[MonsterBabyBLN]

I need to change the heater valve on my ss2.. Seams like it's leaking and stuck.
Anyone has an idea if I can do this without taking out the brake fluid reservoir..?

 

[Wraithman]

Being able to remove the heater valve depends heavily on what tools you have. That includes universals, universal sockets, open wrenches etc. The 2 fasteners are BA2. I would suggest buying a 1'4" drive BA socket set and wrench set. If you do your own repairs this is a must since everything on the car under 1/4 dia is BA.
Once the tool part is figured out, removing is not a problem and the reservoir above is left in place. Your biggest hassle may be the hoses, they may be stubborn when removing. Use dish soap to slide them back on.

 

[BertRolls]

I did so, and i found it was not possible without removing the brake fluid reservoir.

 

[MonsterBabyBLN]

Thnx guys. It looks mighty difficult to me.
How did you do it? Suck out the fluid first and then take out the reservoir?
Because mine was just changed recently. Don't wanna throw it all out..

 

[BertRolls]

You only need to empty the reservoir f.i. with a spoon. By loosening the pipes and hoses you will spoil some brake fluid, so catch that in a cloth.

 

[Wraithman]

A turkey baster makes the job easier and safer when dealing with brake fluid.

 

[guyslp]

[Note: I thought I had hit the send button on this around noon today, but rushed out before having done so. Some of this has been covered by others but I'm leaving it "as is."]

Yes, you can. No, it will not be fun. Been there, done that.

If it is leaking, you really have no choice. If you just believe it's stuck, then I'd disconnect the cable and try to manually unstick it.

It's also not uncommon for the securing screw for the cable to the tap lever to become loose and the cable just slides through. You may (and I do say may) have a worst case scenario where the tap was frozen, the securing screw not loose, and the end of the cable will now be badly damaged from having been pushed and pulled in place so many times.

This was not one of Crewe's best design choices.

 

[BertRolls]

About the turkey baster, that’s not the answer MonsterBabyBLN wants to hear, he will know how does a non turkey baster the job.

 

[MonsterBabyBLN]

Haha. Tbh. I think it's easier to turkey baster the thing. It might need a bit Moore preparation but then you can probably reach the valve nicely and clean everything up. I need to change the top hose as well. Got the parts from intro already. I just wanted to be sure I don't over do it. I don't have my own place yet to work. So I need to see how extensive the jobs get.
I need to replace sphere 1 as well. Will probably do both together then. Right now I'm loosing a lot of coolant and have to figure out where. I can't really tell so far.. Bummer

 

[BertRolls]

I wrote “he will know”, but i mean “he wants to know” how a non turkey baster does the job.

 

[Jim Walters]

You do NOT have to remove the brake fluid reservoir to replace the heater water valve. The instructions in the factory workshop manual are clear that you do not have to remove the reservoir. For what it's worth, the RR book time is 1.5 hours to replace the water valve. This includes draining and refilling the cooling system. The space to get at the valve is limited, so it is a bit fiddly to get one's hands in there. The hoses attached to the water valve are usually the last to be replaced and I often find them close to failing, so you should consider replacing them while you have the valve out.

 

[BertRolls]

MonsterBaby can try the method of Jim Walters at first (so I did), and when this is not succesfull he does the way of the turkey baster (so I did and I was happy with that)

 

[Jim Walters]

I guess it depends on dexterous your fingers are and if you have the correct tools. You'll need a 1/4 inch drive small ratchet with a short extension and a 2BA socket (11/32 six point socket will work too) and a 2BA or 11/32 open or box end wrench. A small rare earth magnet over the side of an open or box end wrench will hold the nuts and washers in place to start them blind or, a second socket and short extension will allow you get the bottom nut and washer on blind while holding the bolt with another.

 

[Wraithman]

....and a fender cover

 

[MonsterBabyBLN]

Hey ma friends... so I am back at this... and my fingers are to fat .. I got one screw out.. the easiest.. but cant get the others.. I realzied the hose to the front pump is bad anyhow.. So I will remove the reservoir.. Do I need new gaskets or O rings?.. the fluid has just been changed 6 months ago and filters are good ?... I dont wanna miss parts once I have it apart

 

[BertRolls]

You don’t need any part, you can prove the hoses from the reservoir to the pumps and when in poor condition renew them.

 

[guyslp]

the fluid has just been changed 6 months ago and filters are good ?... I dont wanna miss parts once I have it apart

The gravity feed hoses to the pumps are nothing more than EPDM heater hose of the necessary diameter. I have discussed this in the Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow/Bentley T and Silver Shadow II/Bentley T2 Hydraulic Hose Substitution Chart, in RR & Bentley Parts, Repair, Restoration & Other Resources Compilation.

Since you know you're going to pitch the original hose, I would simply clamp it shut slightly upstream of where it connects to the pump, then after you've released the Jubilee clip at that end, have a spotlessly clean container ready, unclamp the line, and allow that side of the reservoir to drain into the container. You can put the fluid back in to the reservoir through the regular opening after you have the replacement hose attached.

 

[MonsterBabyBLN]

Thanx guys.. I couldnt get the front high pressure line off so far.. super tight.. got a new wrench and try tomorrow.. I do need to bleed the system after I replaced the hoses and topped up I suppose ?

 

[guyslp]

I couldnt get the front high pressure line off so far.. super tight.

To what, precisely, are you making reference?

There are no high-pressure lines either to or from the reservoir. The gravity feed hoses to the pumps are "no pressure" since they are, well, gravity fed. The return hose from the ACV to the reservoir is low pressure, just letting fluid go straight back to the reservoir when the accumulator is not being actively charged. It's like a "full open" between the pump and the reservoir, and in that case no pressure builds up. You can actually witness how slow and gentle that flow is if you have the reservoir open and the baffles out. There is not a geyser of fluid being pushed back in by the return hose, but just a small disturbance on the surface of the fluid in the reservoir above where that port enters on the bottom.

 

[MonsterBabyBLN]

Sorry Brian.. absolutely right.. at the accumulators the hose is low pressure - the return.. and the steel pipes are high pressure.. I was talking about the steel pipes below the reservoir.. the pipes that go to the pumps.. steel but still low pressure