Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums banner
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Discussion starter · #22 ·
From what I read and looked up on the websites, this is a combination. It acts as both. How I dont know. But it does. I tested it and it has minimal voltage, like almost nothing. But it still has voltage and everything about this on there websites says it’s also a battery. So when my battery went dead, for which I let happen for a month, it drained this and it can’t be charged. So it also lost the programming to the fobs.
 
Given that this thread was miscatorgorized and it's an SZ car and not an Arnage / Sereph era car. A lot of what was said will not apply. This is the only module under the dash, you don't have a module under the back seat. The module under the dash is the only module you have and controls both the alarm and the immobilizer. The siren has the battery backup.

Watching my videos on the 98 Brooklands might help as I had plenty of problems with mine.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Good Morning. I decided to take out the siren just in case. I still have 3.2v. I know it’s supposed to be 7.2v. Have you ever had an issue if it is below 7.v, the immobilizer still has an issue. I would think that if there is any voltage it should still work. It is a rechargeable battery and since I have had the car sitting for a while without the battery hooked up, it would have been depleted by now. So it’s holding a charge, but not 7.2v…. Does it have to be 7.2v to work ? Thank You 🙏
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Well to all you doubters out there. If fixed my immobilizer myself and it only cost me $40 in parts. It does have a current in the immobilizer that holds for about 15 days and then it goes dead. No matter what, if it goes dead or you need parts first, you will have to code the key fobs to the immobilizer again. Next I am going to try and code the keys and will use a rif reader/writer to get them going. I bought a Omitec and Omiscan and a Mastertech and going to see what each one does for each issue with the immobilizer and programming. But I also Know the fobs will be no problem. There are small items that also need to be replaced. One day in the future I will document what I did, so you all can save $2,500. I might sell one of the units, but they are extremely expensive. I will decide later.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
First the capacitor in a circuit, you can use a multimeter to measure its capacitance:


  1. Power off: Ensure the circuit is powered off and verify with the multimeter.


  2. Discharge capacitor: Safely discharge the capacitor using a resistor.


  3. Remove capacitor: Detach the capacitor from the circuit.


  4. Set multimeter: Switch the multimeter to capacitance measurement mode.


  5. Connect leads: Attach the multimeter's test leads to the capacitor terminals.


  6. Read value: Note the value on the multimeter's display panel.


  7. Compare values: Compare the measured value with the nominal value printed on the capacitor or the manufacturer's datasheet. A difference of more than 10% indicates a faulty capacitor.
Next confirm bad compacitor…

Next use Omitec or Omiscan to reprogram the key fobs and immobilizer.

Done…
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts