1989 Turbo R Unresponsive Throttle and Sputtering on Cold Start After Battery Drain - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 1989 Turbo R Unresponsive Throttle and Sputtering on Cold Start After Battery Drain

So I've let my Turbo R sit for a few days, and was bemoaned to find that I had let the battery drain out. (That's what the battery cut-off switch is for!) The car was not sitting for more than ~5-6 days.

Luckily I had a trickle charger and some jumper cables on hand, and I was able to get the car started again via the trunk battery.

I have found that in this state, the idle has become very inconsistent, sputtering up and down and seemingly threatening to seize/stall. Pushing the gas-pedal in does not smoothly raise the RPMs in a controlled state, but seemingly does nothing (unresponsive/lumpy revving) until it spikes up to ~2-3K rpm, at which level I can hold steady and maintain. Dropping the throttle slightly/incrementally does not smoothly descend into the lower rev-range, but rather retreats back into a lumpy sputtery state.

After the engine warms for a while (3-4 min), the throttle evens out, becomes responsive again, and the idle finds its home (hovering around ~500 rpm) without threatening to stall. It seems like I have to run the engine once every day or two to keep this from happening.

I've had the car for about a month now and had no such issues as recently as a few weeks back. The vehicle was given a clean bill of health by a specialist mechanic just two weeks ago.

Any ideas? I'm unfamiliar with the battery situation in the car (the ACC battery icon at ignition position left, for example.)

In addition, it seems as though the car puts out a lot of water/condensation from the exhaust, more so than any other car I've owned. After warming up prior to a drive, there will be a small puddle (1/2-1 cup) of cold water underneath the exhaust outlet. It is not particularly cold or dry here, so I'm concerned this could be an indication of something wrong.

Is every Turbo R owner as paranoid as I am about the car? I feel like i've joined an elite club whose primary benefit is a low-level constant worry that something bad will happen to my beautiful flying B.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 07:14 AM
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First you should kkep an automatic charger plugged. I have one original R-R / Bentley if you could be interested.


Carrefull when starting the car with booster or cables, you may burn or dammage an expensive ECU.


You should perfom an autodiagnosis on the car with the system with throttle, serach on this web site links ....then check faults.


If now the car runs fine , it's ok, but do not let the battery too low, a low battery can kill electronic too, when you start the car.


Water in exhaust<depends on exterior temp. If there is a big difference, specially cold outside, even in a parkingit is normal.


Where are you located?

97 Continental R
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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It doesn't appear as though anything has shorted - all features that worked before still work.

In terms of diagnostics - since my model is 1989, It does not have the dot matrix display that later models have for diagnosis of problems. Is there an alternate way? I do not have the original manual of the vehicle.

I'm located in San Francisco, CA. It is somewhat humid here, but usually not too cold. (62F this morning)

Update: After starting the car today (used battery kill switch last night) - car whirred to life, and idled. Applying some gas initially actually caused the vehicle to almost stall,and momentarily flashed the check engine light after which, ramped the RPM up. No other warning lights. Lots of dripping and steaming from the pipes.

The vehicle was then able to idle and warm until the throttle worked appropriately.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 01:47 PM
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I strongly suggest<you have a premium battery and keep it charger. Those electronic cars require quality power. Make sure you do not have an electrical leak.

Read this and try
http://rrtechnical.info/sz/cs/tsd5069p3.pdf

And check for more info on this website
http://rrtechnical.info/


If it's humid outside, it could explain water in the exhaust, which should disappear after driving.10 miles

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yes - as stated, mine being a 1989, it does not have the dot matrix display necessary to show faults in this manner. I'm wondering if there is some alternate method.

You can see the pool of water accumulated after a short term (3-4 min) at idle in the attached image.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jean7 View Post
I strongly suggest<you have a premium battery and keep it charger. Those electronic cars require quality power. Make sure you do not have an electrical leak.

