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Hello,

I want to flush my radiator and do a complete coolant change....I want to change to the BMW Blue Coolant in my 94 Turbo RL. I have been told this coolant will make the car run cooler and save the turbo.....Not sure if this is true or not but I need to flush it anyway. Does anyone know how to do this or have any instructions for this?

Thanks,

Scott
 

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Scott,

The process is very well documented in the cooling system section of the workshop manual for the earlier series of SZ motorcars which you can download from the SZ Cars (Spur/Spirit and Derivatives) Section of the RROC-Australia Post-War Technical Library.

However, they omit one very vital step, and this step is documented by Richard Treacy midway through a thread entitled, Head Gasket Failure, on the RROC-Australia Discussion Forums which can be directly accessed by clicking here.

I had forgotten that Richard also posted a PDF on filling the cooling system created from IETIS for the later SZ cars here and I posted even a bit more detail, though in smaller and harder to read versions when testing the limits of image sizes that could be posted to the RROC-A forums in a thread entitled, Image Resizing and Quality Test.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Coolant

I was reading about the new coolants and how it will damage my car. I recently had a self proclaimed RR specialist tell be that they put the BMW BLue Coolant in all of the RR they service and they only do the old ones. He told its because RR reccomends its for the new ones....Have you ever heard of people putting this Blue coolant in the older RR/Bentley? This guy did not know what a SZ car was....this is the site... http://www.touringshoppe.com/Index.html

Talk to you soon!

Scott
 

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Scott,

I have done a *lot* of research regarding coolants since the urban legend machine went into overdrive about not using *anything* but old-fashioned IAT coolant formulations in our cars. There were some early disasters, and not just in RR/Bentley, when early DexCool formulations were released containing high levels of 2-EHA (and, perhaps, other plasticizers) that were not compatible with some older seal materials, including silicone, which is used in many cars. Those formulations were changed, and pretty promptly, but I still tell people to stay away from DexCool formulations.

I know people (including myself) who have been using either extended life or lifetime formulations in RR or Bentley motorcars for years now without problem. I've had 5-year long life in my Shadow II since 2011 and she's chugging along as she always has.

I just gave the same advice on another thread today that I'll offer now: If you elect to go with an extended-life or lifetime coolant formulation make sure it doesn't have 2-EHA in it. Several makers, Peak in particular, make specific note of the fact that their formulations are 2-EHA free.

I've got Wal-Mart's SuperTech antifreeze in my car and its formula (at least what it was in 2011) was 2-EHA free. I have kept in touch with a number of people using different brands of long-life or lifetime coolant in their cars (and all of which are 2-EHA free) and no one is having any trouble.

The question you're asking has been asked and answered multiple times on this forum, but given the myth making machine out there I felt the need to answer it again. Do a search on "coolant" or "antifreeze" and you'll have more reading, lots of it with "friend of a friend" or "I heard about someone" horror stories. If these stories were true then the number of product liability lawsuits due to coolants wrecking cars would be huge. Most people don't know the slightest thing about coolant, and most manufacturers run everything by their legal departments before putting any claim such as, "compatible with any antifreeze type and make," on their labels.

Do your homework then come to an educated decision that you can live with.
 

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95 turbo r coolant

Green Green, green all the Way until the end of turbo r models. Other coolants attack the seals. Protection of the wet liners within an alloy block are the most vulnerable part within the cooling system. If they corrode your liners go oval, pistons seize. £££££££££££££££ .The formulation of modern coolant inhibitors does not work with an engine using green coolant.
 

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Green, green, green is, quite simply, both unreliable and untrue.

First, there's so much inconsistency on dye colors used that this is no longer a good way to determine what coolant might be good.

Second, it's all about the chemistry. I know too many people (including myself) who have been using 2-EHA free long life or lifetime coolant formulations in RR and Bentley motorcars such that the whole seal hysteria is proven false.

2-EHA is a plasticizer that attacks silicone seals which are used in RR, Bentley, and many other cars. This was figured out and that's why the vast majority of coolants that are not of the DexCool or clone families have eliminated it.

IAT (the old stuff), OAT, and HOAT formulations can all, with appropriate caution regarding the absence of 2-EHA, be used in Rolls-Royce and Bentley Motorcars.

Urban legends die hard.
 

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Green faced

Point taken , in my mind I referred to the rr bentley green coolant. The guy who services mine just sticks the Crewe product.[/i]
 

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Scott,

The process is very well documented in the cooling system section of the workshop manual for the earlier series of SZ motorcars which you can download from the SZ Cars (Spur/Spirit and Derivatives) Section of the RROC-Australia Post-War Technical Library.

However, they omit one very vital step, and this step is documented by Richard Treacy midway through a thread entitled, Head Gasket Failure, on the RROC-Australia Discussion Forums which can be directly accessed by clicking here.

I had forgotten that Richard also posted a PDF on filling the cooling system created from IETIS for the later SZ cars here and I posted even a bit more detail, though in smaller and harder to read versions when testing the limits of image sizes that could be posted to the RROC-A forums in a thread entitled, Image Resizing and Quality Test.
For whatever reason, that referenced link is not working. It's here: http://au.rrforums.net/cgi-bin/forum/discus.pl

The tilting method works to help alleviate air locks in the cooling system. However, if you have your system well-sealed up and ready for refill, utilizing a vacuum airlock purge tool (if you have an air compressor)...
https://youtu.be/_WCRcuCZI50
 

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Yes, that is a very good system.
Fot those who do not have it, the upper Behr radiator as a screw, same as the drainind scew. The official procedure states to refill very slowly through this screw, to avoid air. I did it for years and had no issue. But I was very carrefull, filling slowly and puting the heater max. Then driving and checking level.
Refilling directly the radiator seems to be reliable and not too difficult. You just need the right funnel.
 

