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1970 Silver Shadow RHD, 2013 Nissan Leaf, 1986 Toyota RV, 2000 Nissan Frontier, 2006 Honda ST 1300,
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I'd like to replace the panel light bulbs in my 1970 Shadow right hand drive 馃憠. I can barely see them at night. Anybody do this?
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The facia lamps are covered with a blue cap. They will be brighter when removed and it may be what you want. I would suggest dropping the key ring. It is not friendly to the wood or black surround and that's why the original FOB was rubber.
 

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I long ago replaced my dash lights, first with regular incandescent bulbs that I tinted blue with a sharpie, which were much brighter, then just the incandescent bulbs with no coloration, which are brighter still. The rubber caps, and I have OEM ones, cut out a huge part of the light even when both the cap and the bulb are brand new.

If you want bright, with blue, today I'd do this with LED bulbs and you can get the correct size for our cars that screw in just like the originals do.

The instructions for removing the dash wood (facia) are in Chapter S, section S10, of the Workshop Manual for the One Series cars.
 

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From the RR & Bentley Parts, Repair, Restoration & Other Resources Compilation
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LED Replacement Bulbs/Lamps:
The best prices I鈥檝e found anywhere, and a very wide selection (including non-automotive) are available at:
http://ledlight.com
Also see LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories | Super Bright LEDs for a wide selection of styles, colors, and color temperatures.
-----

If you were to want something approaching the original color, I'd be buying blue tinted bulbs and tossing the "lamp condoms" that were used by Crewe. Those things cut down the functional light output of those tiny lamps by a massive amount.
 

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I converted to LED lights on my SY-I and it transformed the dash lighting. All gauges and switches are now perfectly illuminated.

The SY1 uses two types of bulb. One is a T10 wedge:

https://www.ledlight.com/t10-wedge-8-1210-smt-forward-firing-leds.aspx

and the other is the E5 miniature:

https://www.ledlight.com/e5-midget-round-1-led-multiple-voltage.aspx

All the bulbs I bought were white light. The T10 wedges replace the bulbs for the gauges. The gauges on the SY1 have a blue filter, so white light LEDs were ok to use.

The dash switches are illuminated by the E5 miniatures. The original bulbs had little blue condoms on them, but since two were missing I opted to paint the LEDs wiith enamel paint from Michael's, used by model makers.

If you opt to go the LED route, remember they are polarity sensitive. This is not a problem with the T10 wedges as they can simply be reversed in the holder. The E5 miniatures were more problematic as they screw into bulb holders. I found two of the bulb holders were wired the "wrong" way round but fortunately I had the top roll off at the time and was able to simply reverse the connectors behind the dash.

The whole job is very straight forward and well worth doing, in my opinion.

The other point to remember is there is no half illumination for LEDs - they are either on or off, so the panel switch becomes redundant.
 

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The other point to remember is there is no half illumination for LEDs - they are either on or off, so the panel switch becomes redundant.
While that was once the case, it need not be if you buy dimmable bulbs, and those are available:
E5 Midget Screw LED Flat Top 6 To 12 Volt DC Dim-able 90 Degree - Automotive - Other - LEDLight
Midget Screw Concave LED Light 12 VDC 90 Degree Dim-able E5 - Automotive - LEDLight
Midget Screw Round 6 12 24 VDC T 1-3/4 Dim-able 90 Degree E5 - Automotive - Low Voltage - LEDLight
1.5 Watt LED T10 Wedge with Lens 12 VDC Dim-able - Automotive - LEDLight
[It can sometimes be worth looking at the light throw pattern, but I can't remember which might cause more light to be thrown where one wants it at the moment. It's been too long since I dug into the dash.]
 

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The attached should be of general help. It shows all the incandescent lamps, but cross referencing them to their LED equivalents is not difficult.
 

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A photo of the bulb would be helpful. I need to look in my owner's handbook, as I long ago "translated" the lamp designations to their standard lamp numbers, but a photo of the lamp in question goes a long way.
 

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If you search on 5007 at the LED lamp site previously mentioned, you'll be presented with a number of options.

Given the application, the G18/1156 bulbs that have the small LEDs with little bubble lenses on them (e.g., G18 3 LED, G18 6 LED, G18 8 LED - I can't imagine needing more than 3 leds) are most likely to be the best if front light is mostly what's needed. I can't recall precisely where the original 5007s are used. If you need both front and side light, then a low profile version of the G18/1156 with the square LEDs arrayed around the side and on top (like this one) would be the best choice.

What matters is the direction(s) of light throw you need and just how bright you want it.
 

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Well, just look at "the base of the base" to see if it's got two contacts, versus one, and that will determine whether an 1156 versus 1157 (both G18) would be needed.

It's been too long since I last physically had the bulb in hand. I always matched base type and contact type and that was that (of course, I considered just how bright I wanted things to be, too).
 
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