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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Have you tried soaking it with a 50/50 mix of ATF/ACETONE (methylated spirit) and leaving it for a few hours to penetrate?
I hadn't actually but just have now thanks. I had to use Meths and ATF as no Acetone available. I had been using a WD40 product called Specialist Release fluid or similar. I'll leave the ATF mixture on it until later today.
 

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Thank you for your very kind offers. I'll do a bit more phoning around on Monday just to see if I've missed anywhere. Equally if there is anything available in UK that anyone is struggling with I'm happy to post over the pond too. Just let me know.
Also am I right in thinking that when the thermostat opens, the plate pushes down and blocks the bypass tube at the bottom? So running it without a thermostat would be a bad idea?

I'm still very patiently trying to remove this stud, but it's becoming clearer that ultimately I'm going to end up having to drill it out. I've managed to put a thread on it using a die and locked a couple of nuts on it. Still gently wiggling it and using penetrating oil. I applied a bit of heat with the propane torch but even with plenty of protective boards around it I got scared of melting something.
View attachment 30858
Have you tried Jim's and Wraithman's method, Jim's method will probably be the most effective, but you need some serious heat for that, and that can only come from an oxy-acetylene tourch ?
There are jobbers with portable oxy-acetylene torches that will come to the house, they will have experience with such things too.
You're not going to melt anything with a propane torch, especially with all the heat being dissipated from the coolant in there.
Get rid as much coolant as possible with a turkey baster and rag, a propane tourch is much hotter then aluminum, but so much heat is lost in the air and dissipated through the aluminum housing, it won't melt.

If you follow Jim's instructions, all the heat is on the stud, not on the housing, but you have to get rid of the coolant.
About drilling it out, that's just not a good idea, if you must, get a drill that cuts counter-clockwise, but from my experience, it's almost impossible to remove enough material from the stud to get it out with out keeping the bit perfectly centered and drilling into the housing.
You need to make a jig out of a thick steel on a drill press, and that is bolted down on the housing to keep the drill bit true while you're drilling _ doing it by hand is a recipe for disaster.
Getting a stud out of aluminum is challenging, it's not like steel on steel where heating turns the rust to black dust and breaks the bond.
Heat on aluminum oxide does very little to break the bond, but it's all you have, even with the best penetrating oil, very little if any will get down into the threads.
With that said, heat the tip of the stud up as much as possible, and then let it completely cool down as Jim said.
Add what ever concoction of oil what you like and try again.

Yes, running it with out a thermostat is a bad idea, you would lose maximum cooling when needed.
How's the rad, are the veins all open ?
Cars that have been neglected and abused, very often the rad is all blocked up.

Here's Jim's post again, call someone with a portable welder that can come and do this for you, if you don't have the equipment or if you're not comfortable doing it your self.

New project
 

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Isgyl

Yes you are right - it's a really bad idea to run without a thermostat as the lower plate shuts off the bypass hose as the thermostat opens. There is a great article describing this in tee-one topics - volume 95, page 1285.


Regards the stud, patience is the word. I took 2 days soaking a caliper bolt with WD40 every couple of hours - it eventually came free. At the time I did not know of the ATF/Acetone mix.
 

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There are several methods to try....chemical, heat, and one of my favorites is shock or vibration. Add good penetrating agent around the stud. Take a nail set or similiar and place in the center of the broken stud and tap away.....light to medium taps are best. It's the vibration you want. I would replace the propane with MAP gas and try to expand the housing around the stud this time. You can also use a mini torch which I find handy around stubborn brake line fittings. Let it cool down because its the change in temp that upsets the corrosion..
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Great advise thanks. I was actually more worried about melting any wires or rubber items in the area. I do have a mig welder so that will be my next attempt possibly tomorrow. The thread and nuts idea I had previously didn't work as the new thread was too weak and the nut just started spinning. I have had this exact thing happen before and I did drill and tap it successfully, but that may have been luck!
I have read that thermostats for a BMW M30 engine are the same, and that has been suggested to be true on a couple of sales sites I've found. There's also these - made in China and £65 still a bit steep. TRE Products on ebay. They state opening at 88 degrees C but they also have some on their web site at 78 degrees for £78.

