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Don't waste money on pressure gauges and specialty tools. You will never recoup the expense and 99% of the time your car is in pressure specification
28371


OK here's a 20% off coupon to drop the price down to around $72. If you want to work on a CIS system. It's definitely a good tool to have. I expect that it will pay for itself before too long.
 

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Just found the fuel delivery volume test and specifications:
Page B4-37 - Procedure 8 Checking the operation of the primary fuel circuit Fuel delivery

At least 10 liters (2.2 Imp gal, 2.6 US gall of fuel should be delivered into the measuring container within 5 minutes.

I would just run the pump for 30 seconds. You should have at least 1L of fuel in your graduated cylinder.

That is a LOT of fuel. Your average car is 500-750cc in 30 seconds.
 

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1l in 30 seconds is about normal for CIS. That's what I remember from trouble shooting Mercedes Benz back in the day.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
thank you!
I have not yet welded in the O2 Sensor bung required for the Innovate LM2, so the car has been taken to a shop with a tail pipe "sniffer" Car does not have catalytic convertors, so the tail pipe readings can be used.

after new fuel injectors, new fuel injector rubber seals, a number of new hose clamps on various hoses, and all vacuum leaks sealed, once the car was on the exhaust gas analyzer the engine was running WAY rich. I am guessing previous owner/previous tech was compensating for the shrunken down injector sleeves and air leaks, etc. I am also guessing I might have gotten away with just replacing the rubber sleeves for each injector.

I wonder how long it takes for the rubber injector sleeves to shrink and harden and start to leak air? I suspect this issue may have been most of this engine's issue since i bought the car......

anyway, the engine running is now transformed. No more stalling at idle, no more rough running, and a TON more power, very smooth. Car is much nicer to drive. Great result, wish I had known about the hardened/shrunken/air leaking injector sleeves back when I first got the car.

in the never ending cycle of fix one thing and something else needs attention, for the third summer in a row the air conditioning has given up yet again since converted to R134a, had the shop put it on the test equipment, apparently needs at least another expansion valve and another receiver/dryer, which I have now ordered from IntroCar. I suspect they are likely just GM parts, but could not find a parts cross reference.

Paul LeClair
 

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It's very common for people to increase the richness of the mixture in order to hide hesitation or an uneven idle. It's good that you got it figured out. With regards to your a/c. Make sure you run it all year around. Often seals will shrink if not used which could cause leakage. Running the a/c year around will fix it.
Also note that R134a molecules are smaller than R12 molecules and R134a systems use barrier hoses which are lined to prevent this. If you're planning to open up the system. You should consider taking the hoses to a hydraulic shop that will remove the ends from your old hoses and replace the existing rubber hoses with barrier hoses.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
great suggestions, thanks. I did already have new air con hoses made locally, they even had new fittings that matched, and to have new lines with new fittings made was roughly 20% of the costs of Bentley parts.

the suggestion to run the air con year round to prevent seals shrinking is interesting. In the climate local to me, the car comes off the road, and returns to the road, the same times my motorcycles do. The car and the motorcycles are parked up no later than the end of October each year, and back on the road usually no earlier than late April, so off the road roughly 6 months of each year. Maybe that is why the air con in the car has been dead each spring......
 

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Yep, I frequent UK Mercedes Benz for forums and they talk about 're-gassing' A/C like it's part of the annual schedule.

It's probably one of those things that are not worth fixing. Either run it all year around or get some manifold gauges and top it off yourself . It's very unlikely that it's completely empty. More likely that it most some of the charge.
 
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