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Rock Auto also ships world wide and that same thermostat is available from them for quite a bit less then the £31.
Something that small doesn't cost that much to ship if you don't mind the wait _ just a thought.

GATES 33218 Thermostat | RockAuto

Isdyl, make sure and test it on the stove with your old one as a reference.
I had a TR7 once, as you know was a very poorly designed engine that was prone to overheating.
I went through 4 Gates defective thermostats that failed to open on the stove.
Testing is a must.
 

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Does anyone know a part number for the thermostat seal for a NAPA 136. I'm assuming a Stant or Gates one would fit. I can't find one anywhere. I note the Gates 33218 also appears to come without the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Yes I'm going to need a seal - I haven't thought about that yet! I'm also not finished researching thermostats as there are other routes yet to be followed. Behr/Mahle TX 17 80D for one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Rock Auto also ships world wide and that same thermostat is available from them for quite a bit less then the £31.
Something that small doesn't cost that much to ship if you don't mind the wait _ just a thought.

GATES 33218 Thermostat | RockAuto

Isdyl, make sure and test it on the stove with your old one as a reference.
I had a TR7 once, as you know was a very poorly designed engine that was prone to overheating.
I went through 4 Gates defective thermostats that failed to open on the stove.
Testing is a must.
Thanks - I think this one is probably coming from the US too via Amazon judging by the delivery time (10 days). That £31 is a delivered cost though so probably about the same. Good advice re testing it too thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·

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O rings are like bearings. There are common standard sizes by number code and useage. Google O ring chart. It can be helpful knowing what stock sizes are available based on your measurements.
 

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Oh yes - must have been the Acetone/ATF! Still waiting for the thermostat and looks like I’ll probably have to make a gasket and the rubber seal.
I think that bit of heat helped as well, more then you know.
From my experience, it doesn't matter how good the penetrating oil is, no matter what the mix, heat is key.
Looked like you ultimately used some vice-grips to get it out ?
With that said, I will try the Acetone/ATF next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Hi - I just thought I'd update you. The Gates thermostat arrived and I tested it in a pan which was all good. I fitted it with the 70mm OD o ring after topping up coolant into thermostat housing, and then filled slowly into the reservoir. She started and once the stat opened air started appearing in the reservoir as bubbles. I screwed on the cap and ran for a while - maybe 20 minutes. When it cooled I checked the level and she took anther 2 litres of coolant so there must have been an air lock somewhere. I'm going to run her again this morning and see if any more coolant is needed. Fingers crossed.
 

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It sounds like it's acting correctly with a proper functioning thermostat.
Adding 2 litres is normal, it will continue to use smaller and smaller amounts until it stops.
Burping (squeezing and releasing) the hoses as it warms up also helps to get rid of trapped air in the system.
The heating and cooling down cycles will eventually expel all the air and topping up the coolant will no longer be necessary.
2 to 3 cycles usually does it, that's with any car.
Take it for a few spins a round the block so the water pump has a chance to run fast enough to work the air to the top.
Check it again after a long highway drive. (can't check it enough)
I always check it once a week after a coolant change for quite a while, even after it's settled down, but I'm paranoid.
After a very long period of time, I begin to trust things.

It still wouldn't hurt to go through and torque the heads down again in sequence. (when cold of course)
 

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Suggestion...leave the heads alone, no need to re-torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
It looks as though I celebrated too soon - I am burning coolant and it is miss firing on cylinder A3. I put a camera down A3 plughole and it is wet inside - this is the same cylinder that was waterlogged when I started. So I'm back to square one. So, the question is - do give up and sell on as a project, or keep at it. I'll have to sleep on it.
 

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The cylinder you scoped may also appear cleaner due to the steam cleaning effect.
 

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You can learn a few lessons from this endeavor. If it looks ok..you have been fooled. This happens all the time with visuals. The most important part of rebuilding is measuring. You need a Starret straight edge to check the deck the mating surface of the head and the straightness of the top of the head where the rocker arms go. Why the top measurement? Simple, Head may have been previously warped and then decked, leaving the top half curved, putting stress on the rocker bearings. It's all about measuring. It can save you time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Agreed. I think I was a bit slap-dash with it. I saw that the old heads were wrecked and only roughly checked the new ones. However I'm more concerned it's an issue with something I'm less familiar with like liners. Too much of a coincidence that it was the same cylinder that's getting coolant ingress. I hate giving up on a project - I just need a few days to think about it and get enthusiasm back. It would be too easy to just get a replacement engine - the car would loose it's originality. It's just a 79,000 mile car and is far too good to scrap. I'm not too bothered about the time, but those head gaskets are expensive!
 

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Evidence of liner seal(s) failure would be apparent at the weep holes on the side of the block. Highly recommend viewing Ronny Shaver's Youtube vid regarding SY blocks. His S/N is Rollsrouyenut. The weep holes are discussed.
 
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