Theres a sealing ring needed also for some thermostats apparently which I've read about in some forum posts from about 10 years ago otherwise the thermostat rattles around.
 

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I'm not sure about using the ATF/methylated spirit mix. I'm open to correction on this. Acetone is readily available here in the US at any pharmacists - it's used as nail varnish remover. Should be the same in the UK - try Boots Chemist's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Ok I'll try and get some tomorrow. I'm happy to take as long as it takes with this - I'm not in business fixing these cars and it's all fun really. The Meths/ATF solution was quite thick actually and took some mixing to get it to combine.
 

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The stant on my car came with a sealing ring but it was slightly over-sized. Took about 30 mins to reduce the diameter using some 400 wet and dry paper for a perfect fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
The Stant and the Napa are drawing a blank so far over here but it would be interesting and very handy if the information regarding the BMW M30 engine turns out to be positive as there are many M30 engined BMW's over here.
 

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Find a glassfibre supply company. They'll have Acetone.

Alternatively the purple stuff you put on PVC pipe to prime it before glueing is usually MEK (which is essentially Acetone that costs more and evaporates less).
 

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Meths/acetone won't work as well, acetone is used to thin the ATF so it can creep down into the tightest of spaces so it must mix easily and not separate. You have a MIG welder, so use it, but remove the threaded on nuts and place a larger nut that will fall easily over the stud as you want to get some weld down the inside of the nut onto the stud. For it to work even better use a countersink to open the nut up like a funnel so you can get a really good weld to the stud. Resist the temptation to try loosening it before it is stone cold . Quick and easy. Use some sheet metal to make a heat shield to protect wiring etc, cut open a tin can if you don't have any metal lying around. Or soak some cotton cloth, only 100% cotton, in water and use that wet to protect wiring etc. MIG is absolutely the best as it won't spread heat around to other components like oxy acetylene.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I found some acetone so will just give that a chance tonight before I get out the mig.

In terms of thermostats, I can see from other posts that a reasonably priced replacement in the UK is hard to find. The Stant and the Napa don't seem to be available, but I read somewhere that a Gates 33218 would work? I haven't found that either but it appears on a list of equivalents for a Vemo 20-99-1256. It seems like a lot of effort to save a few quid I know! The Vemo is £23 and is listed for a BMW M30 engine. Is anyone able to confirm that Gates number as an option please?

  • BECK/ARNLEY: 143-0545
  • BEHR: 2.060.80, 2.060.80.304
  • BORGWARNER (WAHLER): 4231.80D
  • CALORSTAT BY VERNET: 1528.80, TH1528.80J
  • FAE: 5342580
  • FEBI BILSTEIN: 01596
  • FIRST LINE: FTS188.80
  • GATES: 33218, TH01682G1
  • INTERMOTOR: 75013
  • MAHLE: TX 17 75D, TX 17 80D
  • MOTORAD: 246-80
  • QUINTON HAZELL: QTH125
  • TRISCAN: 8620 3082
  • VALEO: 819887
  • VEMO: 20-99-1256
 

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I buy it in England on Ebay - 1 litre for about 8GBP, 5 litres for about 18GBP. At that price it is used for cleaning all sorts of mucky car parts.

It is sometimes found even cheaper at car shows, as cellulose thinners.

Alan D.
 

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Al (alabbasi) has identified a BMW thermostat that crosses over and works correctly, hopefully he will chime in. It's probably the one for the M30 engine. I have not bothered to look myself as I can easily get the Gates one locally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited by Moderator)
No, I use the Gates 13558. NOTE: I posted this number incorrectly but have corrected the post above hence the reply by Robert below.
That's really strange, unless they are very similar. The Gates 33218 is listed for a load or RR and BMW vehicles here:

 
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