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Spent most of the day cleaning because was first warm weather day. I used http://www.leatherique.com/serv02.htm on the leather. Link for saving of typing. Easy instructions and good products. Using the oil at least once per year and conditioner, along with saddle soap in lieu of oil frequently throughout the year. For the dash top and rear "shelf", I do those surfaces more frequently because they are exposed to drying out sun more. I hope to never need their leather dye products! For the wood, I'm following the owners manual and using damp cloth and dry one to buff.
For exterior.
1.) I want to remove the old coat of wax before doing a new coat. So I use household dish soap. After waxing only use car soaps. I also wash inside the wheel wells and hose down that area as well. Along with under and behind both bumpers, anyplace which can be reached by cloth and hose water, even when not visible. The nooks dirt can get trapped and cause rust!
2.) Before waxing this time also used a clay bar. link to explain this step. http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Product_Code=Z-18&Screen=PROD I use Mothers products though, they sell a decent kit system for this. example: http://www.tcpglobal.com/DetailSupplyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=MOT+07240
3.) I wax as normal. Again Mothers and sometimes Maguires as well. Both have a 3 step process that works wonders. link again: http://www.levineautoparts.com/mocagoprcl1.html
All the above products are sold at auto parts stores and Walmart, Target, etcetera. I also use a buffer. This one is the best for the money and excellent for first time users of a high speed pro machine! Orbital makes it harder to burn your paint. Link: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/10925.do
Despite the step one pre wax cleaner doing much the same job as the clay bar. Doing both really brings out the shine. By doing all this, my goal is to keep my paint looking new for years and avoiding having to respray.
For exterior.
1.) I want to remove the old coat of wax before doing a new coat. So I use household dish soap. After waxing only use car soaps. I also wash inside the wheel wells and hose down that area as well. Along with under and behind both bumpers, anyplace which can be reached by cloth and hose water, even when not visible. The nooks dirt can get trapped and cause rust!
2.) Before waxing this time also used a clay bar. link to explain this step. http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Product_Code=Z-18&Screen=PROD I use Mothers products though, they sell a decent kit system for this. example: http://www.tcpglobal.com/DetailSupplyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=MOT+07240
3.) I wax as normal. Again Mothers and sometimes Maguires as well. Both have a 3 step process that works wonders. link again: http://www.levineautoparts.com/mocagoprcl1.html
All the above products are sold at auto parts stores and Walmart, Target, etcetera. I also use a buffer. This one is the best for the money and excellent for first time users of a high speed pro machine! Orbital makes it harder to burn your paint. Link: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/10925.do
Despite the step one pre wax cleaner doing much the same job as the clay bar. Doing both really brings out the shine. By doing all this, my goal is to keep my paint looking new for years and avoiding having to respray.