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I would start a program of cleaning and protecting every snap connection and earth terminals.
And to further this, any time you have to touch any electrical connection, anywhere, on the car you should clean it by whatever means works (this can be things like Caig DeOxIt spray or mechanical cleaning, it depends on how you can get at things) and then protecting the connection with electrically conductive grease when putting it back together. To me, electrically conductive grease is to electrical connections what anti-seize lubricant is to threaded connections. If both had been in existence and used consistently at the time of manufacture many of the issues we all encounter would never have come to pass in the first place.

For examples of these (I happen to use the first) see:

Sanchem NoOxID A-Special

Gardner-Bender Ox-Gard

There are others. And these products not only need not be slathered on in great globs, they should not be. The thinnest of protective layers is enough.
 

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It's more commonly called a condensor, and will have nothing to do with your no start situation. If it doesn't turn over when you turn the key to start, it is not anything to do with the ignition system. It will most likely be the starter solenoid from your description of failing to start from hot but could be a starter relay. The solution is to listen carefully for any sound under the hood, like a light or heavy click or none at all. If no clicking at all under the hood then you need to look at the ignition switchbox. It would be very unusual for it to fail just when warm, but possible. Have someone else turn the key to start with you listening carefully under the hood and report back if you hear anything, that is the first step.
 

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Have you determined that it is the solenoid? After running and when still hot and does not start, do you hear any clicks in the engine compartment? It may be a bad starter relay, starter solenoid, ignition switchbox, or the starter itself. The starter solenoid is part of the starter, it bolts on the side of it. Perhaps use a test light and when hot, see if you are getting power to the small terminal on the starter solenoid when you turn the key to start. That would allow you to determine whether the fault is with wiring or relays or with the solenoid and or starter. You need to pinpoint the source of the fault before you go replacing parts. Once you have determined that key switch power to start is getting to the starter solenoid or not you can correct faulty relays or remove the starter and replace it. Have you checked that the starter relay gets 12 volts on the white with red tracer wire when you turn the key to 'start'? That would be the first thing to test.
 
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