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Hi Dylan

It can be quite helpful to check out the parts manual to see if different part numbers are used for series 1 and 2 cars. The series 2 cars had extensive emission control features which may have impacted the head design for the later cars. Hopefully one of the professionals on this site may be able to help.

 

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You could try giving Flying Spares a call. They may have both in stock and could do a comparison.
 

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Dylan

I get where you're coming from and it could save you a few thousand pounds or prevent it from becoming a parts car (depending on the overall condition). Best of luck and fingers crossed.

Let us know how it turns out.
 

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I agree with Jeyjey.

I fitted a temperature gauge on SRX18501 and it is the best mod I ever fitted. I found the best place for the temperature sensor was in the inlet manifold (which is coolant cooled). I removed the triangular plate, drilled and threaded it and fitted the sensor there.
 

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Hi Dylan

I bought the temperature gauge as a kit with the sender from a motor factors here in the US called Pep-boys. I'd looked at several at other stores but the one I chose had the most period look. There's a large choice out there so it's just a case of finding one you like.

I mounted the gauge where the loudspeaker balance switch was located, since this switch was redundant on my car. Other owners have used different locations - it's a matter of personal preference.

The only thing I'd change if I carried out this mod again would be to choose a smaller gauge - I had to bore a larger hole in the wooden back panel than I'd liked to have done (it impinged on the wiper switch cover) and the wiring at the rear of the gauge was tight. I'd bought a 2 1/16" gauge which is the standard size - there are smaller ones out there.
 

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I thought of taking that option but decided I quite liked the clock. But here's the thing - I've since fitted a master switch in the trunk of my car and switch the electrics off every time I put the car in the garage. This means the clock has to be reset every time I take the car out, something I never bother to do, so the clock is now redundant. It would be far more useful to fit the dual gauge. Ah well - I'm stuck with my solution now.

I think a master shutoff switch is really advisable on these cars, given the wiring is now 40-50 years old.
 

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Hi Dylan

Here's a quick overview of the wiper system to help you fault find.

The following applies to series 1 cars only. The series 2 are configured differently.

My car is a 74 S1 so very close to yours. The wiper motor should be a Lucas 16W

There is only one relay which is located under the top roll and part of the screen wiper control unit. Since your wipers are running I doubt this is the cause.

The most probable cause of the wipers running continuously, even when switched off, is a faulty on screen park switch.

The wiper unit contains 2 switches. I've denoted them A and B in the pics below.

A = off screen park switch

B= on screen park switch.

There is a raised section of the wiper gear wheel that pushes the on screen park switch every revolution. When the wiper switch on the dash panel is turned off the wiper continues to run until this switch is depressed. At this point the switch sends a signal to the control relay which reverses the polarity of the motor causing it to run in reverse. This reverse motion extends the wiper connecting rod which pushes the off screen park switch (A) after about half a revolution. This is the action that parks the wipers off screen. The off screen park switch is ultimately the on/off switch for the entire unit.

So, if the on screen park switch is faulty it will not send the signal to the control unit and will remain on at all times.

There are other potential causes - it could be, as you suspect, the relay gone faulty, but I would start at the wiper switches, if only because they are much more accessible than the control relay.

Unfortunately, the switches are no longer available. I searched everywhere for one but had no luck. If anyone knows of a source I'd be interested to hear about it.
 

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I've just had a look round (in the US) and all the usual sites have sold out. Napa have the 136 equivalent in stock so I panic bought one for the future - 24 bucks. Interesting thing is when I input my vehicle details (74 SS1) it actually said it was a guaranteed fit - they must have read Brian's resource file.

Isdyl - if you can't find one in the UK I'll ship one to you.
 

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Isgyl

Yes you are right - it's a really bad idea to run without a thermostat as the lower plate shuts off the bypass hose as the thermostat opens. There is a great article describing this in tee-one topics - volume 95, page 1285.


Regards the stud, patience is the word. I took 2 days soaking a caliper bolt with WD40 every couple of hours - it eventually came free. At the time I did not know of the ATF/Acetone mix.
 

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I'm not sure about using the ATF/methylated spirit mix. I'm open to correction on this. Acetone is readily available here in the US at any pharmacists - it's used as nail varnish remover. Should be the same in the UK - try Boots Chemist's.
 

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The stant on my car came with a sealing ring but it was slightly over-sized. Took about 30 mins to reduce the diameter using some 400 wet and dry paper for a perfect fit.
 

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Does anyone know a part number for the thermostat seal for a NAPA 136. I'm assuming a Stant or Gates one would fit. I can't find one anywhere. I note the Gates 33218 also appears to come without the seal.
 

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Hi Isdyl

Take a break and then continue. Removing the A bank head will be much easier second time round as you will have picked up expertise and you won't have to deal with stubborn bolts etc. I've been here myself - I reconditioned the brake system - accumulators/acvs, reservoir, pumps, flexible brake hoses only to find I'd got a leak on the front acv. I had to drain off the whole system again, remove the acv/accumulator and refit and re-bleed the whole system again. It's part of the joy of owning these cars.
 
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