The attachment shows the spare parts catalog page shows the heater tap for your car enclosed in an orange rectangle at its location on the car, in close up, then in exploded view with the plastic dust cover off. The actuator cable is marked in blue in the close-up and I've indicated where it is attached in blue on the exploded view.
I have received your private message but am posting here so that there will be a record for others. It is absolutely, positively impossible for the heater tap to be completely non-functional, that is :
- stuck in a given position
- actuator dead, so it remains in a given position though not truly stuck
- actuator cable loose either at the tap or actuator so that movement is not transmitted between the two
if you are getting temperature changes from the heating and air conditioning system. If the ambient temperature is above freezing the system works by first cooling ambient air to remove humidity then heating it (if necessary) either to achieve the desired cabin temperature based on the dials or definitely heating it if you've chosen defrost/defog mode.
If you observe the cable and arm on the heater tap when the system is off, then have someone turn the system to defrost (once the car's coolant temperature has reached the minimum required for the system to activate at all) you will immediately see the actuator push the cable all the way out, opening the heater tap to its maximum extent. If you turn the car off under those conditions the tap stays open. It's recommended you do this prior to changing the coolant so that you know that the heater core coolant ends up getting drained.
There is the odd circumstance where the cable "gets mushy" and becomes more like a cord than a cable. In that circumstance you typically get problems with opening the tap to get heat, but it closes perfectly normally. As the old saying goes: You can't push a rope.
Brian thank you so much for ur competent kindness.
I must say that the heater tap on my car is of a newer generation (ur27683) and has an electric wire.
The tap presents a chylinder and I noticed that this iron cylinder didn't move. I don't know if that is correct
My apologies. I guess the coffee hadn't kicked in yet since I didn't follow my own cardinal rule: You must pay attention to the chassis number range on the parts catalog page. For the record, the attachment on this post shows the parts catalog page with the heater tap that your 20K series has in it. Although it's not clearly stated or shown, the connector on the back appears to be an electrical connector, and you've confirmed this.
I would imagine that all moving parts on this tap would be completely internal to the tap body itself. I can't picture anything that you'd be able to see moving on the exterior when it's activated. You might be able to *feel* something, though. You could also remove the thing and bench test it if you want to go that far.
I believe the system still has the same behavior with regard to how defrost/defog works, but I can't be sure since section C3, which describes the behavior of the system, is missing from the online documentation.
I'll still stand by my statement, though, that if you're getting blasting heat when you choose defrost/defog and it subsides substantially when you switch to one of the automatic settings that the only way that can happen is through the heater tap closing to a significant degree and the mixing flaps reconfiguring themselves correctly.
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I guess there is a sensor not working if the roof is down.
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