The immobilizer code varies from car to car, so your car will have a unique immobilizer code. Usually, the code is printed on a sticker attached to your immobilizer (under the driver's knee roll).

 

My immobilizer is under the dash. I have taken it out already. I had to get a reconditioned one about 10 years ago. I was able to get a replacement immobilizer and 2 fobs by John Palma Rolls Royce in New Jersey. Also replaced the siren with a new one at that time.

 

Just curious, wouldn't it be possible to delete all immobilizer coding from the vehicle with the omiscan tool.

 

No

 

No

Ok. Here is my long version of what has happened.
I have a 1999 silver spur, vin # 66567, with only 11,000 miles on it. I’m the original owner. I am also a retired certified ase master mechanic, but NOT on any Rolls Royce. Almost every other manufacturer. I didn’t have any Rolls Royce customers so not worth getting a certification for the rolls. Now… The car was fine, but battery became bad. Waited about a month and then Bought a new battery and put it in and the central lock system started opening and closing by itself. Couldn’t get it to stop, even the fob and key in ignition didn’t stop it. Only way to stop was disconnecting battery. Got frustrated and disconnected new battery and didn’t come back to it for a month. In the meantime I looked up issues and when I put in reference Actually watched every video of videos are extremely informative and understandable. Everything I read and saw, looked like I have to find which central lock actuator was slightly stuck to cause the system to trigger the continuous locks going up and down. Decided to start with drivers front door and took out lock actuator and didn’t see any issue, so I put back, but left the door panel off just in case. I reconnected the battery and the lock issue went away. But as soon as I reconnected the battery now the alarm would now sound and not go off, only for a few seconds and then go off again. Got no response using anything, key, fobs or anything else etc. I bought a new siren and a reconditioned immobilizer from John Palma a few years ago and that fixed problem, but no lock issue back then. Now siren sound works, but still nothing and no stopping alarm siren. Key turns on everything in the run position and everything powers up, but the lock button inside would not actuate the door locks. But windows etc. work. Now turned key to start position but still no crank, only park light is on, but once I move from reverse to drive, no light on selector. Even with key on, siren still going off until I disconnect battery. Should I replace the siren or battery, but they’re only a few years old. None of the keys before and now ever stopped or engaged the alarm. Keys only good for opening doors. The way it was, was I had to use the fob to unlock and lock car, first. Then could use key to start car. So no fob, no anything. Will the immobilizer be replaced or do siren battery first. Also If I get the immobilizer, should keys do everything the immobilizer does, so if I have a problem, like the fob does not work. Can I just use the key. Also if the key should do everything, should I have to buy a part, so the key system works. Maybe you can code the keys to the new immobilizer. Will the siren work even if the immobilizer does not. Could it be that when the cars battery was dead for the month, could the immobilizer and fobs stop communicating with each other. Maybe you just need to just reprogram them to reconnect to each other again. I did replace the fob batteries. If they stop communicating, maybe the immobilizer is still good, I just need to send both so you can reprogram them. Could that be the problem with the immobilizer not allowing the car to turn off the immobilizer and the system starts working. Is there something I can do, so you can diagnose what is wrong and I can send to you. It just makes no sense that everything was fine, then the battery went dead, then put in new battery, and the central lock goes bad, then look at that, no issues able to be seen. Put back together and alarm siren goes off and nothing works at all. I need your knowledge and help, so you can give me a better answer on what to send you. Please… Thank You, Scott

 

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Thank You that is great insight… I’m going to take out the siren and see if the battery is bad or the siren is corroded. On the module do you have a picture or part number so I can get one. I cannot find the part on Flyingspares or introcar. So that must be why I don’t know about there being 2 separate systems.

