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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I am new to the forum, but I have been reading the various posts and there are is some great advice being given, so I am hoping someone can help me.
The story so far, I purchased an 83' Silver Spirit as a non-runner, I replaced the coil, 2nd hand from Ebay, it started up on the turn of the key! it was running lumpy, so I gave it a little gas, it cut out! and would not restart.
I thought maybe the coil was at fault, so this time ordered a new one, flamethrower II as they are selling on Flying spares, whilst waiting for the coil, I thought I would check to see why running lumpy, 2 of the HT leads were in the wrong order! The new coil arrived, fitted, still no spark!
Then I am thinking the ignition amplifier, purchased a new old stock AB14, still no spark! Now I am thinking the magnetic pickup maybe at fault? I cant get the damn base plate out though to look at it properly or replace it.
So I guess 2 items I need help with:
1 - An idea why this is not sparking? 11.8v at the coil, 9.5v when cranking.
2- If the pick up is not activating the amp, then how do I remove it? I can get the circlip off, then a thin copper washer, but then then what? how does the reluctor come off? there is a rubber seal, is that holding it in place?
Chassis No = 07661
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Mike,

Dartford, Kent.

I am just rigging up some crocodile clips to a bulb, hopefully the wife will let me back outside for a tinker.

Cheers
Darren
 

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I see you are throwing money at the issue, and with some luck, trying to cure the problem.
How do you know the Opus is bad? BTW you do not need a Flamethrower on these cars. Did you buy the right coil..ohms? Double check the plug leads and if original, they should be replaced anyway.
Here is the firing order
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I see you are throwing money at the issue, and with some luck, trying to cure the problem.
How do you know the Opus is bad? BTW you do not need a Flamethrower on these cars. Did you buy the right coil..ohms? Double check the plug leads and if original, they should be replaced anyway.
Here is the firing order
Hi Wraithman, The firing order you attached is the one I have worked to, so I know that is in order now, I bought the flamethrower as it was an option on the Flying spares website, I suppose I thought it might give that little extra omph, it is 0.6ohms rather than the usual 1.5ohms, I think the leads will need replacing for sure, but I just want to get a damn spark out of the coil so I know she is alive!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Where about in the world are you?
I wonder what is happening the other side of the coil? any pulse?
Mike
Mike,
I am not not getting any pulse whilst cranking, is there a way of distinguishing between and issue with Amplifier, or distributer pick up problem?
Cheers
Darren
 

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Distributor and lead from the coil are the primary things to check, I think.
 

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Hi Darren
Well you fitted the wrong coil and probably blown the amp, thats a ballast resistor coil you fitted not a 12v ok
You need to star again with known good correct parts.
hope that helps
Mike
 

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Here are some instructions I have posted previously to narrow down ignition faults:
First thing to do is to check for spark at a plug lead, then spark at coil lead. If no spark at plug but spark at coil lead - rotor is faulty. If no spark at plug and no spark at plug lead - coil or module faulty. To determine which, attach a 12 volt test light to negative low tension terminal of coil. Have someone crank over the engine, if light flashes quickly the module is working trying to fire the coil - coil is faulty. If light doesn't flash the ignition module is faulty. These tests are assuming you have confirmed there is power at the positive low tension terminal of the coil.
Also to confirm a rotor is faulty, remove cap, remove coil lead from cap, hold end of coil lead to within an eighth inch of the centre of the rotor with gloves or insulated pliers. Have someone crank over the engine. If the sparks jump to the centre of the rotor the rotor is faulty. A spark SHOULD NOT jump to the rotor if it is good. Rotors can function fine when cold, short out when hot, and have intermittent symptoms. We see faulty rotors fairly often, especially aftermarket ones.
You need to post a picture of your ignition module to determine which type it is. Stock was the Lucas Opus, they do fail with age. The above test will narrow it down. If it has been replaced with a Crane ignition module, they would burn out if the key was left on too long without the engine running. Using too hot of a coil with the stock Lucas cap and rotor can cause flashover in the cap and misfiring. With a coil of .6 Ω you will burn the coil out if it is connected to full battery voltage without a ballast resistor.
 

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Hi, I am new to the forum, but I have been reading the various posts and there are is some great advice being given, so I am hoping someone can help me.
The story so far, I purchased an 83' Silver Spirit as a non-runner, I replaced the coil, 2nd hand from Ebay, it started up on the turn of the key! it was running lumpy, so I gave it a little gas, it cut out! and would not restart.
I thought maybe the coil was at fault, so this time ordered a new one, flamethrower II as they are selling on Flying spares, whilst waiting for the coil, I thought I would check to see why running lumpy, 2 of the HT leads were in the wrong order! The new coil arrived, fitted, still no spark!
Then I am thinking the ignition amplifier, purchased a new old stock AB14, still no spark! Now I am thinking the magnetic pickup maybe at fault? I cant get the damn base plate out though to look at it properly or replace it.
So I guess 2 items I need help with:
1 - An idea why this is not sparking? 11.8v at the coil, 9.5v when cranking.
2- If the pick up is not activating the amp, then how do I remove it? I can get the circlip off, then a thin copper washer, but then then what? how does the reluctor come off? there is a rubber seal, is that holding it in place?
Chassis No = 07661
Hi BigG,

I'm also new to Rolls so I won't even try BUT you might find this useful. I bought my Mulsanne last week to enjoy. I found the workshop manual set rather good at explaining things. This board and Jim Walters response are excellent resources. Before I spend one penny or one minute doing something I try to understand how things are supposed to work in a system. This comes from doing lots of late model Mercedes. I would be COMPLETELY toast if I didn't understand how the car was supposed to work. The computer just tells me what it thinks is broken. I'm like you and get focused on a problem and sometimes forget to depower the microscope and remember my point in the first place. Not trying to be coy - I enjoyed the door panels today because I figured out how to do it before I touched them or spent one penny on window switches, motors, et al. Zapper.
 

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This is
Here are some instructions I have posted previously to narrow down ignition faults:
First thing to do is to check for spark at a plug lead, then spark at coil lead. If no spark at plug but spark at coil lead - rotor is faulty. If no spark at plug and no spark at plug lead - coil or module faulty. To determine which, attach a 12 volt test light to negative low tension terminal of coil. Have someone crank over the engine, if light flashes quickly the module is working trying to fire the coil - coil is faulty. If light doesn't flash the ignition module is faulty. These tests are assuming you have confirmed there is power at the positive low tension terminal of the coil.
Also to confirm a rotor is faulty, remove cap, remove coil lead from cap, hold end of coil lead to within an eighth inch of the centre of the rotor with gloves or insulated pliers. Have someone crank over the engine. If the sparks jump to the centre of the rotor the rotor is faulty. A spark SHOULD NOT jump to the rotor if it is good. Rotors can function fine when cold, short out when hot, and have intermittent symptoms. We see faulty rotors fairly often, especially aftermarket ones.
You need to post a picture of your ignition module to determine which type it is. Stock was the Lucas Opus, they do fail with age. The above test will narrow it down. If it has been replaced with a Crane ignition module, they would burn out if the key was left on too long without the engine running. Using too hot of a coil with the stock Lucas cap and rotor can cause flashover in the cap and misfiring. With a coil of .6 Ω you will burn the coil out if it is connected to full battery voltage without a ballast resistor.
The most succinct test procedure for these cars i have ever seen. Thanks. I have seen the carbon button in the cap fail in these cars. This is very frustrating.
 
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