|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-12-2019 03:46 PM|
Originally Posted by Wraithman View Post
Ok i got it now from you Wraithman and Steve not safe driving it what a brake system lol
|11-12-2019 02:03 PM|
|Jim Walters||The warning lamps illuminating are not a really accurate indication of brake applications available but one should always err on the side of caution when so few applications illuminate the lamps. The brake pressure warning lamp switches are often faulty, I see them stuck both open and closed due to swelling of the fiber piston in the switch. In a perfect world you would have pressure gauges connected to the system to tell you exactly what brake pressure you have available. Some have attached permanent gauges into their systems for this reason. That said, if you only have five pumps before the warning lamps illuminate you should not be driving your car on the road until you have repaired the accumulators or ascertained exactly what your system pressures are. If you are travelling down a long hill with the engine at idle, making on and off applications of the brakes, you may run out of pressure as the pumps with the engine at idle may not be able to keep up with numerous applications of the brakes. Granted you will still have the master cylinder system available on your year but it will not stop the car quickly. Or, if the engine stalled as you were going down a hill the engine pumps would not be replenishing the system pressure and you could easily lose all brakes quickly in that scenario. With a two and a half ton car it is better to be safe than sorry where brakes are concerned.|
|11-12-2019 10:43 AM|
|Wraithman||The lights do not come on because while the car is running the 2 hydraulic pumps on top of the motor are working and providing pressure. The lights come on when pressure is deleted.|
|11-12-2019 10:30 AM|
Originally Posted by Jim Walters View Post
And yes STEVE i will send them out to be rebuild-ed but not at this moment. And yes the rear bearings need to be replaced
|11-12-2019 10:26 AM|
The brake pumps on the top of the engine will continue to keep some fluid pressure in the system when driving and engine running. These pumps are the supply of fluid from the reservoir to the accumulators
I think these probably appear OK. However until accumulators done or doing a full pressure gauge test on the system you cannot be 100%
|11-12-2019 10:20 AM|
Originally Posted by Jim Walters View Post
And yes Steve the i will send them out to rebuild not at this moment. and yes the rear bearings need to be done also
|11-12-2019 09:00 AM|
One feature the SSi's have over the SS2's is that it has some stopping power if the engine dies due to the M/C. If the engine is running on a SS2 it will brake, but it is false hope and foolish to think it is safe to stop. It will be ok around the lot.
Have the accumulators done by an experienced shop with the right gear and experience and tested as a system, ie the pressure regulator and attached accumulator.
I send these out and don't mess with them.
There is a technique for loosening the larger supply line going to the pressure valve. Many DIY'rs end up twisting the line and having to replace it. Reading the manual is important.
Ask us here, and you will be fine.
|11-12-2019 01:53 AM|
Daniel your car looks too nice to take any risks and from the other pictures I can see you are not (we say in UK Penny Pinching) and have got all the right stuff to to the jobs.
Take Jim up on his offer. I have the special RR 'Hannibal Cage' that you are supposed to insert the spheres into before disassembly. When I saw the hole in the roof at one dealer and told the early ones before RR modified system could explode through the side of the engine blocks I sort of thought OK let someone else do it. I don't have access anyway to the nitrogen bottles to refill.
However I want to take you back now to a point Mike (Peever) made. It was very common when these rear brakes locked up for whatever reason they would overheat the rotor and hub and you would lose all the bearing grease in a puff of smoke. Might not even show signs of even losing it. Not withstanding rotor/disc warp.
Now you have stopped the rear brakes pads locking up I would still want to check if any undue heat on the rear wheels from driving.
OK catch 22, and I certainly don't challenge Jim's advice 5 pumps to warning lights is not good for driving safely. I have, perhaps stupidly, limped home a Shadow 2 that only had 3 pumps to warning lights and that is even worse than a Shadow 1 with the LP side being still available before deleted on the Shadow 11.
Think about it as it is a job you could do while accumulators being repaired, but that said yet another job where lots of prior knowledge and reading up is important.
Just hate to think after all your hard work you then find you go knacker up your rear bearings totally.
|11-11-2019 09:46 PM|
|Jim Walters||So you need to have both accumulator valves rebuilt and the sphere diaphragms replaced and the spheres charged with nitrogen. Your car is not safe to drive if the warning lamps illuminate after only 5 pumps. We can rebuild and recharge them for you. PM me for details.|
|11-11-2019 08:42 PM|
OK Steve wormed up the Shadow in this cold day in Chicago about for 35 min and pump the brakes all most every 2 min while on drive ,, they didn't lock up and all , pedal stayed the same way distance...
but like you said turn off the engine, key on and pump the brakes, well after like 5 pumps both light come up brakes so it is what it is last owner didnt take care of it to keep up with the maintains. accumulators
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