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One thing is sure, the more you hesitate, the more you turn around, the less you buy .
Lets give him his chance he might suprise all of us and come back with the car and be very satisfied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #305 ·
Alabbasi, Jean, i am pumping my "cohones" just like 30 years old rr car pumps pressure in its hydraulic system. I swear i will make decision in next few days.
 

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Samo, you have yet seen a number of bad, the right one is coming ....

Are you on your way on your road to find the one waitin g for you or still talking and thinking ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #308 ·
Samo, you have yet seen a number of bad, the right one is coming ....

Are you on your way on your road to find the one waitin g for you or still talking and thinking ?
Thanks for asking, Jean. I asked a dealer form belgium to test the car (AC, brakes, any visible dent), I am sure he can be done in 5 -6 minutes. he is busy or maybe he forgot. I decided to wait because I really do not have enough courage to drive 12 hours without a break into one direction ... to be disappointed. Somehow I am putting all puzzles together. So I am putting together your thoughts, ideas and comments which can be presented in pairs (contra dictionary statements) here:

-show us that you have something in your pants, stop talking and buy something
-do not fall in love and do no make any fast decision because you will regret it

-too much thinking will turn you away of the purchase
-think well before you make any decision; do not show the seller that you like the car

-go there and test the car, make MOT
-do not expect much from a test of a car which stands still for several years

-hire an expert for RR cars if you never had a RR car, you cannot judge what is wrong with a car
-you are educated enough about RR cars now to check them, be self confident

-it is crazy to pay 24k or even more for a 30 years old RR car
-market says that current prices are just like they are, so they are reasonable

Etc.

So, it is really my turn to make a compromise of any of above statements with reality. reality is just cruel in this moment. I have made 1700 km to check two cars which looked 3 times better in pictures than in reality. Both were overpriced in my opinion, that's why I am extremely careful now. I made a big progress in last two years. Maybe some of you remember that I started a discussion about RR parts here in this forum 2 years or so ago and I even did not have a garage then. In the meantime I bought a house with nice, big and clean twin garage, so things are prospective. It is not true that I do not have "balls" to buy a RR, I just must consider your comments as much as possible. of course I am not an idiot to make things which were told me by other people just to realize their instructions. Here comes "me": I have great feeling for things I believe. I simply see that this round will not be fruitful. Somehow I decided to wait for another car, nearer to me if possible and from more responsive seller, ... for a car which was driven at least occasionally, etc. This is not an excuse for my incapacity or lack of courage. It is more a simple calculation to get as much as possible out of this RR-saga.
 

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I do understand and what you write means you have learnt.
Check also Bentley specialists, sometime you can find interesting car with some previous information and indeed a sort of warranty.
Give time to Time
 

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Check also Bentley specialists, sometime you can find interesting car with some previous information and indeed a sort of warranty

This is good advice. The specialists will know the cars and owners around you, the work done and whether the owner is interested in selling. They would want to retain the business and will likely be objective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
Thanks, Jean and Alabbasi. BTW, I even paid 11k for making an asphalt on our yard recently, just to provide optimal conditions to bring the car home. I also have a strong motif; my w140 will become wife's daily driver and I get a RR, because our two another cars are "garbage". So I really do not search for excuses. I hate to say it, but it really seems that stars are not properly aligned yet. I have learned a lot and it is not over, I did not lose hope, the saga just goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #312 ·
This is good advice. The specialists will know the cars and owners around you, the work done and whether the owner is interested in selling. They would want to retain the business and will likely be objective.
This is one specialist, not so terribly far away from me:
It seems that in the moment they do not have any car for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 ·
Is there any literature about brakes for 1980-1991 cars? So how to replace (service) brake discs, calipers, lines, hoses and pads. I did not find anything on sites which were proposed to me some time ago.
Thanks for the answers,
Samo
 

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Discussion Starter · #315 ·
Workshop manuals can be downloaded here :

Do not read the section about rear discs/bearings...
Found it, thanks. So to replace a brake disc one must remove the hub. I have read only for the rear discs, I guess for front ones is similar. If I buy a 700 Nm torque wrench and if my IQ is above 80, am I capable to replace brake discs, in theory if I can read technical english?

One more question: I can see there is a lot of electrical test devices like the one for testing the air condition, etc. Please, tell me that I do not need all this stuff in order to diagnose all different systems in these cars? My w140 is newer car and i can handle it without any scanner or mercedes diagnostic tools.

BTW, I need to hear your opinions about this: My W140 has 440k km on clock and it is 29 years old. All seats in the car are like new with small exaggertion. So let's say they are on level 9 from 10. No deep scratches, no holes or torn sections at all. Colour is uniform. What are people doing with their fat asses in these car, so the cars with 50k km on a clock look like they have over 2 or 3 million kilometers? Is leather in RR cars actually much worse than leather in MB S class? Hard to believe after reading so much about the superiority of RR leather. is there any secret which I do not know or people are just extremely careless? Probably the condition of the seats is the best criterion to estimate how the car was maintained?
 

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What are people doing with their fat asses in these car, so the cars with 50k km on a clock look like they have over 2 or 3 million kilometers? Is leather in RR cars actually much worse than leather in MB S class? Hard to believe after reading so much about the superiority of RR leather. is there any secret which I do not know or people are just extremely careless?
  1. If it's a US car, people tend to weigh more here compared to Europe (I certainly have since I moved here 20 years ago).
  2. Nice material does not necessarily translate to durable material. I suspect that polyester seats in an old 1978 Datsun 120Y will still look as crap as they did when they were brand spanking new, while full leather interiors in a Jaguar or Porsche 928 have disintegrated many years ago
  3. Cars get clocked
 

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Discussion Starter · #317 ·
  1. If it's a US car, people tend to weigh more here compared to Europe (I certainly have since I moved here 20 years ago).
  2. Nice material does not necessarily translate to durable material. I suspect that polyester seats in an old 1978 Datsun 120Y will still look as crap as they did when they were brand spanking new, while full leather interiors in a Jaguar or Porsche 928 have disintegrated many years ago
  3. Cars get clocked
i think it is not the weight which matters. Some people can ruin car's interior in 2 years, some people can drive their cars for decades and there is almost no sign of wear. i think slackness is the answer. and most probably the pH factor of the skin. i know from guitars that some people ruin guitars in couple of months, some of them make a scratch or two in 10 years. some people with "inproper" (unhealthy) pH factor of the skin ruin strings after several hours of playing. i guess leather is sensitive material.
 

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Driver seat is brings indeed usefull information on the life and car of the car.
Some car with low mileage have a destroyed driver seat, others with high mileage have a seat in good condition.
Weight is one point, but the way you care too.

Even if you should be carrefull before concluding, a driver seat in good /very condition is a good sign.
A bad seat is not necessarly a bad sign, but should be clarified.
 

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Found it, thanks. So to replace a brake disc one must remove the hub. I have read only for the rear discs, I guess for front ones is similar. If I buy a 700 Nm torque wrench and if my IQ is above 80, am I capable to replace brake discs, in theory if I can read technical english?
You will also need a 70 tons press and a few special tools.

Front discs are closer to "normal".
 

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Discussion Starter · #320 ·
You will also need a 70 tons press and a few special tools.

Front discs are closer to "normal".
I actually just look quickly into section J (final drive). So you say that rear brake disc cannot be replaced without a 70 ton press?
1) Is this press used to separate hub-disc assembly or hub itself?
2) Must the hub be disassembled into pieces in order to remove the brake disc out of the car?

I actually did not find accurate description of how to remove the brake disc yet.
 
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