Read this and try
http://rrtechnical.info/sz/cs/tsd5069p3.pdf

And check for more info on this website
http://rrtechnical.info/


If it's humid outside, it could explain water in the exhaust, which should disappear after driving.10 miles
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 03:00 PM
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Hi Vasco
If you're in CA has your car got cats fitted? and air pump?
Mike

chassis 27650
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 03:46 PM
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http://rrtechnical.info/sz/05_sz.htm for the Technical Service Bulletins/Manuals. I downloaded all the relevant documents to my computer, as well as onto a USB stick I keep on the key chain withe Bentley keys. The TSD's are cumulative, don't restrict yourself to only 89 and up, some of the earlier material is still relevant to your car, particularly TSD 4400

for your battery issue, battery should not be discharged in a week or less from just sitting. Not that much electrical drain from the car. The stock alternator is marginal at best. Something like only 120 amps. The existing battery has to be near the end of its natural lifespan. Buy the best new battery you can find and stick the new battery in to ensure each time you start the car is not an uncertain adventure.

The Turbo R is just a car. Seems unnecessarily complicated to me in how the designers went about some things,and the electrics are primitive compared to current technology, but the only thing I have not been able to deal with on my 90 Turbo R myself has been the air conditioning as I do not have those tools. I have sorted all the electrical issues, replaced all four hydraulic accumulators, swapped out the engine mounts, replaced all the rubber hoses and lines, twin distributor caps and rotors, etc., etc. I still have a leak in the hydraulics at the reservoirs, just received all the necessary seals from IntroCar and am about to tackle that repair, once the car comes back from the air conditioning shop where it presently is for the third time this summer, bloody ****.

My observation, after only a year of ownership - the more the car is driven the better it runs. While I put the car away for our bitter winter, I am daily driving the car from roughly late April to likely mid October this year, weather dependent.

Parts are readily available. Even though I am in western Canada I have ordered most of what I have needed from IntroCar in the UK, what they could not supply I got from Flying Spares in the UK. Both have been excellent to deal with. Other stuff, like the big under car Bosch inline fuel filter and the Bosch fuel pump are readily available from most parts suppliers local to me, and I have had a really good set of spark plug wires made by Magnecor. https://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm

Have fun with your car. After you put a new battery in it, then put a bunch of fuel injector cleaner in and think about taking the car out for the proverbial "Italian Tune Up", as many full throttle uphill runs as you can manage without getting yourself arrested. Warm the car up to normal operating temperature. Foot flat to the floor from just off idle to full revs......... repeatedly. Worked wonders for my car anyway. Your decision of course........ I anything is marginal on the car, these full throttle runs should be when it breaks, and if it breaks it needs to be fixed anyway, might as well get it over with, just my own opinion of course.

No idea about the excess moisture from the tail pipe on start up. my car does not do that. The only thing that comes to mind is a possible head gasket(s)/coolant leak, but if that were the case you would also expect to see increasing amounts of white smoke/steam from the exhaust as the car is driven.

Paul LeClair

Paul M. LeClair
1990 Bentley Turbo R
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 03:52 PM
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Not worried by the water on the picture as there is no white smoke.
Those cars are made to be driven on road, not iddling in parking or traffic!!!!


Sure that if you drive it on a road there will be no water.
Just condensation, I am used to it in France, depending on weather , temperature, humidity....


Drive her as Paul says.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice -

I've recently taken the vehicle on a few ~60 mile round trips and had no serious mechanical issues.

The bogging down to near-stall at cold idle on throttle is my main concern. This was not happening before.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 06:55 PM
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My Silver Shadow drips water from the exhaust just like yours for a few minutes after initial start-up from cold, It's just condensation from the exhaust as isn't something to worry about, all cars do it but because the RR has a big V8 with twin exhaust pipes there's more moisture in the exhaust system than what you'd find in smaller engine cars. Once the exhaust warms up the moisture dripping decreases. The symptoms your experiencing with the poor idling when cold could be caused by a vacuum leak at one of the hoses on the inlet manifold which would be an easy fix if that is the case.
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