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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That’s a great idea - I saw that location suggested before somewhere - I will fit that to SRH14914 and SRH15705. Did you find a gauge/sender on eBay or similar please, and where have you mounted the gauge? Regards Dylan
 

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But yeah, the overheat sensor is worthless anyway. By the time it goes off it's generally too late.
And I, too, agree with this.

One of the things that mystifies me is why Crewe didn't fix this. There has to be a sensor that would go off well before catastrophic damage has already occurred.

I'm also shocked that the RR/Bentley community has not figured out what could be substituted to behave as an actual early, but not too early, warning substitute for the sensor originally fitted.
 

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Hi Dylan

I bought the temperature gauge as a kit with the sender from a motor factors here in the US called Pep-boys. I'd looked at several at other stores but the one I chose had the most period look. There's a large choice out there so it's just a case of finding one you like.

I mounted the gauge where the loudspeaker balance switch was located, since this switch was redundant on my car. Other owners have used different locations - it's a matter of personal preference.

The only thing I'd change if I carried out this mod again would be to choose a smaller gauge - I had to bore a larger hole in the wooden back panel than I'd liked to have done (it impinged on the wiper switch cover) and the wiring at the rear of the gauge was tight. I'd bought a 2 1/16" gauge which is the standard size - there are smaller ones out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I think that looks really good. I’ve been driving SRH14914 around without any thought of overheating warning - I have no idea if the buzzer works either but I will check.
 

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I thought of taking that option but decided I quite liked the clock. But here's the thing - I've since fitted a master switch in the trunk of my car and switch the electrics off every time I put the car in the garage. This means the clock has to be reset every time I take the car out, something I never bother to do, so the clock is now redundant. It would be far more useful to fit the dual gauge. Ah well - I'm stuck with my solution now.

I think a master shutoff switch is really advisable on these cars, given the wiring is now 40-50 years old.
 

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I think a master shutoff switch is really advisable on these cars, given the wiring is now 40-50 years old.
I agree, but wonder if a switch is necessary. Unless something's different with the SY1 versus SY2 ground connection from the battery, it's connected to the car body by a wingnut that's very easily accessible, or at least it is to me.

I just twirl that little thing off and lay it in the boot/trunk directly below the end of the cable that's now disconnected.

I did use a switch in the past, but it was a bigger PITA (and also screw operated) than just doing what I noted above.
 

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The clock problem can be solved by having a small-value fuse or overload cut-out in parallel with the switch. Some switches are available with a built-in fuse to allow electronic memories and such to be maintained - essential for many "modern" cars. However, if an attempt is made to start the car with the switch off the fuse will blow/trip. Then the switch has to be turned on and the fuse/cut-out replaced/reset and the clock adjusted.

A good solution?

Alan D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hello - so we have now bought and swapped the left hand head as it was also warped and I have solved the issue of the head sensor. Basically both heads are the same apart from the sensor and the seller sent us the wrong one first! I’ll need to extend the wire. Interesting that they are not handed and also that a Shadow 2 head fits an earlier engine. It’s not proven yet though as we haven’t got it running. Will let you know. Dylan
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hi all! So yesterday we started her up and she sounded great. I have a few exhaust leaks which I’m attending to this weekend, but everything seems to be fine. I can confirm that heads from S2 will work fine on S1 cars.
My only niggle is that the wipers won’t stop running! I’ve done some searches and I’m thinking this is maybe the ‘park off screen’ relay - could someone please tell me where the wiper relays are located on a ‘73 S1 please? Thanks, Dylan
 

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Do not overtighten your exhaust manifold bolts. The manifolds expand and thats the reason for the elongated holes. However due to the low torque setting for the bolts, they tend to get loose after time.
 

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Hi Dylan

Here's a quick overview of the wiper system to help you fault find.

The following applies to series 1 cars only. The series 2 are configured differently.

My car is a 74 S1 so very close to yours. The wiper motor should be a Lucas 16W

There is only one relay which is located under the top roll and part of the screen wiper control unit. Since your wipers are running I doubt this is the cause.

The most probable cause of the wipers running continuously, even when switched off, is a faulty on screen park switch.

The wiper unit contains 2 switches. I've denoted them A and B in the pics below.

A = off screen park switch

B= on screen park switch.

There is a raised section of the wiper gear wheel that pushes the on screen park switch every revolution. When the wiper switch on the dash panel is turned off the wiper continues to run until this switch is depressed. At this point the switch sends a signal to the control relay which reverses the polarity of the motor causing it to run in reverse. This reverse motion extends the wiper connecting rod which pushes the off screen park switch (A) after about half a revolution. This is the action that parks the wipers off screen. The off screen park switch is ultimately the on/off switch for the entire unit.

So, if the on screen park switch is faulty it will not send the signal to the control unit and will remain on at all times.

There are other potential causes - it could be, as you suspect, the relay gone faulty, but I would start at the wiper switches, if only because they are much more accessible than the control relay.

Unfortunately, the switches are no longer available. I searched everywhere for one but had no luck. If anyone knows of a source I'd be interested to hear about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
That is a great explanation thank you very much - the best and clearest info I’ve read! I’ll have a good look at it today.
The exhaust leak is actually a joint where the A bank manifold meets the down pipe - I’m just struggling to get it to seal. Also there is a hole nearer the bottom - I think I need a new pipe really.
 

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The exhaust system uses seals that are metal and rust. The pitting can be a problem in regard to sealing. The seals are called olives. Kelly at British Tool Works makes them in stainless steel. I have them in my cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thanks. I’ve seen the olives in the system when I did the joint near the centre box. Is there an olive used where the down pipe meets the exhaust manifold please? I’ve had the clamp off but can’t move the pipe away enough to see if there is one, or if the pipe simply clamps to the manifold. D
 

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Wherever you have 2 "flared pipe ends in the system there will be an olive held together by a robust cast metal clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thanks - I must need more paste and tighten it up more then. Really I need a complete new system, but will use what I have until she's running reliably.
 

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if it may have been running when coolant dumped in, you may do a check of piston height with the heads off, if one doesnt come ip all the way it could have a bent rod or a squashed rod bearing
 
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