[jeyjey]

If I'm reading it correctly, I belive the workshop manual suggests removing the cylinder block coolant drain plugs when renewing the coolant (yearly).

However, the parts manual shows a pair of cylinder block core plugs on each side, but doesn't label which are the coolant plugs and which are (I presume) the oil gallery plugs.

Anyone know if the washers for the coolant drain plugs are XB1095 or XB1193?

Thanks,
-- Jeff.

 

[guyslp]

Jeff,

Figure L2 in Chapter L shows the location of the block coolant drain.

I'm not sure which figure(s) in the parts manual you're referring to. If you want a really quick answer to your question (and a source for the parts) call Bentley Zionsville, AKA and better known as Albers in the RR community. Have your chassis number ready.

OOPS I was thinking you were in the U.S. I'm getting older. I'll leave the above intact for US based folks. You might want to get in touch with Nigel Barker at http://rollsroycebentleyparts.com. He's located in Devon. There are also a number of other excellent parts houses in the UK. Download the Rolls-Royce & Bentley Parts, Repair, Restoration & Other Resources Compilation I maintain and take a look at the folks in the UK.

 

[jeyjey]

Brian --

Yeah, I saw that, but I couldn't match it up with the parts diagram picture. My lift is getting installed next week so I should be able to figure it out once I can get under the car.

In the meantime, an obvious thought occurred to me: the sealing washers are only about £1 each, so I might as well just order a couple of each.

-- Jeff.

 

[rollmech]

coolant renewal question

the drain plugs for the block are on either side about in the middle of the block facing down on their own. hopr that is some help

 

[jeyjey]

Thanks, Rollmech. Middle of the block would suggest they're the pair with the XB1193/R sealing washers. (The pair with the XB1095/R washers are at the back of the block.)

Anyone know the thread-size off-hand? I'd like to make up a garden hose adapter for reverse-flushing while I'm waiting for my lift.

-- Jeff.

 

[jeyjey]

The threads on the plug are 5/8-18. I made up a hose adapter* so I can reverse flush it without flooding my garage.

One other note if you're doing this on a lift: draining the radiator will not drain the block. Expect a shower if you're standing under the block plug when you remove it.

-- Jeff.


* Actually, I made it 3 times. It was my first go at threading on a lathe, which turned out to be a little trickier than it looks. The first one suffered from the assumption that I could back up the threading tool without withdrawing it. There's enough backlash in the drivetrain of my lathe that this ends up mashing a second set of threads offset from the first. The second one came out quite nice, if anyone has their block tapped with left-hand threads.

 

[jeyjey]

Took me most of the day to flush the radiator and block and replace the coolant hoses. Does anyone else have issues trying to get the hose clamp on the radiator end of the bottom hose? The fan shroud is in the way for putting it at most angles, and the two that are left are really hard to get a socket or screwdriver on to the tightening mechanism.

I'm going to try and get the water pump rebuilt tomorrow before I refill, though at this rate I can easily see it dragging into the week.

-- Jeff.

 

[rollmech]

coolant renewal question

I know that it is of little use now but bottom hose is generally put onto radiator when radiator is out of car as it is so awkward in place. all hoses were usually replaced if ever radiator was done because of awkward ness os doing it in car. Water pump generally not to bad job to do so hope all goes well for you

 

[jeyjey]

Yeah, the next phase went reasonably well. The pulley came off the water pump easily enough (interestingly, there are no countersunk screws on mine like "The Shadow Owner's Companion" shows -- perhaps a North American market thing?).

Tapping the bearing housing with a brass hammer wasn't enough to free it from the pump housing. I tried a couple of taps with a cold chisel, also to no avail. Since it's located by pins, I reasoned I needed a chisel with a more acute edge so the force would be transferred in the outward direction. A wood chisel worked quite well.

I love it in the workshop manual when they say "using the special tool ...". Not having one, I used the spring-steel blades of two carpentry saws as spacers between the impeller and housing, and then pressed the bearing shaft out of both the impeller and housing all in one go. There was one of those uncomfortable moments when the shaft first started moving -- it made a popping sound much like cast iron cracking. The press read about 3 tons at the time, so this is not something I'd recommend attempting with a mallet.

I took some pictures that I'll post on a separate thead.

-- Jeff.