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Discussion Starter #1
I think my alternator is bad; after an extended stay at a friend's house where the car was on a "battery tender" of some brand, I drove home and turned the engine off. I immediately tried to restart it, to no avail. This morning I recharged the battery and it fired up. I noted the voltmeter read about 11-12 volts, but increasing the engine rpm did not change the voltmeter reading.

This car has had a miserable life with previous owners and I would like to know if the alternator in the images appears to be a Delco-Remy; the Bentley site says it should be a Delco, 108 Amp rating. The only number I see on the alternator is 7882 904, I believe.

How can I get someone to test it in the car; is this possible?

Expertise solicited.

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You might have roasted your battery on the battery charger. I've had it happen to me 6-7 times where the charger just starts acting out and eventually either over charges the battery or thinks it's fully charged and let's it completely drain.

Try swapping out the battery with a good battery and see what it does.
 

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If the battery was fine, but the alternator bad, then I'd still expect the battery to have held its charge overnight. If its dead the next day (depending on how many miles you drove it of course), sounds more like a toasted battery, unless you've got some significant parasitic draw to drop it 12v overnight. A left open door, headlight, radio, open boot/trunk 'might' do that. I'd recharge the battery, run a parasitic draw test on each fuse and then go from there. I've gone through three dead batteries recently in my kid's cars in the last few months through lack of use, over charging, and dark drains (fortunately not my Spur though who's setting the bar).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You might have roasted your battery on the battery charger. I've had it happen to me 6-7 times where the charger just starts acting out and eventually either over charges the battery or thinks it's fully charged and let's it completely drain.

Try swapping out the battery with a good battery and see what it does.
I DID CHECK FOR PARASITIC DRAW IN FOUND 0.33 AMPS FOR THE CELL PHONE AND SEAT MEMORY . WHEN I REMOVED THAT FUSE, THE DRAW WAS 0.0 AMP.S. I'LL CHARGE THE BATTERY AND WILL SEE IF IT STARTS AND RUNS THIS MORNING AFTER IT SITS FOR 4-6 HOURS
 

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I DID CHECK FOR PARASITIC DRAW IN FOUND 0.33 AMPS FOR THE CELL PHONE AND SEAT MEMORY . WHEN I REMOVED THAT FUSE, THE DRAW WAS 0.0 AMP.S. I'LL CHARGE THE BATTERY AND WILL SEE IF IT STARTS AND RUNS THIS MORNING AFTER IT SITS FOR 4-6 HOURS
That's a good plan. I bought a load tester from HF for about $20 which does a pretty decent job of telling you if the battery is bad, but like I said. Sometimes, these charger / maintainers don't behave as they should and they end up doing more damage than good.
 

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My 88 Spur Service Schedule TSD4702 does indicate the following for testing the alternator (which the Workshop Manual states is a Delco CS144 108 amperes). This might be your next step if 1) the battery hasn't gone down over night and is still fully charged, and 2) that pesky fuse suddenly decides to stops drawing from the battery when it should be sleeping (which in itself could indicate a short somewhere):

Check the alternator for correct operation

The alternator has sealed bearings with lifetime lubrication in both end frames and no periodic maintenance of the alternator is required. To test that the alternator output is satisfactory proceed as follows.

Ensure that the battery is in good condition (see Check the state of charge of the battery). Switch on the ignition and check that the ignition warning lamp illuminates.
Start the engine: the ignition warning lamp should extinguish.
Apply a demand to the alternator by switching on the headlamps and adjusting the air conditioning system to the defrost position.
Allow the engine and alternator to attain their normal running temperature, then adjust the engine speed to 1000 rev/min.
Using a multimeter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. The voltage reading should be between 13.5 volts and 14.5 volts.

If an alternator fault is suspected, a full alternator test procedure as described in TSD 4701 Workshop Manual Electrical, Section 8 should be undertaken.

Another thing Jim Walters mentioned in a related alternator post was:

There are a couple ways to check alternator diodes without removing the unit. If you have a digital multimeter, connect the black to ground and the red to positive battery post. Switch the meter to AC voltage and run the engine, if more than .5 volts AC then diodes are failing. If no multimeter, take a portable AM radio and tune it between stations so you only get static. Run the engine and hold the radio withing 3 or 4 feet of the engine and if there is a bad diode you will get a whining sound corresponding to the engine RPM's from the radio.

Their suspect alternator issue turned out to be a diode.

One thing I do notice is that your alternator casing does look damaged. Has it been like this since you bought the car? My 88 Spur JCX22363 made a few months after yours looks like this from the same angle. Might not be relevant, but worth knowing.
 

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Ok so for the benefit of other readers that come along and peruse this post in the future mikebentleyturbo2 is the only one that has posted a picture of an alternator. The other pictures in this thread are of air injection pumps. You really don't want the embarrassment of removing an air pump thinking it is the alternator and taking it in to an electrical shop for rebuilding.
 

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Ok so for the benefit of other readers that come along and peruse this post in the future mikebentleyturbo2 is the only one that has posted a picture of an alternator. The other pictures in this thread are of air injection pumps. You really don't want the embarrassment of removing an air pump thinking it is the alternator and taking it in to an electrical shop for rebuilding.
Well, I'm still learning about my Spur, so this is great to know (though mildly embarrassing). Learn a new thing every day! Looks like a broken air pump casing in which case!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Jim Walters- thanks for being so gentle in your reply to a dumb a__ like me that could not tell the difference between an air pump and an alternator! Old age has overtaken me.

I found that I have lost the alternator belt.......now to replace it
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, now that I have found the "real" alternator and have removed the 8 mm cap screw, loosened the 2 belt tensioners and loosened the 17 mm bolt near the base of the A/C unit mounting plate next to the air pump, what other bolts nuts need loosening or removing so that I can move the A/C compressor, enabling removal of its belt to the crank pulley?

Cheers!
 
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