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I could be wrong, but I believe that there are no "stuck valves". There are just valves that collided with pistons. Did anybody verify that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
You can remove the adaptor plate complete with engine mounts and leave the engine sitting on the rear of the sub frame.
leave the front mount attached and support the engine from leaning side to side.
I used a wedge of folded carpet under the sump to avoid damage.
From memory i think you need to remove the adaptor plate to lift the engine vertically.
It would be interesting to know what caused it.
Not balanced as unit I would mark them with tipex ( crank, flex plate, ring gear), so it all goes back in same place. From memory I think some of the spacers between ring gear & flex plate may be machined down, I always used to draw flex plate on piece paper then put relevant bolt spacer nut on drawing so you know it all goes back in exactly the same place
Thanks again @rollmech , that is really helpful, will use that method!

30342
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I could be wrong, but I believe that there are no "stuck valves". There are just valves that collided with pistons. Did anybody verify that?
@szdowk, yes, I suspected that too, but used a boroscope on all cylinders, no sign of piston or bore damage…
You can remove the adaptor plate complete with engine mounts and leave the engine sitting on the rear of the sub frame.
leave the front mount attached and support the engine from leaning side to side.
I used a wedge of folded carpet under the sump to avoid damage.
From memory i think you need to remove the adaptor plate to lift the engine vertically.
It would be interesting to know what caused it.
Thanks @Martin Pearson are you saying the transmission adaptor needs to be removed before the engine can be lifted out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Sounds like you know what needs doing and removing the engine is a given.
Too bad RR didn't make the drive gear the same size as the cam shaft journals so it could be slipped out.
Indeed, cant count the number of times ive had this thought about RR vehicle engineering design from this era!
 

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It happens very often and any custodian of these cars has to be very involved with their care, learning and performing the required work , or use a competent shop.
 

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Imho, this is an engine-out job : how will you be certain ALL the inside of the engine is prefectly clean, with no metal chip trapped somewhere in the oil circuit ?
I would start looking for a second hand (preferably running ;) ) engine.

My 2 cts.
 

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Make no doubt about it, the block has to be stripped and washed, and measured
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Imho, this is an engine-out job : how will you be certain ALL the inside of the engine is prefectly clean, with no metal chip trapped somewhere in the oil circuit ?
I would start looking for a second hand (preferably running ;) ) engine.

My 2 cts.
Thats a good point, I guess Ill have to rely on the oil filter and magnetic sump plug.

The way i look at it, the worst that can happen is I end up with a broken engine 😀

But seriously, the only breakage is one pushrod, which is a pretty clean break , and I will meticulously clean the cam box and lifters in paraffin.

Using parts from my donor car so only real cost is my time and a few gaskets…
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thats a good point, I guess Ill have to rely on the oil filter and magnetic sump plug.

The way i look at it, the worst that can happen is I end up with a broken engine 😀

But seriously, the only breakage is one pushrod, which is a pretty clean break , and I will meticulously clean the cam box and lifters in paraffin.

Using parts from my donor car so only real cost is my time and a few gaskets…
Quick update, used the @Martin Pearson method in the end ( remove the starter and transmission adapter and support the engine on folded carpet) as I was concerned about flexplate balance.

30355
30356


Then on removal of the cover plate ( which turned out to be the source of my rear engine leak , and not the crankshaft seal) simply withdraw the camshaft from the rear of the engine 😃

30357
 

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I think it would be a good idea to replace the crank seal while you're in there, it seems pretty easy to get at.
If you do, I'll think you'll find it's near its "end of life".

Does your engine still have the cotton and wax valve stem seals, if it does, it's probably a good idea to get rid of them for a more modern seal ?
Cars that sit, as yours did do not do well with the old type seal, they are under spring tension, at least that's the way they are on my MK VI, or they were rather.
What happens is that the cotton dries out over time and allows no oil to get down the valve guide, so after a year, there's literally no oil there.
Corrosion from burning fossil fuel in the guide and the stem happens, creating a stuck valve.
The corrosion consists of water and Sulphur, along with countless heating and cooling cycles of the car sitting in a bad climate with condensation (where the water comes from).
Sludge also play a part here too of course from cars that haven't been driven enough, or long enough.

If you plan on replacing the cotton seals, I have some pointers for you.
 

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The rear main seal appears to be the upgraded one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Broken camshaft replaced, together with lifters & pushrods from spare engine

Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Font Machine


Now I only have to put the rest of it together 😅
 

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Can I ask does your car have the rear crank shaft sensor if so how do you put the flex plate /ring gear back in the same place as every other manufacturer has 1 bolt out of line so ringear can only go in one place but not Bentley it seems !!
 

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Throw some oil on the cam while you have it open.
 

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Johnathan, did you deal with the original problem as to why the push rods bent ?
It doesn't really say in the thread.
If this was mine, I would be getting one of those in-situ valve spring compressors so I could check to see the valves themselves were free in their guides.

Just throwing it all back together with a good camshaft isn't going to really fix the original problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Can I ask does your car have the rear crank shaft sensor if so how do you put the flex plate /ring gear back in the same place as every other manufacturer has 1 bolt out of line so ringear can only go in one place but not Bentley it seems !!
i put a dab of paint on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Throw some oil on the cam while you have it open.
Thanks will do
Johnathan, did you deal with the original problem as to why the push rods bent ?
It doesn't really say in the thread.
If this was mine, I would be getting one of those in-situ valve spring compressors so I could check to see the valves themselves were free in their guides.

Just throwing it all back together with a good camshaft isn't going to really fix the original problem.
Thank you Captain Obvious 😀, but yes, i do plan to check/clean the valves stems before putting the covers on
 

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Thanks will do

Thank you Captain Obvious 😀, but yes, i do plan to check/clean the valves stems before putting the covers on
OK smarty-pants, just checking... :sneaky:

I spend some time on other forums where many people would not think to do carry through.
They throw everything back together in a rush and forget critical steps; either through being in a rush, or just plain carelessness.
I've seen it happen.

Here's another piece of advice, "check your own work as you go along".

Do you plan on replacing the old style cotton and wax stem seals with the modern garter seal ?
 
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