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Survey/Opinion Rocker cover gaskets

16K views 47 replies 10 participants last post by  spiritofx 
#1 ·
Replacing my gaskets soon and would like opinions using the original cork or updating to the rubber with new distance spacers. Is the rubber seal round or square?
Thanks!
 
#2 ·
New "rubber" seal. Same basic shape as the cork, just a different material. Follow the torque tightening figures to the letter, most grossly overtighten.

Make sure that your flame trap is clean and check it once every several years.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Dear Brian,

I recently studied this topic and went through the remakable document from the RR Australian forum

http://rrtechnical.info/sz/bulletins/v8rockergasket.pdf

and believe an addendum should be done.

When you replace the original rocker cover cork seal by the rubber ones, some parts need to be replaced by others, as specified in the above document..
But, under the original cap nuts, which remain the original ones, you definitely need to add a washer joint " XB 1079 " per cap nut, at least on my Continetal R and I would say on all models.
This is not specified in the above document and remain indeed essential, otherwise the work is not done accroding to Bentley requirment.

You could check on a technical draw from Bentley what I mean, you will see that 6 Washer Jonts XB 1079 R are necessary when replacing cork seals buy the rubber ones.
With the original cork selas, you are not supposed to have those 6 washer joints XB 1079 R, and in any case, would you have them, they should be replaced as they are in aluminium.
But they do not appear on original Bentley draw with cork seals.

I let you report my comments to the original author.

Thank You
Jean
 
#4 ·
I have just replaced mine with the original cork - I smear a very light amount of clear silicone along the bottom edge of the gaskets and find them oil tight - Cork gaskets naturally expand and contract with oil and temperature due to the nature of the beast - if your gaskets are old but intact you will find that a smear of silicone will seal the job!
 
#7 ·
I would definitely recommend the silicone over the cork, particularly if you intend to run full synthetic oil (or even conventional-synthetic blend) in your car.

For Jean: That document is not ever going to be updated as it is the straight service bulletin from Crewe, tweaked just ever so slightly to bring attention to it. I've attached what comes straight out of IETIS.
 

Attachments

#12 · (Edited)
Brian, I go in details but those cars are details.
I think the IETIS document as a mistake.
On the board page 1, rubber gasket reference is UV 11306PA which is wrong as on the map it is UV 11305PA.

UV 11306PA is the bond isolator

One more mistake on official Crewe documents....

More interesting, the australian document has corrrected this factory mistake .

Jean
 
#8 ·
Also, with regard to leaks from the valve cover gaskets, do not fail to take into account that your flame trap could be clogged. This is a very-often neglected (including by me) component, which is well documented in this thread I started a while back on the RROC-Australia Discussion Forums: Flame Trap on Oil Filler - The Need to Clean It

There is also a related post with one additional picture is worth a thousand words related the same on SZ cars on these forums: http://www.rollsroyceforums.com/for...80/2794-flame-trap-oil-filler-need-clean.html
 
#10 ·
When I powdercoated my covers I replaced the gaskets with rubber and the new distance bits and fastener seals with no problems. I used black sticky gasket maker in spots to hold the new seal in place with the weight of the cover on them the night before and installation was a breeze. Covers are shown in my pics.
 
#14 ·
I would add a last recommandation on this topic, not mentionned on any document.
If you decide to replace those cork selas by rubber selals :

- you need 6 Washer joints XB 1079 R , as writtent above
- you should replace too the 2 traingle seals UE 75131, as also in this case the material has been improved.
they are accessible during the job and cold leak too, specilly the original one
original one were in "Vellumoid paper" , new replacing ones in "élastomère"

Jean
 
#16 ·
Hello, Jean

There may be an innocent misunderstanding over use of the word "over."

Brian could intending that word as an equivalent of "preference." Your interpretation looks like it may be as "on top of," like toothpaste on a brush. Maybe the correct answer is both!

