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1999 Rolls-Royce Silver Spur, British Racing Green
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Discussion Starter #1
I have just had a whole bunch of work done on my car. i mean a ton of deferred maintenance and minor repairs. It’s almost done and great except my check engine light came on. Shop found this and won’t return until they diagnose. Problem is when the OBDII is hooked up to all it tells them is idle speed and a few other basic bits. No error codes.

Should not need the Rolls-only scanner needed for the older SZ cars. Right?

One other thing. Didn’t need the axle bearing removal tool. As a turbo model the rear axles are splined and you don’t have that tapered axle with keyway as the other cars have.

Ley me add I thank you all for reading and providing any help you do. This is a really nice group and people greatly help one another.

Mark
 

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Mark, if the check engine light is on, the obd2 scanner should read the code. However I've found that some scanners function better than others in this sense. My old Autel DS708 can read a bunch of info on my 98 Brooklands. When I updated to an MS906 which is the newer model. It could not read anything on the Brooklands. The factory tool with the round plug will be able to get into just about any system available.
Remember that OBD2 was still pretty new back then and most auto manufacturers only put out the absolute basics in, which was usually emissions related info.

Even on my 98 and 2002 Mercedes. If you needed to get into any system, it would have to be through the round connector.

If you decide to make a road trip to DFW, is be happy to scan your car for you using the factory scan tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mark, if the check engine light is on, the obd2 scanner should read the code. However I've found that some scanners function better than others in this sense. My old Autel DS708 can read a bunch of info on my 98 Brooklands. When I updated to an MS906 which is the newer model. It could not read anything on the Brooklands. The factory tool with the round plug will be able to get into just about any system available.
Remember that OBD2 was still pretty new back then and most auto manufacturers only put out the absolute basics in, which was usually emissions related info.

Even on my 98 and 2002 Mercedes. If you needed to get into any system, it would have to be through the round connector.

If you decide to make a road trip to DFW, is be happy to scan your car for you using the factory scan tool.
Thank you! That is very kind. I think you are onto something—the scanners are too new. Need something older or your tool. In any case, all my mechanic claims he can get is five pieces of very basic data out of it that don’t help diagnose the problem.

I always like to think about what was changed. We flushed coolant. New lower radiator hose. New spark plugs. Took the flame trap apart and went thru it with proper parts. Clean air filter. New fuel filter out back. Changed the oil. Changed the trans fluid. One hydraulic line replaced. The rest of what we did was new brakes (discs and pads) and rear axle bearings. And new tires. None of that should have created this problem.

Now the car idles at about 1100 rpm and check engine light is on. Normalizes after 10-15 mins.

It is really cold right now here. Any thoughts beyond getting the car properly scanned?

Mark
 

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Check your coolant temp sensor, the one with two wires. Check wiring connection, then test it for resistance cold and hot. Check wiring to EHA and also the idle air valve. When you say it normalizes after 10 - 15 minutes, does it run fine after that? Does the light go out or stay on? You will need an RR Mastercheck or Bentley Omitec diagnostic unit to go further with a diagnosis if those checks don't rectify the fast idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Check your coolant temp sensor, the one with two wires. Check wiring connection, then test it for resistance cold and hot. Check wiring to EHA and also the idle air valve. When you say it normalizes after 10 - 15 minutes, does it run fine after that? Does the light go out or stay on? You will need an RR Mastercheck or Bentley Omitec diagnostic unit to go further with a diagnosis if those checks don't rectify the fast idle.
Jim—my understanding is light does go out then but will pass this on to my mechanic. Whatever it is has to be related to all the work we did and all the poking around. Thank you for your help!

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jim—my understanding is light does go out then but will pass this on to my mechanic. Whatever it is has to be related to all the work we did and all the poking around. Thank you for your help!

Mark
Check your coolant temp sensor, the one with two wires. Check wiring connection, then test it for resistance cold and hot. Check wiring to EHA and also the idle air valve. When you say it normalizes after 10 - 15 minutes, does it run fine after that? Does the light go out or stay on? You will need an RR Mastercheck or Bentley Omitec diagnostic unit to go further with a diagnosis if those checks don't rectify the fast idle.
Jim—one more question. Do you think that a vaccuum leak could have resulted from rebuilding and cleaning the flame trap?
 

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You know it may be related. If the flame trap was clogged and a vacuum leak elsewhere was compensating for it perhaps cleaning it is now allowing too much vacuum and triggers the check engine light. Long shot but something to look at. Check particularly the vacuum hoses going into the left front fender where the charcoal emissions canister is, and also that the gas cap has a good seal.
 

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You know it may be related. If the flame trap was clogged and a vacuum leak elsewhere was compensating for it perhaps cleaning it is now allowing too much vacuum and triggers the check engine light. Long shot but something to look at. Check particularly the vacuum hoses going into the left front fender where the charcoal emissions canister is, and also that the gas cap has a good seal.
I have a similar recurring issue with my '98 Spur. I had the thermostat changed, and also some hoses were changed,. which had become brittle. Now the check engine light comes on with a P0125 error code, which as far as I can tell, means insufficient coolant temperature. Can you let me know where the engine temp sensor is located, and what's the best way to check for vacuum leaks? .Thanks.
 

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Best way to check for vacuum leaks is to have a smoke test done. Engine temp sensor will be on the thermostat housing. See below for location. Maybe the guys that did the work didn't get the wire connector back on tight.

29429
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finally diagnosed the problem with my car. It was some sort of crankcase breather diaphragm that was torn. Creates a big vaccuum leak. The oil filler cap wasn’t tightened down when we first serviced the car and my mechanic said that was how they dealt with the problem.

Waiting for the part now. That’s all I can tell you. But glad the issue is pinpointed.
 

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Best way to check for vacuum leaks is to have a smoke test done. Engine temp sensor will be on the thermostat housing. See below for location. Maybe the guys that did the work didn't get the wire connector back on tight.

View attachment 29429
Thanks for your help. I'm having a hard time locating the thermostat housing, which I'm sure is staring me in the face. Which side of the engine is it on, I'm guessing the left when viewed from the front?
 

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Follow the top radiator hose back to the motor. The stat is under the cover. Renew the gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got my car back today after $8500 worth of work. All new brakes including rotors, new wheel bearings all around, new tires installed, flame trap rebuilt, crankcase breather fixed, a new radiator hose, rear window regulator rebuilt, new hydraulic hoses (a couple), trans fluid and filter, new coolant, windshield washer fixed, oil change, spark plugs, fuel filter, and a bunch of lights fixed. Really drives great now. No dash lights or alarm bypassed lights. To say it had some deferred maintenance is an understatement!
 
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