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Arnage T MY 05
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A Bentley Arnage requires some rather unusual fluids. They are quite expensive to buy from the dealer or the usual sources. The car's manual isn't a great help to find alternatives for known reasons.

This is a short thread to summarize the choices I’ve made for my Arnage T MY 05.

Hydraulic fluid:
Bentley already mentions Pentosin CHF 11 S as a matching replacement for the RHS 5000 factory fill. Pentosin is a trade mark that has been sold. Currently it his held by a company that is called Fuchs and the fluid trades now as “Fuchs TITAN CHF 11S”
TITAN CHF 11S | Automotive lubricants | FUCHS SCHMIERSTOFFE GMBH
There are alternatives that fulfill the same specifications and have the same approvals:
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=BMW+83290429576
In this thread you find a description how to change the fluid:
Arnage: changing hydraulic fluid

Gearbox oil (MY 01 - MY 07):
The Gearbox is a standard GM 4L80-E transmission. It’s a truck (American English) transmission that is able to handle a lot of torque (e.g., in a Hummer).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_4L80-E_transmission
Based on my research this transmission runs well with Dextron VI specification gearbox oil
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON#2005_–_DEXRON-VI(J)
Here some example discussion about the topic:
4l80e - Dex Iii Or Dex Vi?
Changing gearbox oil works the same as for other cars with automatic transmissions. Bentley spares for filter and seal are of superior quality BTW.
The seal for example is made of a stiff rubber with a softer rubber lip in the middle of the seal and the holes for the bolts are sleeved with metal. I’ve never seen such a thing on a gearbox seal anywhere else.
Standard replacements work as good, but it's a great feeling to know you have such a high quality seal on your gearbox :geek:.

Engine oil:
I continue to suspect “thin” oil to be involved in engine damage from the ~1998-2008 manufacturing period of cars (e.g. Porsche 996 and 997.1 non-Mezger engines etc). This happened on the background of new emission regulations, which put an even stronger focus on the emissions during warm-up. The emissions during warm-up are reduced if the cold oil is thin. Therefore, manufacturers can’t recommend the oil that would actually be best for their engines.
Having followed a lot of the oil discussions from the Mezger-community I’m only using 10W60 on my Bentley. This thick oil has the additional advantage that it is supposed to provide better (because more heat resistant) lubrification to the turbos.
The use of 10W60 is a little bit like snake oil as I’m not an engine expert. I believe in the stuff, and it has worked for me so far.

Water coolant:
The engine in the 2001-2009 Arnage is an updated version of the classic RR-engine. Hence I’ve identified BASF Glysantin G48 as the best replacement.
Product Finder
I buy it directly off ebay, where it costs ~6$/l.

Differential fluid:
The differential in the Arnage is not very special (set aside the fact that it has to handle a lot of torque) and (rather unfortunately I’d say) hasn’t limited slip friction plates inside. Therefore I’ve opted to use standard API GL-5 specification fluid with a large temperature range.
As fluids with large temperature range are for performance applications they now often contain limited slip (LS) additives. These additives don’t to any harm to the differential if doesn’t have the LS plates.
My choice was CASTROL SYNTRAX LIMITED SLIP 75W-140 as I couldn't find any large temperature range fluid without LS additives.

Brake fluid:
Any standard DOT 4 fluid will do.
In the absence of a limited slip differential the rear brakes are used very often by the ESP. The weight of the car requires front brakes to work quite hard as well. Therefore it’s essential to change the fluid very very regularly. More often than on your Ferrari 😉.
I’ve had the traction control light come on when the brake fluid was too old, as the ESP somehow realizes that the rear brakes aren’t doing what they are supposed to do …. I’ve had to flush several times to get rid of this issue.

Fuel:
There are some differences of opinion with regards to the use of E10 fuel
E10 Fuel confusing information

Hope someone finds this helpful.
 

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You exceed my "example" and your synthesis impress me !

Few personal remarks , if I may complete your usefull and remarkable synthesis:

- transmission, I have used Dexron III H , considering that was the upper evolution you could put safely in those indeed old gear box. Dexron IIIH went out in 2003, and Dexron VI J just after in 2005. The risk having a too sophisticated and synthetic oil is old seal material = leaks.

Engine : I have been using 10 W 60 Castrol Edge since many years in Turbo and non turbo cars including german cars and have been extremely satisfied. For all turbo cars ....w 60 being the upper grade when the oil is hot is crucial for Turbo cars as 90 % of the oil is crossing the " burning" turbo.to cool it, so the oil film should be extremely resistant to high temps.
To be replaced every 2 years max, even if the car as made 0 km.