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It does not really matter which coolant you use provided that you change it often enough. Mercedes Benz has recently moved to the same blue coolant used by BMW. Before, they used the G05 formula which is fine too for alloy engines. Green is fine provided that you change it every couple of years. Just make sure that whatever you use, you flush the old coolant by draining and refilling with distilled water at least 4 times before you add the new coolant. This will get most of the old stuff out of there and follow whatever procedure to get the air out of the system.

Don't use tap water.

Good luck!
 

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I use the blue Mercedes coolant mix with demineralised water in several cars, it is a premium quality in my opinion and has many advantages, for galvanic corrosion, rust, .......to be replaced maximum every 3 years


Do not put premix on those cars, they require quality coolant and the best is to make it yoursefl with demineralised water
 

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Hi!
I changed the coolant on my Turbo R at the weekend, but have a couple of questions:
If I follow the procedure mentioned above, and fill the radiator the bleed hole or top thin hose, the expansion tank will overflow, as the top of the radiator is above the expansion tank.
Is the procedure different on later cars?
Should I try topping it up from the radiator side with the expansion tank cap on? Or maybe even pull excess air out with a vacuum pump?

Cheers
Es
 

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Forget the vacuum pump. The system will naturally purge air with the overflow cap off.
 

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What I suggest and have done on several of those cars, including Continental R.
That is the official procedure form Bentley.
Stop the car with heating on max, let it cool. Drain coolant when cold.
If you have a BEHR radiator, as you should have, open the screw top of the radiator then fill with coolant untill the expansion tank cap open is overfill then close explansion tank, adjsut level in radiator, close radiator, start engine and let it warm with the heating and ventilation ON. Check level, adjust if a lot is missing, drive the car, let it cool, check level next days engine totally cold, you can put twice heating max on next days.
With htis procedure, air is purge as written above.
 

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There is an excellent topic on the RROC-Australia forum containing all the tips and tricks specific to getting a smooth and easy refill on the SZ series cars with the Behr radiator, but it seems to have gone MIA, as the link I have for it is no longer working.

I have written to one of the moderators on that forum in an attempt to get a corrected URL, and will post it if/when I get it.

By the way, and I've written extensively on this before, but it is perfectly safe to use long life or lifetime coolants in these cars that are not DexCool forumulations and that are also 2-EHA-free. I've had Peak Global Lifetime in my SY cars for many years now, and the seals used in the SZs are the same. I also know a lot of owner's who've been using other brands in their cars as well.

It makes absolutely no sense, either from an environmental standpoint or an "amount of unnecessary work" standpoint, to continue using coolant technologies that require frequent changing.
 
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The current URL for the advice from Richard Treacy for filling the SZ cooling system is: Australian RR Forums: Head Gasket Failure ( and Omar)

Other topics (head gaskets, etc.,) were also being discussed.

I am going to copy the content of said message here, with full credit to Mr. Treacy, in case it should become "misplaced" again:

By the way, on head gaskets, there are pitfalls when changing the coolant in later SZ cars, and having discussed this with many may I offer a suggestion as it is a likely cause of head gasket failure on even the best-maintained vehicles?

The book procedure for filling most SZ cars misses a vital step. Before filling, lift the LHS front of the vehicle to tilt its front bumper at 15 degrees. That helps the bleeding process enormously!! Many of these cars run for a few weeks dumping coolant after a refill even when the book procedure is observer to the letter until all the last bubbles self-bleed, but the tilt method never fails to make the job quick and sure. Many bemused mechanics miss this point. Furthermore, I do suspect that retained air in the system could be the main cause of head gasket failures in the cars before the mid 1990s when a few other factors were at work too.

Incidentally, the same head gasket, part number and all, applies to all Crewe 6,230 and 6,750 V8s from 1958 until at least 2003. That explains why the head gaskets alone are still rather inexpensive, even if the peripheral parts required for the job and supplied in decoke kits put the price back into the mid-range of automotive spares prices like Opels and VWs.

RT.
 
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Hi all

I've been looking to attempt my first coolant change, and 'think' (having read everyone's advice on here and the Aus & RROC forums) I have a vague handle on the many options for refill procedures and their relevant subtleties. With some trepidation though I'd like to ask if anyone has any preferred steps for a coolant flush prior to a drain/refill. I've been offered some good ideas on other forums but would love to hear any straightforward procedures that folks here may have used successfully. Happy to take this to a separate thread if necessary.

Thanks
 

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By experience, do not follow precisely the workshop. Sometime they suggest too much unnecessary complications.
Own experiences related here and there are better in my opinion than the workshop.
I will make the same comments for bleeding SZ hydraulic described in workshop,...

From all what you read, make your own judgement and experience.

Turbo coolant on 96 and later cars is a pain to drain and refille because of the intercooler. Twin turbo on Arnage is probably the worst to drain and refu=ill and there you need to follow the procedure and use a vacuum system to refill, otherwise there is a big chance to get air in the system and serious mechnic issue.I am convince that few specialists first do it and second do it the way it should be done.

On a classic SZ car, draining the coolant is an easy and classic job, you will see once you do it, just follow the main steps you probably read and I details
 

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Hello,

I want to flush my radiator and do a complete coolant change....I want to change to the BMW Blue Coolant in my 94 Turbo RL. I have been told this coolant will make the car run cooler and save the turbo.....Not sure if this is true or not but I need to flush it anyway. Does anyone know how to do this or have any instructions for this?

Thanks,

Scott
Hi Scott,

Sorry to hijack the thread. I live in Plano at Legacy West. Would love to meet up and check out your car.

Kindly,
Stephen
 
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