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Cooling system tested in “extreme” Texas heat.

1553 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Choke
Hello gentlemen,

I live in Texas - and as a testament to the robust cooling system in my 1997 Bentley Turbo R A/C and engine cooling - WOW works fantastic. Today in the Dallas area it was

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So I decided to test the cooling and A/C in my car…so I know this is probably crazy (and I baby the heck out of my car). But…I left my car out in idle and full A/C on and the engine never went past midway point….fresh coolant and oil…and refrigerant recharge and new Viscous clutch…and let me tell you…the car never over heated at all. My obvious recommendation is to change all coolant and oil…and maintain your car and yiu shouldn’t have any problems. Just wanted to see how the car would react. No - the car is resting…in the garage, fan on, oil cap and hood open….magnificent car.

Kindly,
Stephen
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Actually, this doesn't come as a surprise to me. One thing Crewe definitely did was design these cars so that they could be run reliably virtually anywhere on the surface of God's green earth. The Middle East has been a popular market for RR and Bentley for many years, and they've run in road races through Mongolia, among numerous other places with extremes of both heat and cold.

The radiators in these beasts is just huge!
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Did not know that - thank you for the education. Honestly, kind of on a mission to rid the publics view of bad reliability in these cars that they seem to have. I get it - the majority of these cars have been neglected….and I’m on a mission to make mine perfect…but just wanted to share a little “non-biased” test I wanted to perform.
Kindly,
Stephen
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kind of on a mission to rid the publics view of bad reliability
Meanwhile the other guy in Texas................
Honestly, kind of on a mission to rid the publics view of bad reliability in these cars that they seem to have.
These cars were never reliable to the level that top-notch reliability cars, e.g. Toyota, Honda, were at the time they were made and it becomes even worse with neglect. They are unreliable when compared against that level, and pretty much always, but that doesn't mean that they are, or should be, unreliable in sane and practical terms. There are plenty of cars on the road, for decades, that don't hold up to "the transportation appliances" in terms of their absolute reliability.

I had great luck with SRH33576 after her initial "shake out months" and where I thereafter kept fixing "little things" that very seldom resulted in an FTP. The only two FTPs I ever had in her was when the functioning half of the fuel pump went out after I'd had her for several years and when the Lucas Opus ignition decided to give up the ghost at age 35.

These cars "become more unreliable" because they are simply not driven, for the most part. And the obsession with low mileage that, to any informed consumer, means that a car was never used, among a significant part of the RR/Bentley community doesn't help. I had a lot less trouble with SRH33576 that came to me with something like 80K miles on her than I did with LRK37110 with under 30K miles and several years of no use at all.
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They're unreliable because they're a pain in the rear to work on and because parts are expensive and hard to get hold of. It's easy to change a cam cover gasket on a Mercedes Benz 560SEL which you can get pretty much on the same day in any big city for around $6/side.

Mileages are low on many cars because owners don't want to deal with what's involved in maintaining them, so they don't drive them.
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Sorry, but I have to disagree with your assessment.

The original owners of these cars are in the "money is no object" class and they can easily afford the necessary maintenance on them. That's who I was referring to, not those of us who get these cars on the secondary market often after years of neglect we have to make up for.

One of the reasons my "cut off date" was the SY era is because of how notoriously unreliable the electronics that were used for many things in the cars that came after were. That's the biggest PITA to deal with along with the fact that there is the long period prior to when OBD became mandated (1996 in the USA) and the difficulty in getting the code readers needed.

I agree that parts are obscene if you stick to Crewe Original, and there are some parts that can only be had from them or a dismantler. That being said, most of the common service items like belts, relays, seals, and many others do have "over the counter" equivalents that can be sourced anywhere. I made it one of my missions to compile such a compendium because I was shocked that no one in the RROC-US (at the time I joined) had ever done so. It's insane to pay Crewe Original prices for dirt common parts that are 100% (or close enough to practically be) the same.
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Yeah I don't really care about new owners or new cars for that matter. All new cars are reliable and all are covered by a bumper to warranty. If money was no object to me and I wanted a new one, i'd lease it and give it back after 3 years.

I was responding to your point about neglect. A car that's difficult to maintain is easily neglected. That might not even be a question of cost, but more a question of value and convenience.
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These cars are designed to sit around and idle all day in just about any conditions. Mine was always cool, too. Until yesterday, that is. My radiator top tank (plastic) developed a nice crack. Now I have to fix it. I’m not going to pay huge money for a new radiator and installation if I can avoid it. JB weld plastic radiator repair kit on the way. Wish me luck!
Sounds like a good excuse to buy and Tig welder
The plastic tank cracked, not the aluminium so a TIG won't help here.
Here's a good source for all aluminum radiators
It will if he builds one like the aluminum expansion tanks on the arnage
On my old '89 Turbo R, the spout from the radiator top tank to the expansion tank broke off and I used JB Weld on it and it lasted 3+ years until I got rid of the car. If the crack isn't too major, it should work.

If not, I would definitely recommend the aluminum replacement. Those Behr plastic radiators are very brittle.
Hi, a lot of cooling system development was done in house at Crewe using a hot room facility and cars were taken to death valley for further development and validation.
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See - this is really nifty, I enjoy reading things like this, thank you. Although I suspect a lot of cars probably were designed the same way maybe…but regardless….the engineering of these cars never seizes to amaze me.

Kindly,

v/r,

Stephen

Moderator note: There is no need to quote a previous post when you are replying if you are following the train of thought in the thread.
Texas, Mongolia, plastics, reliability? My baby SRH 39029 has done it all, but in Cape Town. Compare me to pitstops of the Formula 1 racing teams, 10 sec and less, I get huge rolling tears in my eyes of didding 5 years hard labour.
But it is the 43 years old engine versus the one season motor block, not to forget the SU carburator designed in 1904. I have been through each mechanical item, replaced the wear and tear when needed, total less then 1000 euroos plus beers, but the plastics which is electronics costed me plenty flat-bed-truck recoveries. I resorted to torn most wires with root and all out off the board, fall back on basic functional logic, reconnect but avoided the 'integrated circuits which tell you to see the mechanic when stand still in front of a lion when doing a safari trip'.
I alway enjoying the next wafting trip.
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