What parts to refurbish/replace - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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What parts to refurbish/replace

Evening gents.

I've been glossing over my S1 and have been drawing up a list.

What would you refurb/replace on a car that has sat for over 9years?

The bodywork is shocking, but I'll be working on that.

Mechanically anything I should look into.



1977 Silver Shadow 1 SRH 26532 - seychelles Blue - Awaiting a full restoration.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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I'll also add.

Due to future circumstances it's possible she'll be my only car, so it needs to be up to par.


1977 Silver Shadow 1 SRH 26532 - seychelles Blue - Awaiting a full restoration.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 05:34 PM
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I would flush and bleed the hydraulic brake/height control system and replace all the flexi hoses. It would probably be wise to also clean and reseal the brake callipers checking the pistons for corrosion. You may or may not need to replace all the seals in the various brake hydraulic components e.g., brake pumps, accumulator control valves, g-valve, height control valves & rams, height control solenoid and clean out & reseal the 2 restrictor valves on the rear crossmember. On a car that has been parked up for so long it would be wise to remove the engine sump and clean it out and clean the filter gauze to the oil pump. Automatic transmission fluid will need to be replaced along with the ATF filter and differential oil changed along with the oil in the trunnions on the drive shafts. Wheel bearings may need to be replaced or at least cleaned and regreased. The coolant will need to be flushed and replaced. If the headlamps are original sealed beam units they may have gone dull and need replacement. The list can be endless, it's a bit like asking how long is a piece of string, a lot would depend on how the car was stored.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 07:56 PM
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Is this "S" or a "T"
1950's car
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 08:22 PM
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Hi Henry, As you know the Shadow is known to have a few areas, when left sitting, even for a few years, will require a thorough examination and not necessarily a full blown overhaul. The brakes/hydraulics, as you know, are well documented and should be one of your first areas of focus. Safety, with any road vehicle, is paramount and this is part of that area of focus.
After this, think about reliability, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and things that may stop you dead in your tracks. Clean all fuse contacts, unplug connectors at relays to clean, un-do visible ground hubs and clean ( locations in the FSM). Good grounds are just as imported as the B+ of a connection and often overlooked.
Check or replace coolant hoses. Even the burst of a small hose can ruin your day.

Bodywork and other cosmetics are not reliability items and come last.

Enjoy and good luck!

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 06:00 AM
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Hi Henry,

Much would depend on how/where/why the car has been layed up in the first place.

Many old barn finds were cars that were initially layed up as repairs were going to be more costly than the car was worth....... so why has the car been stored up and not used in the first place would be good to know..

Was it also during lay up either moved on its wheels or even engine started or any other maintenence been done while stored. For sure if not ever moved at all consider your tyres will be flat spotted, and battery knackered.

Then you have to consider has this car got sentimental value to you, and then what is going to be your long term life style. ie will the car just be used locally for going down to the shops or church on Sundays or will you maybe travelling longer distances or abroad.

Then the next question is how big is your 'pension' and how much of your kids inheritance do you really want to spend on the car both to bring up to safe usage and maintenance thereafter. Money well spent though IMHO rather than the tax man getting it.

For me, absolutely the very first thing would be body structure condition and I most certainly would be having a thorough inspection of the bodywork/chassis/cills/arches before I even considered spending a penny. Strip out carpets front and rear to make sure floor pans are good too. If you are expecting to have the car as an all year round car on UK roads it needs to be good metal.

However the key for any owner is also a question of what are your own personal skills and the items you are happy to do yourself and those areas where you are going to have to pay others.

It all depends really what you are starting with. Unless you have some idea or more facts to offer I would certainly not even attempt to start the car and beware of any local garage that will come along in HOPE and just jump start it.

I follow a long detailed particular procedure for testing out any old RR/B that has not been used or started up for years. Even after that though much can still be found faulty.

Let us know more what you are starting out with.

I looked over a beautiful Shadow1 last week for a friend that is now purchasing it. It was £15995 and we ended up paying £15k as cash buy. The car is near perfect and been well looked after. Had he not been a friend in all honesty I would have bought the car myself as it needs £zero to be spent on it.

Another guy has just spent over £25000 on a Shadow 1 body paint repairs, and now trying to sell it for £45k....... it is on FS cars for sale...............no chance

Two cars of my 7 classic car collection will never see a profit in value during my lifetime from what they have cost me to restore, where as one car that cost me £645 nearly 50 years ago and has had probably no more over the years than £5000-£10,000 spent on it is today worth £90,000+

The RR/B S1 T1 have crept up a little in value but just not realising a sound investment yet to spend too much money on IMHO. I have looked after my SS1 now for over 40 years but more out of love as even doing all the work myself she has been a cash cow really rather than an angel.