 

I see you are very active on the site and everyone wants your knowledge. That’s a good thing, being able to help people. No I am one of your folllowers. One question. Let’s say my fobs lost programming to my immobilize, then everything won’t work also. Have you ever run into that and all you had to do was reprogram the unit to the fobs… I’m sure the unit is ok. Just my gut feeling as a mechanic, but Rolls is another breed to me and at this time, I’m not liking this breed at all…

 

deleted as not relevant to the SZ models

 

Here you go

 

Hey Al, this is Scott. Wanted to let you know that I just opened up the immobilizer for my 1999 Silver Spur and there is a capacitor/battery in the unit. It is dead so I just ordered the exact same battery. So whatever they are telling us is incorrect. See pictures. as soon as I get the part I will put it in and see how it goes. I’m now going to take out the siren and see if there is a capacitor/battery in that. I did that another time and it had a battery also. So something is nr corr3ct. My system is a Clifford system. Have you ever taken the immobilizer apart before. If it works, well I think the whole forum is going to freak out…

 

Look

 

 

The above is the same alarm module that's in my 98 Brooklands (SZ model). I sent that unit out to be repaired to introcar when it was giving me problem. On the SZ cars, the alarm and immobilizer are controlled by this unit. It actually does a lot more from what I understand, like the number of seconds to keep the lights on after you shut off the car. Was the dead cap in this module or in the immobilizer under the dash?

 

Well why do they tell us on this model the battery is in the siren. Maybe there’s one in each. But your and mine are the exact same ones.

 

It wash under the dash.

 

Do me a favor. Please open up your siren and see if it has a battery in it and if so please send me a picture of everything inside. I’m taking mine out either today or tomorro…

 

Well why do they tell us on this model the battery is in the siren. Maybe there’s one in each. But your and mine are the exact same ones.

There's a backup battery in the siren so that the siren will sound if the battery is disconnected. It's not a small capacitor battery but a block of batteries that are taped together as you would find on a 90's era cordless phone. They're in the siren next to the board. The smart money is to relocate them out of the siren so that if they leak, it won't be all over the siren.

 

Great idea. I’m going to do that with the immobilizer also… so there are 2 batteries. Why don’t they tell us. I bet when we sent the immobilizer to be repaired it only needed a new battery/capacitor. We we know now. Probably need to recode the fey fob to the immobilizer if the battery went dead. But the Omitec can do it. I just bought one, but it’s the Omitec omiscan unit.

 

Scott, you are using the term battery/capacitor. These are two different things. Could you please clarify that you found a battery in the immobilizer? Your pictures only show capacitors, no battery.

 

From what I read and looked up on the websites, this is a combination. It acts as both. How I dont know. But it does. I tested it and it has minimal voltage, like almost nothing. But it still has voltage and everything about this on there websites says it’s also a battery. So when my battery went dead, for which I let happen for a month, it drained this and it can’t be charged. So it also lost the programming to the fobs.

 

Given that this thread was miscatorgorized and it's an SZ car and not an Arnage / Sereph era car. A lot of what was said will not apply. This is the only module under the dash, you don't have a module under the back seat. The module under the dash is the only module you have and controls both the alarm and the immobilizer. The siren has the battery backup.

Watching my videos on the 98 Brooklands might help as I had plenty of problems with mine.

 

Do you have a picture of what mastercheck model is for the older rolls Royce. I think a found one, but not sure it’s the correct model before I buy it.

 

Save your money. The Omitec supersedes the Mastercheck and carries all the functionality without the need of additional cards. It will cover all cars from 1992-2009 with the 6.75 liter and a BMW engines.

 

Good Morning. I decided to take out the siren just in case. I still have 3.2v. I know it’s supposed to be 7.2v. Have you ever had an issue if it is below 7.v, the immobilizer still has an issue. I would think that if there is any voltage it should still work. It is a rechargeable battery and since I have had the car sitting for a while without the battery hooked up, it would have been depleted by now. So it’s holding a charge, but not 7.2v…. Does it have to be 7.2v to work ? Thank You 🙏

 

Well to all you doubters out there. If fixed my immobilizer myself and it only cost me $40 in parts. It does have a current in the immobilizer that holds for about 15 days and then it goes dead. No matter what, if it goes dead or you need parts first, you will have to code the key fobs to the immobilizer again. Next I am going to try and code the keys and will use a rif reader/writer to get them going. I bought a Omitec and Omiscan and a Mastertech and going to see what each one does for each issue with the immobilizer and programming. But I also Know the fobs will be no problem. There are small items that also need to be replaced. One day in the future I will document what I did, so you all can save $2,500. I might sell one of the units, but they are extremely expensive. I will decide later.

 

What was the problem and what did you do to fix it What testing did you do
regards Tim