Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi!
I've finally got my Turbo R on the road, and am niw gearing up for a major service. Ordered a load of stuff from Flying Spares, which should get here by next week, but I am sourcing my lubricants here:

Engine: Approx 10l Castrol Edge 5W40
Gearbox: Approx 10l Castrol Dexron II - does it really take 10l? I'll be changing the filter too!
Rear Axle: Approx 3l Castrol EPX 80W-90 - or does it need limited slip oil? Does the car have a LSD? Sorry, but I'm very new to these...
I'll change the LMH+ too, I gather I need about 5l? Can you take the top off the reservoir on these to make filling easier when flushing the system?

Anyways, here's a picture for good measure:
28369


Cheers

Es
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
743 Posts
If you're able to drain the torque converter, i expect that it will need at least 10l of ATF. Can you actually still get Dex II?
I'm becoming fond of redline products gear oil. Their 75-90 GL-5 gear oil has all the friction modifiers needed for LSD.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!
I've ordered "10 liters of everything" and 20 liters of green coolant!
I hope to service it next week - I have to scrounge the lift off my mechanic next door, so will have to adapt to his schedule!

Es
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,090 Posts
Only 1.5 L for the final drive. Note: make sure you have the tool to remove the drain plugs. It normally comes in the toolkit and many go missing.
Slide under the car to see what you need.

Be very careful placing the lift arms under the car. There are factory recommended contact points. The workshop manual will show you where to place the pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,006 Posts
You cannot drain the torque converter on those cars, much different from Mercedes. So you need to make a cleaning by yourself draining several time if oil is dirty or by another process which require pumps and pressure....
No LSD
Top of LHM tank are factory sealed with a lead . It depends if it has been open or not.
If yes, you can open the top, but the real dirt is in the caliper, so bleeding is an obligation.
I am sur your green LHM is brown in callipers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
743 Posts
On cars where i was not able to drain the torque converter, I removed the transmission cooler lines to drain the fluid on the return side. Run the engine for a few seconds and direct the return line to a contain. Add a quart, drain a quart until the fluid comes out red.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys!

As for the rear axle, I understand that it takes about 2,8l liters? And, indeed, no LSD! Most of the tools are missing from mine - what does the drain plug tool look like?

Jacking points: those are the one with the vertical "plates" with a hole? Some hamfisted mechanich has managed to bend the plates one mine... I'll see if we can straighten them...

Auto box. I've ordered the filter kit - and 10 liters of Dexron II... Jean always knows better it seems - I was assuming you could just empty the converter as on a Mercedes (the only other automatics I've owned)! So an oil change on these is more like "dilluting" the oil with fresh oil? Unless one does it the way alabassi suggests obviously.

Bleeding the brakes is definetely also on the "to do" list, and possibly replacing the spheres a well.

Safe motoring!

Es
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,090 Posts
You fill the final drive thru the rear plug until it drains out of the plug......again 1.5 L
The drain plugs are hex and require the hex key to remove.

No jacking under any of the front subframe mounts...They get damaged. You can lift at the rear of the rocker panel where the rear suspension is anchored.
There is no drain plug on the T/C . A/T filters do a good job but here will likely be metallic sediment on the bottom of the trans pan. There should be a magnet there to attract any metal generated, if not buy a small magnet.

Go to Youtube and search for "Wraithman". I have a jack/lift video.
Get to know the workshop manual....it will answer all your questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,006 Posts
Rear axle, you need about 2.3 l

Transmission, Al is right, but he is used to do it and is really a specialist to maintain and repair. I do not suggest you do what he suggest the first time.
If you do what AL suggests, you need to be 2. One filling ooil with engine runng and checking what's going out and the other ready to stop engine. But 10 l is a minimum in that case if you want to clean all the system
10 L is too much to start, except is oil is very dirty.
You should do a classic drain, open and clean sump and replace filter.
Then drive and eventually drain only sump.
SHould be drain every 20.000 M/KM to keep it always clean

Bleeding brakes is a serious job, special procedure on those care as no master cylinder .
4 calippers in the front, 2 in the rear / 8 bleeders for calippers

Which sphere you want to replace ? front Brake or rear suspension ? Why ?

Carrefull high pressure = danger.

Also, those cars have rear self leveling, if you make a mistake and open the wrong bleeder being under the car it may collapse and stuck you / kill you.

Study those cars before doing too much too fast, they are very particular.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Wraithman and Jean!

The suspensions spheres were replaces about 2 years ago, so should be good, but I only get 20-22 pumps out of the brake spheres before the light comes on!

And you're right:
"Also, those cars have rear self leveling, if you make a mistake and open the wrong bleeder being under the car it may collapse and stuck you / kill you. " - I don't want The Fat Lady on top of me :LOL:

I'm an automotive engineer by trade, and have spent a lot of time working in service shops as a young man, so I'm not afraid of most tasks - but I'll ask if I'm unsure!

Again, you guys are a great help, and I find it fascinating that there is such a large DIY community attached to these cars!

Cheers

Es
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,006 Posts
Coolant : just read you bought 20 l green coolant.

Hum ! You need quality antifreeze with 50 % demineralised water.
All the mixture ready to use have genrally low quality products in it.

Plus you have a Turbo car, which requires to be very carrefull with coolant.

HOAT blue antifreezez is in my opinion a good advice, from a premium brand.

Coolant is essential , it is inside the engine and could make disasters because of Galbvanic corrosion


20 pumps for brakes is the limit to replace them.
DO not forget to lower completely pressure in the system before trying to remove sphere.

I warn and some points to avoid injury.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
743 Posts
Green coolant is not going to hurt anything provided that you change it every couple of years. I suspect that this is what the factory used when this car was new. It will break down and result in corrosion if left too long which is why long life coolant was invented when manufacturers decided to extend service intervals.

Mercedes used the gold G05 formula for yonks, but recently moved to the BMW blue coolant a few years back. Both should be just fine. Napa was recently having a special on Zerex G05 for $13.99 gallon. I'm not sure if the deal is still available. If it is and you don't like flushing coolant. I'd snap some up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hi!

I bought green because that's what was in it! Checked with the manufacturer that it's 2-EHA free, so I think it should be OK!

The stuff i got comes as concentrate or ready-mixed, i got the ready-mixed good for -40°C.


Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,006 Posts
Green should not be an OAT long life , which is good as mix with long life is not recommended except if you replace all.

Green & blue are ok, normally they are the same generation

You should have taken the concentrate, usually better quality.

In any case, as you cannot drain all the coolant, next year or in 2 years, if you still have the car, you could make a second drain

Yes, I think too the Bentley original was green.
Mercedes HOAT G48, the regular blue one, is in my opnion a very good antifreeze, to be mixed.

In any case, do not worry, it will be much better than the old one in the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Re the rear axle - I changed the Final Drive oil on my 88 Spur a couple of months ago and it was dead on 2.3 liters. My memory's pretty shot nowadays, but I'm pretty sure the drain plug was exactly the same as the sump plug drain plug on the engine i.e. you'll need the special tool to undo it if you don't have one. I got mine from here. Of course your 91 Turbo may have been vastly improved over the 88 RR so it may be different. You should be able to find the service/workshop manuals here or here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys!

I just had the car over the pit at a friends place to check the drain plug size(s) - engine sump and the two on the diff are the same size, somewhere between a 13mm and 14mm allen. The 14mm won't fit, but I think the 13mm is useable without damaging anything!

Cheers

Es
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,090 Posts
Not metric. 1/2" hex. You do not want to round off or jeopardize the plugs. New crush washer is recommended and give it a good snug.
Check the cost of new plugs.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top