All the best

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 09:01 AM
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hi there
first, a good inspection is key. so you know before you start just how much and how long its going to take.check for corrosion in the rear trailing arms, sills wings etc.your are going to have to change tyres,a full 96000-mile brake rubber change all oils etc.if you can start it has it got any noise's tappets etc.this would be the minimum work needed and get you an M.o.T.

if it was me and I was going to do this I would go for the full overhaul total strip. remove the front and rear subframes strip clean replace all worn parts. strip engine and gearbox and check for wear etc replace liner seals etc. cost for this book hours would be about 170 hours parts well a guess 15/20k bodywork on top and cleaning and blacking on top
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 09:42 AM
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I totally agree........... albeit we don't need MOT's now in UK for these old gals. For some owners that really look after their classic cars it is actually a help. Statutory Off Road Notification (SORN) was a pain if the dates did not work to get a car MOT'd in time especially when we spent a lot of time abroad.

I do worry though being on the roads for the ones that don't do regular maintenance and for the cost of the yearly inspection I would always advise to get one done.

I was horrified to learn in France now the Controle Technique (MOT) will even fail a car with signs of even a small oil leak. Two of my other UK classic cars I thought oil leaks came as OE factory standard from day one

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all.

She was driven to an MOT station.

Then driven back, and that was it!

She has been in the families ownership since 2002.

Just before she was parked, she had new brake lines new fluid and some other things.

She was parked in early 2010.

I've started her periodically to ensure she doesn't seize, the engine runs well, nice and quiet.

Gearbox was rebuilt in 1999 it has around 7k on it.

The front floor pans are rotten but the rears and boot floor/tank are like new.

Rear and front suspension mounting areas are like new.

Handbrake is seized off, the car rolls ha! But the handbrake handle doesn't move, not risking yanking it!

Brakes are feirce they stop the car instantly the pedal feels good

The rear suspension still self levels.

Bodywork is shocking, she was "restored" in the 90s but they used filler and arches off of scrap cars, so the work looked ok a few years ago, but now the filler has fallen out and the steel has rotted through.

The interior from the front seats back is great.

But the dashboard and front carpets have suffered, the carpets have disintegrated.

Sentiment makes for one of the reasons I want to restore her, I remember being driven around in her when I was a wee lad 18 now.

Loved the Air Con and the smell.

The 2 things I remember vividly, oddly it still smells the same! Also reminds me of a much better time, things ain't great at the moment, and she was/is a haven of peace in a troubled world

She was generally reliable drove everywhere, but eventually she just sat as her body deteriorated in a matter of months. And the fuel pump failed

The bodywork id like to have a crack at,

Interior is what I'm most concerned about, I doubt blue SS carpets are easy to find?! Picnic tables need restoring too!

My aim is crazy in retrospect,

A SS as a daily car may seem insane but I've always wanted a nice cruiser to float around in, and she just sits there.

So why not.

Running costs are a thought but I've been looking into fitting a 120 litre LPG tank where the spare wheel is mounted. A single point system would work well.

And from what I've read sitting doesn't do them any good so surely driving it can only be beneficial!

I want to drive across Europe sometime, ideally move over there.

A nice place in the mountains of eastern Europe with a SILVER SHADOW parked outside is a daydream ive been having for a while.

Cheers Gents.

1977 Silver Shadow 1 SRH 26532 - seychelles Blue - Awaiting a full restoration.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 03:31 PM
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Hi Henry,

I did look at your profile to see what year your car was and saw you were 18 and a trainee mechanic.

So your car is in good hands and good to know regularly run despite not on the road........at 18 I was a young Trainee Naval Officer being taught all about SeaCat missiles. I bought my first car then a second hand e-Type and still have it today.

So did the car then FAIL the MOT

I have to be honest I spent many early years chasing rust around bodywork and always swore one day I would have cars and no more bad bodywork.............ever

Water gets into the front footwells either through the windscreen, plenum drain blockage, or the top of the front door where there should be a small seal pad but most cars I see don't have them fitted. Front floor pans can be replaced and carpet sets are available all colours but not quite the original quality. All outer arches and repair panels can be got but the replacement parts can be very costly.

How deep really is that sentimental value. These cars are not too expensive to buy in reasonable condition and yours appears it will be taking a lot of your time and money. Those hours doing mechanical jobs maybe for others you could earn well. Strangely breaking up the car for parts can yield very good returns too and there is a point that decision has to be taken seriously.............OK easy for me to say but I could never take on that sort of restoration on the body shell.

I admire your enthusiasm though for classic cars.

All the best

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