Coolant : I use the blue Mercedes G48 in all cars, in my opinion best compromise for all its properties ( including the very damaging galvanic corrosion)
To be replaced every 3 years max, even if the car has made 0 km

Differential : I am using 80 W90 also in all cars, ... W140 being in my opinion a little too high

Brake : LHM + for SZ cars , or DOT 4 + for other cars ( could be found at Mercedes too)

Maintenance is the key to enjoy cars and reduce the risk of failures.
 

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Regarding Fuel, forgot to give my modest opinion

Ethanol is alcohol and alcohol contains water....which is not the best for engines

Personal I choose the lowest ethanol rate , 5% here, and the max octane, 98 % here , and I choose a premium company which is known for being a producer and offering high quality gas .

I consider that quality of products, oil, gas, filters, spare parts.... is issential and it is the minimum you can do to maintain mechanic and reduce failures.
Second most important is regularity for maintenance based on Mileage OR on Time, the fist which comes.
Last point is the way you drive, a car needs to be warm before starting to play with engine and transmission and that can take 20 to 30 km before all fluids and engine structure/ elements are hot and tight.
A mechanic with top quality products will not suffer and will last longer
 

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In my Mercedes M119 I used to put 15W50 also, before I found the Castrol Edge easily
SO yes, same opinion as Grease Donkey, better than 0W or 5W

On turbo cars, the second number after W is essential because its when the oil is hot

Just remember that 15W needs time to warm the oil when cold
 

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Man, that's some heavy weight oil. I've been putting Shell Rotella 15W40 in my GF's M104 and thought that was heavy. I figure if it'll hold up in a diesel it'll hold up in anything.

What sort of ATF is best for the later ZF transmissions?

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
 

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Depends where you leave.
15W is limit for some countries in Europe with cold winter, oil is thick when cold. 10W is indeed better for all seasons for cold start
Let the oil warm
When enginewarm,W 50/60 is better

Late ZF transmissions, which year ?
 

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I'm thinking I may split the difference and just use Rotella 15W40. Some strong arguments but 60 seems incredibly thick. It'll make life slightly easier multiple cars running the same oil anyway.

@alabbasi , what would you consider the minimum outside temp for 15wX oil? Not a concern for the next few months but it does get pretty cold out here in CO at times.
 

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@a_moderate_mistake . I think that Bentley specifies 0W40 for the Arnage T (at least for my 2003) which is the European car formula and is readily available at Walmart and often on sale for under $23 for 5 quarts. I would pick that over 15w40 in your case for a few reasons:


1) 15w40 as a dyno oil costs more when you consider that you only get 4 quarts in a jug
2) I put synthetic 15w40 in my E320 CDI this winter because I couldn’t find 5w30 diesel oil anywhere and it made a racket on cold days. Those are cold days in Texas not Colorado!
3) Diesel synthetic oil is getting hard to find and costs a pretty penny
4) 15w40 is the high zinc formula that would roast your catalytic convers

I understand why Jean and others suggest 10w60 oil. It's what's recommended on my Aston Martin and my old E39 BMW M5. Some later BMW //M owners have reported bearing issues, and some suggest that it's attributed to lighter weight oils. Some Mercedes mechanics have also suggested the same with the newer twin turbo v8's in the AMG GT and other 63 cars.

That said, BMW owners tend to track their cars and drive them hard which can exasperate the issue.

I don't know enough to make a specific recommendation about the upper numbers but I would be leery of a thicker oil at startup if I lived in a colder climate.

@Grease Donkey owns an Arnage T and uses 10W60 so he would be more qualified to respond (which I think he has).

You could split the difference and go with 5w50 which is offered by Redline, Motul and Liqy Molly, It does cost a bit more than M1 0w40 or 5w40.
 

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How can you valuate W60 thickness ? I mean when you see 10W60 in a can it is cold, so you are refering to the first number 10
60 is when hot , when you drain the engine oil , 10W60 is liquid
Many manufacturer think the oil film should be fluid when cold and thicker when hot.

Al yes, 10W60 Castrol Edge is officially recommended for some BMW including M series
Yes for Aston, recently Ferrari

Moderate mistake, 10W40 synthetic is an excellent compromise. In Europe, 15W is indeed thick in winter when you start for example at around starting at 6 ° C = 43 °F
 
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