Ramp Recommendations - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Ramp Recommendations

Hi all. Just purchased a 1988 Silver Spur that needs a few jobs done when it (he/she?) gets home this week. I currently have some 3.5 ton jack stands and a trolley jack but am looking for some nice wide ramps that will hold its (his/her) weight successfully. Does anyone have any recommendations on the best ramps for the job?

Thanks all.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 08:53 AM
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Like drive-on ramps?

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 08:56 AM
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Also become familiar with the jacking points underneath. Damage can be done if the wrong spots are selected. I have a Youtube video covering this.


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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 10:23 AM
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Hi,


Not sure why you want 'wide' ramps as it would prevent good access underneath if protruding inwards.


If you are asking about the drive on type they only need to be wide enough for the tyre to sit on.


Most DIY home type usually have a SWL of around 2000kg. Given the car weight is spread roughly over each wheel (not quite depends on front/rear weight distribution) but certainly well within what you would need.


That said I NEVER ever drive up or drive off these sort of ramps. I have seen cars driven over the edge or the ramps sliding along the ground as the car tries to rise up them. Worse case I have seen them even flip up underneath and damage the body work when cars even driving off them.


I do use them however but jack each wheel up individually and then slide the ramps underneath. Again still belt and braces and place axle stands as well. Pointed end always inboard along sill length and wheel chocks slid on ramp underneath tyre.



If you get four of this type of wheel ramp and do them individually like this you can get some reasonable space underneath the car and then still jack up and remove any wheel and place an axle stand then on the ramp in place of the wheel.



When not having the luxuries of access to proper garage lifts ie 2 poster or 4 poster this is the only way I will work underneath any car especially when they are between 2-3 tonners.


Take note at all times of wraithmans jacking points though for trolley jacks again seen a lot of damaged cars underneath from using wrong areas.


All the best....and keep safe.....




Steve

Last edited by Steve E; 12-03-2019 at 10:25 AM.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses folks. These helped a lot (as did the YouTube vid Wraithman). Excited to find out what state she's in once I can get underneath properly.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 11:50 AM
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Hi Windy+,


Probably worth starting a post on what to look for as weak areas can be model specific and similar owners know the points.


Obviously for me I don't own your model but know the rear spring seats are a weak point on this model, then obvious things like any leaks, quality of hyraulic hoses and pipes, condition of brake discs and pads, exhaust mounts etc......but perhaps many more others will focus you into.


Enjoy..... and keep your back warm if lying on the ground.


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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 11:57 AM
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I don't know how I would feel about using drive on ramps on a car this heavy
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabbasi View Post
I don't know how I would feel about using drive on ramps on a car this heavy

Not so sure how I would feel about using a two poster either


http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/mechanical...r-vehicles.htm


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File Type: jpg Two poster collapsed.jpg (69.0 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by Steve E; 12-03-2019 at 02:07 PM.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 02:48 PM
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Regarding the last post. The 2 post lift pictured is a POS due to the fact the posts are columns of sheet steel that have been formed to create a channel for the lifting carriage to ride in. Also the lift appears to have released from the ground for some reason which I suspect is incorrect anchors. The only anchors to use are wedge anchors in at least 6" of cured concrete. You can google the amount of force needed to pull out a 3/4" wedge anchor ..it is insane. Also, wedge anchors should not have epoxy within the hole and the hole itself must be vacuumed for debris.

Here is a link for the Mohawk lift which are best in the business and not often found in repair shopd due to the fact they are 2.5x more expensive than others. The US Govt and many state & commercial shops use them. The important part is the "Channel" that the lift carriage rides in, in this case fork lift channel. The lift is 3/4" steel all around. No hoses or cables.


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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 07:24 PM
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I don't think that the collapse of this lift has anything to do with the construction of that lift itself. You can see that the anchors had been pulled out of the ground and looking at the slab itself, it looks like it's made from asphalt and not concrete.

In the case of channel thickness. It depends on the lifting mechanism that's used. Some use cable mechanisms that float within the channel and have no sideways force at all. In which case the channel thickness is not as important as those that use hydraulic rams on each side.

The same guy who installed this lift probably owns this caravan.


Last edited by alabbasi; 12-03-2019 at 07:27 PM.
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