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You would possibly make money changing the headlights to oblong ones by selling the round ones, easy job.
The highish milageage and service history is more important also check for rust.
The price seems high to me but don't know prices over there.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
ah yes, changing lights for square ones directly or over money exchange is a good idea. 141.000 km is a high mileage? 2 years ago I checked 85 Spirit in Germany for ca 18k EUR. No history for last 25 years and every small detail on a car was affected by someone with no big sense for mechanical engineering. The car was "run-away" one. That's why this price seems ok at first glance to me. I also have a good feeling about the seller. On the other hand, northern Italy is no good sign in terms of rust, indeed. however seller claims there is no rust on a car. I know i will find some small spots for sure and that will be the reason to take more time to consider the purchase.

The seller mentions "books" so i guess there is some history report, but I doubt situation is ideal. hand on heart, if the car is like a pearl, is it clever to not take it due to lack of books? What if it was maintained with big care and knowledge? If I take it I have no chance to get it to RR dealer. I will have to do everything on my own. And the cars in my hands last and last ... So why this cannot be true for a present owner?
 

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IMHO, I much prefer the twin headlights to the oblong ones. I think there is much more character of a Rolls Royce coming towards you with the twin headlights.
Just personal preference.

Also I think it is quite a high price for the mileage. I would expect a excellent, clean car and a full Rolls Royce service history for that money.
Good luck in your quest.

Jake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, only a service history with RR stamp on it counts? What if the car is really good looking from outside and inside and my knees will become soft?
 

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Buy a car that you can have inspected by a RR tech. A remote buyer is perfect for a seller dumping a car. I can't stress the importance in having a car like this fully inspected by a knowledgeable RR tech/facility tech before purchase.
If not, the cost to cure and repair will bring a car like this to your knees in no time.
The key to successful RR ownership experience is to do most of the service yourself or trust a local shop for the bigger items.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hmmm, i do not have any RR tech near me. So i will go to see the car first and if I like it I can work on bringing the RR tech with me on a second visit.
 

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FYI.... You can only inspect certain things from above, there are many issues that go unseen when the car is not on a lift for inspection. You have no idea how complicated the underside is and that is the reason for a full inspection.
What if the car needs specialized service and you have no shop to bring it to?
Unfortunately, emotion gets in the way of purchasing, and then reality sets in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok, your warning sounds reasonable. I can bring the car to nearest specialized shop in Munich, Germany, however it is a big question if i am ready to do it ... most probably not. Maybe once. In any case I am not willing to work only for RR car. So I plan to use myself or/and mechanics here who are specialized into English cars. Not in RR especially, unfortunately.
 

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A mechanic working on another English car such as an MG, Jaguar or similiar may not understand the complexities of a RR. Beware of those that claim to do so. A mechanic that pretends to know , will only bodge things and it will cost you.
Sorry to sound the alarm, but this forum and many others are witness to this behavior, so I just wanted to enlighten you.
Good luck.
 

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Price and mileage on the high side.
Check the "Bordbücher".
If you buy the car, I bet the headlights issue will not be the top of your priorities ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry to sound the alarm, but this forum and many others are witness to this behavior, so I just wanted to enlighten you.
All is clear. I consider myself as extremely practical. That's why I am not afraid of old cars as i should most probably be. I can manage my y. 92 W140 Mercedes S class for last 14 years on my own and the car is even better now as it was on a day of purchase. Ok, I know that RR is "not a car" but THE CAR.

If you buy the car, I bet the headlights issue will not be the top of your priorities
that is my main inhibition ... I know that headlights will not be the main problem. All this "to be or not to be" is more and more spiritual. For instance I do not have any fear if anything in my W140 breaks. I am 100% sure that i will fix it. Like rear differential recently. I have paid 1250 eur for a brand new one (re-manufactured by MB) and it was on a car in the same day. In contrast, every breakdown or trouble in RR car seems (sounds) like the end of the world now :(.
 

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1989 was a really good year to buy as it's fuel injection and not active ride.
They are complicated but not rocket science and all the manuals are free online and great forums like this one.
Regular oil change is the main thing imho.
Mike
 

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On your test drive, listen to the rear, whine on coast or under power. They are known to whine since the Shadows. I have one I have to adjust this fall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
1989 was a really good year to buy as it's fuel injection and not active ride.
I know that. 1988 and 1989 are the right ones for me. I can ask the guy to lift the car at my first visit. What exactly to check then beside the eventual rust on the floor?

On your test drive, listen to the rear, whine on coast or under power. They are known to whine since the Shadows.
That's what I want to hear! What else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
1) BTW, is evaporator for AC in Spirit also buried deeply like in Mercedes W140, where one has to disassemble whole dashboard (30 - 40 hours of labor for an amateur) to get it out and fix the leak?
2) is catalytic converter in Spirit a weak point or it will last if I am lucky?
 

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Any rust is usually found in the forward section of the sills. Floor pans are generally fine.....except where the catalytic converter(s) are. Lift the carpet mats for extreme heat signature.
Follow every line and rubber hose for leaks, check lower radiator area.
Ask for maintenance receipts, especially for radiator and more importantly, the hi-pressure hoses.
 

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"to be or not to be" is more and more spiritual....
You are spot on.
At first glance, these cars are intimidating but, once you take the plunge, they are very rewarding (build quality above average, no rocket-science technology).
If you are able to change a diff on a Benz, you should be able to tackle about any job on an SZ.
You have to understand you will be on your own (no dealer or "specialist" life-saver nearby).
If you buy a 20.000 series (I own two of them :cool: ) in reasonnable shape (read : rust free), usual issues (spheres ; steering) can be addressed by a motivated owner.

Before buying, ask for the last spheres and steering rack change.
 
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