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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, 83 silver spirit, testing the weakener solenoid, procedure states that test bulb should be on as vehicle warms up, therefore I would expect there to be continuity through the airflow otter switch until engine warms up, is that correct? When i bridge the connector there certainly is an improvement in engine running with the solenoid activated.
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Yes, the car will probably run better with the weakener solenoid activated, as your picture shows, but the otter switch in the air intake only operates when temperatures are low, I do not know at what temp it switches on. To test them, drop it in the freezer for a minute, you will find it has switched from open circuit to closed, that then allows the weakener solenoid to cut in.
The workshop manual says nothing about when the weakener shuts off, only how to test the wiring.
The weakener on my Shadow 11, which is the same as your car, is open, or on, the whole time in the summer.
Perhaps a member on here will know more about the weakener system than the workshop manual.

Jake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, the car will probably run better with the weakener solenoid activated, as your picture shows, but the otter switch in the air intake only operates when temperatures are low, I do not know at what temp it switches on. To test them, drop it in the freezer for a minute, you will find it has switched from open circuit to closed, that then allows the weakener solenoid to cut in.
The workshop manual says nothing about when the weakener shuts off, only how to test the wiring.
The weakener on my Shadow 11, which is the same as your car, is open, or on, the whole time in the summer.
Perhaps a member on here will know more about the weakener system than the workshop manual.

Jake.
Hi Jake, that's for the information, I will try the freezer trick, but I think as with any bimetallic switch once its gone, its gone. I've just seen Westminster breakers have a used one, but I'm wondering if it can just be deleted? Leave it in for looks, but bridge it in the loom.
 

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Hi Jake, that's for the information, I will try the freezer trick, but I think as with any bimetallic switch once its gone, its gone. I've just seen Westminster breakers have a used one, but I'm wondering if it can just be deleted? Leave it in for looks, but bridge it in the loom.
IMHO, if you do that the engine will run too rich. The thermostatic switch should be open circuit all the time, with the temperatures we have at the moment, I suspect if you get another Otter switch it will be the same as you have already. I have a few and they are all the same, only close circuit when it is really cold.
Does your engine run that bad that shutting off the weakener improves it a lot?
If so, check for vacuum leaks on all the pipes and the cruise control.

Jake.
 

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Another thing to try is to pull the pipe off the weakener device that goes to the float chamber drain valve at the front of the engine, then block off with your finger where the pipe has been removed. If the engine runs a little better doing that then the drain valve is faulty, that should only allow air and liquids one way, out.

Jake.
 
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