I've never considered running synthetic oil in my Shadow because of the age of the engine and the tolerances it was built to. Had it been a 4-cam, 4-valve, turbocharged V-6 motor, my opinion might be different.
 
#18 ·
There may be an innocent misunderstanding over use of the word "over."

Brian could intending that word as an equivalent of "preference."
In the prior post I definitely was using "over" as in "my preference rather than". I recommend the new silicone seals as my preference rather than the cork.

If one is applying silicone over (on top of) and/or under the cork matrix gasket one is effectively trying to create (and, if done correctly, actually does create) an alternate silicone seal. I'd rather not have the mess were I ever to have to take this apart and given the "perpetual pliability" of silicone rubber I would imagine that it's quite likely that the new silicone rubber seal could be reused if you had to remove the valve cover at some later date for any reason (but I may be wrong on that).
 
#17 ·
I am recommending the new "rubber" seal, which is not rubber (and I hate when people use that term for heat resistant silicone) but is a silicone seal. Anyone who's ever used a heat resistant spatula or a silicone oven mitt (I cook) knows that silicone is extremely heat resistant and stays pliable for decades (probably forever).

I don't recommend the cork seal, even with RTV silicone sealant since a full silicone seal is available. If one chooses to use synthetic or synthetic blend oils (I do not, at least not in an SY era car) these can (and do) creep much more easily than conventional oil and if there is even the slightest imperfection in the cork matrix it will find a way through it.

There's a reason why, generally, cork gasketing material has largely, but not entirely, fallen out of favor. If you're going to need a seal that's large and pre-shaped for a given application if silicone is available that's the way I'd go.

Others clearly differ. I'm simply stating what my thinking is on the matter.
 
#21 ·
Thank youKev, you understood my doubts/missunderstanding.

As far as I understood, Wraithman is using cork and putting some silicon rubber over the edge.
When I read Brian stating silicon over the cork, I thought too he was putting silicon over the cork.

Now I understand, Brian, is also recommanding silicon seal instead of cork.

Flying spares has both, silicon and cork., budget is reasonnable with all parts.

Wraithman, would you have a link for replacement parts ?

Many thanks to 3 of you
Jean
 
#22 ·
Just to clear things up. After powdercoating my rocker covers I chose to use SILICONE GASKETS on my 1980 Wraith with the new distance pieces and bolt seals.. Use Google and search for Replacement Parts.com Due to the storm, they are located in GA (?) ordering and shipping may be sketchy.
 
#25 ·
Since you are in France, it will be cheaper to buy from Flying Spares.
Or maybe even Brabo. Those in Europe have many more "convenient options" when it comes to Rolls-Royce and Bentley parts than we in the United States do. And until Brexit, the ability to easily ship goods across borders sans customs, etc.
 
#27 ·
In France we have somebody I know for about 30 years, my first Shadow and he is tne number one in my eyes.

www.sauzeau.com
This company has been in the RR & Bentley Parts, Repair, Restoration & Other Resources Compilation, as well as Replacement Parts, as well as Flying Spares, as well as Brabo, as well as . . .

All for a very long time now. I only wish Sazeau had an English translation of their pages. It would certainly increase their business, particularly since we're talking about Rolls-Royce, the quintessential English car!
 
#28 ·
I think I have an idea whay his website is only in french, but I will not reply for him.
In any case, he is well known since many years from all serious professionals and he appreciate working with them and website is not necessary in that case.
Working with private personn is not so easy as it seems, specially he is nearly alone.
He has many private customers which are there since the begening of his activity, and his adress is going from collectors to collectors, which is the best way, and that no website could exceed.

In any case, in France he is the only one with such a knowledge for pré war and post war models, including very rare spare partts.
Also I thnik he is one of the rare professional in France who can buy direclty from Crewe.

Jean
 
#29 ·
Be aware that regardless of the material you use you must replace the square copper strips,these are earthing strips for the rocker cover to chassis - if you leave them off as some have done the starter motor does not perform properly and the ignition voltage spark is reduced
 
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