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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a Turbo R (sealed chest carb, serial 13650) which has been standing for several months and does not want to start - worked fine before.
A friend and I have removed the supply hose to the regulator and cranked - no fuel coming out. I would like a little guidance please if possible.

Oddly, reading about 10V at the fuel pump but only when cranking - nothing when just "ignition on" - which confused me, not sure if this is normal
Have tried clonking it with a bit of wood - nothing doing.

I am happy enough to simply replace the pump with an aftermarket one - will any reasonably high capacity low pressure pump suffice or is there something else I should be doing first - or taking into account?

Engine starts when fuel supplied manually from a little bottle and pipe - so everything else seems ok - and the filter isn't blocked as when I sucked on the supply line, I had a mouth full of fuel within seconds. Also could not "blow" so am guessing the diaphragm is ok - just siezed up.

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions from people who have "been there and done that" can offer. I have tried to give a list of things tried so far but very happy to answer any other questions.

In short, just keen to know if best bet is to buy a new pump - and if so, any guidance on type other than "one for cabs". Thank you.
 

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You should only get supply to the pump if cranking or running.
There is a ballast resistor in the circuit, fitted above ns drive shaft in inside wheel arch usually badly corroded, check that.
Sounds like a duff pump though, go for a good used on, flying spares etc
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your thoughts Mike.

Well, we removed the pump and I put it on the bench PSU, set around 8v - and it refused to work. Tapped it briefly at 12v and it burst into life - and now is happy to run on 8v and sounds as though it is running very smoothly.

My friend that removed it could not see a ballast resistor around - just a wire feeding it which went into the bodywork - but I'm not sure he looked there. Do you happen to know what value it is - as one thing I do have a lot of is aluminium clad wirewound resistors! I am guessing somewhere between 1.2 Ohms and 6.8 Ohms?

I noticed other posts have mentioned a rebuild kit is available but the pump SEEMS to be a sealed unit - with the end "crimped over" where the connections are.

Tempted to try just putting it back on now it is running so smoothly, but if they are "on the way out" when they first stick at 8v, then I suppose I should rebuild or replace. Certainly I have never had any hint that there was a fuel supply issue in the past (as in under high load), it just went from working perfectly to being dead. Now it appears to be very happy again.

A different way to spend the afternoon though :)
 

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Hi Hope this picture helps don't know the resistance but thats why you have 8v you should get 12v when the throttle is off the stop ok
mike
28431
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you very much for that - though I am being a bit denser than usual and cannot quite work out what it is I am actually looking at. It looks like a rear seat shape (but obviously isn't) and I cannot think of another structure that sort of size or shape. I thought the resistor was under the car in a wheel arch or something from reading more on here but this looks more like on the "top" side of the car. Also puzzled that the resistor seems to have no electrical connections - or at least none shown.

I do appreciate you helping - but just frustrated that I am being too thick to see what it is I am being shown!!

In my defense, it's been a long petrolly day :)
 

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No you're not being thick it's a bad picture, imagine the situation looking from under the car , have a look in that area ok
Mike
 
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