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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody, Bought a 95 Brooklands non - runner. Was told the back brakes are locked. When checked, I find the brakes to be OK but the def is not turning in Neutral. The shift lever is moving fine, but not the linkage on the left side of trany underneath. Ordered a CD from eBay, until it arrives in Japan, can somebody enlighten me of any possible cause/s for this ???
Thanx in advance.
 

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The gearchange actuation is electrical.

The first thing to do is to check your fuses and the relay for the gearchange actuator. The two fuses seem to be on board F1, fuse B4, 4 amp and on board F2, fuse A2, 20 amp.

There are also microswitches involved, but that would be something to look at after the above.

If you are getting a full copy of TSD6000 (the workshop/parts/man-hour schedule software system) for your car check out Chapter T once you get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
guyslp said:
The gearchange actuation is electrical.

The first thing to do is to check your fuses and the relay for the gearchange actuator. The two fuses seem to be on board F1, fuse B4, 4 amp and on board F2, fuse A2, 20 amp.

There are also microswitches involved, but that would be something to look at after the above.

If you are getting a full copy of TSD6000 (the workshop/parts/man-hour schedule software system) for your car check out Chapter T once you get it.
Thanx for the valuble info, which I do not posses now.
Will do as advised.
I called everythingrollsroyce in London for a 1990-2000 manual they are selling for 18 pounds (as this would be quicker than eBay item coming from US,) at 4pm london - 1am Japan but was unable to contact them. So I sent an eMail for a Paypal Invoice. I hope this e-manual would contain more detailed info of the system as you describe. 1.30 am here now. Will check this out tomorrow and will post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The first thing to do is to check your fuses and the relay for the gearchange actuator. The two fuses seem to be on board F1, fuse B4, 4 amp and on board F2, fuse A2, 20 amp.

Checked the two fuses, they are not blown.

Will have to wait for the manual now, or can you suggest an alternative?

Thanx again.
 

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I don't know if this will help, but download the attached image, which is section T34-1 on the gearchange actuator from TSD6000.

There are a lot of things that could be going wrong here, so exploring the Workshop Manual may end up being your best bet.

I can also strongly recommend you visit the RROC-AustraliaTee-One Topics Archive and take a look at the Index through Issue 63 to see if there is anything that strikes you as possibly applicable to your situation. Also, you may wish to consider joining the RROC-Australia Discussion Forums (which are open to anyone) and the Rolls-Royce Owners' Club (US) since their members' only forums are one of the best sources of person-to-person support from those who've "been there-done that" for almost any issue you can think of for RR/Bentley cars of any era.

 

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I never thought to ask before, but what else that is electrical is operating correctly and consistently?

On that note I recently saw a post on the RROC forums from the owner of a 1993 Bentley Brooklands that is experiencing intermittent and unpredictable "blackouts" that have typically been temporarily resolved by flipping the battery isolator switch. Someone offered the following to check:

Consider the following 3 possible points for a poor connection:
1. The isolator switch itself.
2. The main leads from the battery terminal run to a post under the body. That post can be an issue.
3. The main positive feed to the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
guyslp said:
I never thought to ask before, but what else that is electrical is operating correctly and consistently?

On that note I recently saw a post on the RROC forums from the owner of a 1993 Bentley Brooklands that is experiencing intermittent and unpredictable "blackouts" that have typically been temporarily resolved by flipping the battery isolator switch. Someone offered the following to check:

Consider the following 3 possible points for a poor connection:
1. The isolator switch itself.
2. The main leads from the battery terminal run to a post under the body. That post can be an issue.
3. The main positive feed to the alternator.
Brian, you are wonderful.
As a matter of fact, I had the same problem - intermittently no power on dash etc at the beginning - now since yesterday no power is showing on dash at all. When I insert the ign key the steering is activating to memory pos.n, but no power to windows too. I can only spend limited time on this now, hence waiting for the DVD and will look at the above as per your posting. Thanx again and again. (for some reason my lap is not opening the PDF files on RROC forum and has to resolve that too)
 
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