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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So went out today filled her up with £99 of super plus unleaded and on way home sitting at around 50mph it suddenly started so sound like 2 very large ball bearings in a can.
pulled over turned her off but sounds VERY VERY terminally ill
it sounds top end but until I pull it I won’t know for sure
no smoke and was still running so not thrown a rod but she’s now down on cylinders and something very wrong.
 

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Don't rule out a thrown rod. I had a car throw one once and keep running, but I was in the driveway and moving very slowly when it happened.

My condolences, though. No matter what this is it's clearly going to be both very serious and very expensive to repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yer your right not ruling out anything at the moment but I’ll pull the engine and box out next week and have a look
 

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Pull the coil wires, so it won't run. This way you can ping the starter and get a few revolutions and perhaps control any real major damage. Interesting to see what develops.
 

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You could pull plugs and it's less of a load for the starter/battery.
It may also be part of the diagnostic path with a compression check.
One thing is certain...it's not a timing chain or timing belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Whipped the rocker covers off no damage to them but the noise is sounding big end/mains. Tried this morning to remove the sump but as usual hrs of work just to get to the sump. Hopefully get it off tomorrow and have a look
 

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Note: disconnect the wire from the oil level sender, but do not remove the sender because...it may be a cast housing (like SY cars) which are known to deform upon removal and installation and will leak, requiring a new seal and straightening of the mounting flange of the sender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi chaps. Is it best to remove the engine and box together or remove the gearbox first. And I take it it comes out downward As the best way.
 

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That doesn't sound good...
Keeping my fingers crossed that it sounds worse than it it!

Es
 

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Took my Shadow engine out last winter. Took exhaust, gearbox, prop shaft first. Then rear adaptor flange (need to support back of engine)
All the engine bits starter, compressor, steering pump etc etc. Then lift the engine straight up. Tight but it fits.
I am in Kent so ring if you want a chat 01303 864223 (just a private enthusiast )
PS What is your car ??
PS what is car ?
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P1050880.JPG P1050880.JPG
 

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You do not have to remove the gearbox for sump removal or pull the engine for that matter. On large jobs, I drop the whole front subframe to have access to everything, especially the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok thanks for all your answers.
martin I might take you up on that. Unless your free tomorrow night from 6pm onwards. 😂
can pay fuel -all the tea /coffee -snacks you can eat /drink 😀
although with an 01303 area code your Folkestone based 😀 in in Essex
my car is an 92 Eight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ha ha looking at your flag your welcome to come and give us a hand but not paying your fuel bill 😂😂😂😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow. That was “EPIC”. It took 4 hrs to remove the gearbox alone !!! Access to some of the bolts was bad but just trying to separate the box from the engine . The dowels had corroded together we had 2 crow bars and someone pulling the box every direction it would not budge.
then there was the odd hose / wire /connection we forgot to take off.
we worked through the night but took us 12-14 hrs to get it out and onto the floor
first time doing it so doing every thing the long way but at least it’s now out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
O 100% agree. It’s 100% been out before. To many bits that are ‘not factory‘. I can’t be sure but my suspicion was raised when brackets were held on with cable ties and various plugs were missing and cable crimps replaced holding wires together
I’ll know for cert when the sump gets dropped what’s happened but I’ve removed plug A1 and it’s smashed flat
I’ll get some pics and post when I remove the sump.
new engine ordered and will be delivered Wednesday/Thursday and installation will be Thursday night once the car is fully up and running I’ll look into the old one.
 

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Smashed flat plug, my money is that the rod bolts have come loose and has allowed the piston to travel too far upwards to crush the plug,
The other thing is that the rod bearing has spun, this stops proper oil flow to that rod.
The bearing then gets pounded flat, this in turn also allows too much piston travel causing the plug to come in contact with the piston.
Oddly enough, I've seen engines with very bad spun bearings run quietly until it gets so bad until it starts to knock.

More the likely the valves have been bent on A1

Spun bearing are caused by coolant leaking into the sump and it's not the diluted oil that causes lack of lubrication, it's when the water in the coolant heats up and turns to steam in the oil.
The steam washes the oil off the bearings to the point where it longer does it's job and you have metal to metal contact.

If I'm correct, all the mains and rods are all shot to some degree, and if it's been over heated very badly to the point where the bearings are this bad, then the crank itself may even be bent.

How long have you owned this car Blue and who else may have owned it, what work has been done on the coolant system, eg. rad replacement, plugged coolant holes in the engine ?

You may want to install a new rad while you're at it when the new engine goes in, or at the very least do a proper flow test on it and make sure ALL the tubes are clear.
People just hook up a garden hose to it and if the water flows well, they assume that the rad is OK, but in reality that's a poor test.
A rad with 80% blockage will still seem ok, but it isn't, there will still seem good flow from a hose, 20% tubes will still allow plenty of water to flow from a garden hose, but it won't have enough capacity to cool the engine.
Even at 60% water will flow well and the car will run under most conditions, but give it a very hot day and along up hill highway drag with a lead foot will over heat the car.

Simple things like a new failed thermostat can cause severe damage as well.
Most people never test them in the kitchen with their old one to make sure it works, just because it's new doesn't mean that it's OK.
I've had 5 bad new Gates thermostats all off the shelf when I had a crumby TR7 many years ago.
Given that RR parts should be tested given the price of them, but people try to save money and find of-the-shelf substitutes to save a few bucks
I can pretty much guaranty that all these aftermarket products have not been tested, that's why dealer parts are usually triple the price.
 
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