are needed, but on the other hand, if there are some of you who have added these instruments, I would really like to hear from you.
 

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Shadow II has coolant temp and oil pressure.
On my Shadow I, I replace Amps gauge by coolant temp, because like you I like to know.
I bought a gauge from a Corniche and a sender , drilling just after thermostat, as far as I remember.
 

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I've fitted a temperature gauge to my 74 Shadow (SRX18501). It's the best thing I did. I know it's non-standard but it has not changed the character of the car at all.


The link below documents how I searched for the best solution for myself. The pics show the gauge in the dash and the location I chose to fit the sender unit.


Fitting the gauge where the radio balance switch used to be did mean I butchered the dashboard a little (nothing that can't be reversed should I ever wish to do so) so you may want to chose a different location if that's a big issue for you.


I did see a conversion where the owner had placed a temperature and oil pressure gauge just above the radio in the triangular walnut centre console which I particularly liked. However, even this would require a little butchering.


I guess the other option would be to hang the gauges from a bracket. This has the advantage of minimal butchering but the gauges will look very much like addons, rather than part of the car.


http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/18164.html?1541006810
 

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very early shadows had coolant gauges instead of AMP gauges. Mine is a 69 and has said gauge. The gauges always ran near the top of the field, and caused many folks to worry so they took the gauges out. (after a modification was made available to fix the gauge needle not to go so high, along with 3 other very helpful things to cool the car down and make it run hot easier. That was a useful service bulletin and a kit of parts, only to be put in cars whos owners complained of hot temps.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but this modification has become more relevant for me recently and revisiting the forum I realised how rude I had been in not thanking you guys for posting answers.

At the same time as posting this I was thinking of fitting electronic ignition, which I did, which also resulting in the first electronic ignition kit dying and the second one being so unreliable that I burnt out a recently replaced starter motor trying to start it most of the time.

I have an elderly friend who was technical for Rolls Royce in the UK for a long time, a chap called Peter Mayles, who came to my aid and told me to ditch the electronic ignition and go back to points, it could be he is old school, or it could be that he has seen many electronic ignition issues in the past that he did not think it was worth it.

Anyway, between him having some health issues, and myself being busy, it is only a year on that I have the car running again, only to find the water pump decided to start making one hell of a nasty noise, so my thoughts are back to the cooling system and therefore a temperature gauge in particular.

Dounraey I do like your solution with the fader, I am tempted to do what you have done there, as well as replicating the same for the electric aerial switch to get my two guages I wanted.

Potentially, I might in my car switch out the amps gauge to one of those positions (not as useful for me than oil press and coolant temp), and potentially put the coolant temp where the amps gauge is and the oil pressure as the next closest to the driver and the amps gauge the furthest away.

How did you mount the gauge behind the facia? I have never had this panel off of the car, so have no idea how things are mounted back there.

I would just put the amps gauge where the audio fader or electric aerial switch is, and then put a dual gauge, like a smiths unit, which shows oil pressure and coolant pressure, but can only find these in capillary types, and I have never really been a fan of these (the idea of potential leaks for one) , and I think it may be easier to feed wires for two senders from the engine bay into the cabin, than capillary tubes.

I hope you are still there, or if anyone else has any comments or suggestions, I will welcome them.

Jon
 

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In my opinion the best gauge to use is indeed the Smith's or Jaeger dual gauge, it's more accurate than electric. In my cars I have installed them in place of the clock and have done this to client's cars as well. Neat, tidy installation with no cutting or modifying of the dash. The water bulb sender goes into the triangle plate and the oil pressure connects to the oil pressure light switch with a T fitting.
Shadow water oil gauge.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That is such a neat solution Jim!
Which model did you use?
Is that the bezel from the gauge or did you transfer over the clock one?
What is the best routing through the bulkhead for the tubes?
Does the clock mount up in a similar way as most aftermarket gauges (a U shaped bracket with a couple of studs coming out of the back of the gauge with thumb screws?

Sorry for all my questions, but I am extremely keen to perform this upgrade. I have read other threads in here where some people have said it is not necessary, but to be honest as a mechanic for the last 30 years, I have seen customers who have avoided a big problem by coming in when their car has just seemed to be running warmer (or colder) than usual, or oil pressure not being at a level they are used to, which has identified a problem before it became expensive or a breakdown. Besides, I am always nervous as a mechanic not being able to periodically check temperature and pressures on a regular basis during a drive.

All the best
Jon
 
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