Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums banner

21 - 40 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,935 Posts
Your eng tick sounds cam related, possibly a worn brake pump pushrod. The only way to know is to remove the pump with a special tool or......first get a pipe, pvc, long screw driver, etc, and compare the sound with the front and rear pumps. They may quiet over time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
As a complete novice, could I ask if all the plugs are a similar colour Inal?

And


whilst some use the highest octane available, with standard compression and correct timing for the fuel, is it better for the car or for consumption to use high or lower octane?
Colour of the plugs is a good question and can highlight differences between carburetor performance or fuel/air mixture and possible vacuum leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Tell me, I have when driving to knock the rear amortizers. Getting into any roughness on the track or a hole, I immediately hear the sound of the amortizers. Is it possible to atreact them or is it better to replace them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,935 Posts
The knock from the rear when going over bumps can come from several places, from shock bushings, trunk torsion rod rattling, loose jack, loose spare tire in the tray, rear torsion plate bushings, rear final drive crossmember bushings as well.
It's a process of elimination.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I read that the SW LWB was manufactured in an amount of 2780 pieces. It's true? Does this increase the cost of the car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
Tell me, I have when driving to knock the rear amortizers. Getting into any roughness on the track or a hole, I immediately hear the sound of the amortizers. Is it possible to atreact them or is it better to replace them?
I think you're referring to what we call shock absorbers or dampers. They can't be repaired, replacement is the only option. Maybe you have a broken spring? While changing shock absorbers it's usually advisable to renew springs too. Also, the metal spring cups on the suspension trailing arm are prone to rust and may need to be cut off and new ones welded in. Also, the rear suspension has hydraulic rams that adjust the ride height when there's weight in the trunk or passengers in the rear seat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Tomorrow I have a trip of 700 km. Is it worth it to drive a car with such a knock?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
The workshop manual for your car TSD2476 is available to download for free on the Australian RR Forum. I think you need to solve the mechanical problems before going for a long drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The workshop manual for your car TSD2476 is available to download for free on the Australian RR Forum. I think you need to solve the mechanical problems before going for a long drive.
If it is not difficult, give a link to the manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
I don't know how to give a link but if you Google "Australian RR Forums" or "TSD2476" you'll probably find the manual. Maybe someone else on this forum can send you the link, I'm from a pre-internet generation.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
195 Posts
This is the tool necessary for removing the brake pumps:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
The roof doesn't recline here. It's not a convertible.
I didn't say it was a convertible, the Ever-flex top refers to the vinyl, or what ever it is, cover on the roof of the car.
I've never seen a LWB version that doesn't have this, although if requested RR would certainly paint it for you.

Having one in good condition is rare, most have been cooked by the sun and have shrunk, exposing the metal around the edges.
Numerous rust bubbles can appear around the bottom of the rear windshield as well as the front.
These will appear as bumps under the vinyl.

Given the condition of the leather and the fact that it's not faded or cracked, other then what is normal age, it must have been kept in a garage all it's life and out of the sun and weather.
Even the black upper dash looks pristine !
Most are deteriorated to some degree.

Get some hide food on there now just to take care of the normal wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
Engine oil = 20/50 or 10/40, atomic transmission fluid and power steering fluid = Dexron 11. Brake fluid = Castrol RR363 DOT3 which is specially formulated for RR Silver Shadow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,243 Posts
Personnally I will not drive the car with this noise.
Open hydraulic pump with Kelly key, check for tie rod first and clean pump.

Also , make sure your pressure lights comes when you put the key in second position before starting, your brake accumulators may be broken .

Oil, I sugest to start with 10 W40, good quality , such as half synthetic, then you will see your consumption.
Fuel : put the best quality, 100 octane is great
transmission : dexron III ( suffixe H if you find it ) but not above ( no Dexron VI...) , same for power sterring

There are some significant works on your car to make it reliable and enjoy it
Patience, otherwise you may increase issues.
COngratulations for bringing it to Russia
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
When I turn the ignition key to the second position, both lights on both sides of the key light up. And when I start the car, they go out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Tell me, is there any gaskets in the pump that need to be changed or is it enough to clean it? To replace the candles, what needs to be disassembled?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,243 Posts
Start the engine, let it run 6 minutes, even iddling or drive a little.
Then stop the engine,
Then put the key on second position and pump on the brake like for full stop and check how many brake pumps are necessary to light the first brake pressure light in the center I think on your car. Then report the number here.

Yes, there are o ring in the brake pump, but you need to check push rod
look here , you may need some of those seals

brake pump parts

seals

push rod , which is the link between the engine came shaft and the brake pump and might be involved in your noise
this is a second hand, they used to sell only the push rod before
Push rod is a the top of the image
 
21 - 40 of 45 Posts
Top