Oil leak towards the rear of the engine
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Hi mine has a tiny leak from the sump gasket, but I can't find any socket or spanner that I can get on the bolts above the cross member 😮😳, any suggestions?
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
Check indeed if rocker cover bolts are not loose.
Its worth double checking and not so difficult on turbo engine without intercooler
Check also for electric oil gauge seal,, prone to leak, but do not overtight.
Finally mayke sure this is not LHM from a pump, because that's a classic too, even we new seals ( wrong / bad quality)
Its worth double checking and not so difficult on turbo engine without intercooler
Check also for electric oil gauge seal,, prone to leak, but do not overtight.
Finally mayke sure this is not LHM from a pump, because that's a classic too, even we new seals ( wrong / bad quality)
To change the sump gasket is not all that bad. I remove radiator fan blades, so the engine can be jacked up from underneath. I remove the front engine cross member, so a jack can be put where the cross member bolts to the engine, undo the rear engine mounts. Another jack under the bell housing then engine can move back a little to get at the rear sump bolts easily.
The engine will jack up high enough remove the sump but the worst part is undoing the bolts on the oil suction strainer pipe, sump will not come off without the oil strainer coming with it, but that`s it.
No need to touch the steering rack at all.
Difficult to estimate how long the job takes but easily done in a day.
Jake.
The engine will jack up high enough remove the sump but the worst part is undoing the bolts on the oil suction strainer pipe, sump will not come off without the oil strainer coming with it, but that`s it.
No need to touch the steering rack at all.
Difficult to estimate how long the job takes but easily done in a day.
Jake.
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718 Posts
Factory shop time is 7.75 hours to replace the sump gasket.
Well, I am not as old and slow as I thought, this is roughly the time I take to replace the sump gasket. Thanks for that Jim.
Yes, when all the sump bolts are out there is a gap of about 2" or so that allows the small bolts to be accessed, then the sump will come right off for cleaning etc. I probably made it sound a worse job than it is.
I do not know if the way I have described engine sump removal is "by the book" as I have never looked it up. This is the way I have successfully done them.
Jake.
Also, it would pay to change the "o" rings on the oil suction pipe, there are two, which will become apparent when the sump is off. There is a straight section of suction tube with an "o" ring on each end.
Looking at an old invoice they were Part No. UA13401
Jake.
Looking at an old invoice they were Part No. UA13401
Jake.
Do not know if you have tried to tighten the rear sump bolts a little?
They are often quite loose as they are difficult to get to. Loosen the front bolts where the front of the engine sits on the front engine mount then sometimes the engine will pry back enough to get a 1/4 drive socket and extension bar on to them. Perhaps slacken the gearbox mounts as well. Might be worth a try as that would not take many minutes to check.
Jake.
They are often quite loose as they are difficult to get to. Loosen the front bolts where the front of the engine sits on the front engine mount then sometimes the engine will pry back enough to get a 1/4 drive socket and extension bar on to them. Perhaps slacken the gearbox mounts as well. Might be worth a try as that would not take many minutes to check.
Jake.
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